I have a 7 hour drive tomorrow, and my rear disc conversion was just completed today.

The problem is that the driver side brake seems to catch one section of the rotor, making a sound once every rotation. I put new rotors and pads on, and still no change. I found that when messing around with the caliper position, the sound would go away..but when the bolts for the section holding the pads in are tightened, the sound comes back. Annoying, but not the end of the world.

The real problem is the passenger side. The cylinder engages the pads pretty tightly on the rotor, and i need to push harder than I should to get it to rotate. I couldnt even get the new pads on because the c-clamp broke when i tried pushing the piston in (it didnt budge).

Now what could the culprit be here? It's a 98 EX coupe with 99 Si parts (prop valve, lines, trailing arms). MCs are supposed to be the same. I would think the problems on both sides are related. I would guess that the piston is engaging too much. I've heard that this can be caused by having the wrong prop valve, but I got it off the donor car!! Same goes for lines (not the lines going under the car to the prop valve however..but I havn't heard that those need to be changed for the swap..)!!

I am thinking that maybe for the trip I should try to disable the passenger side brake to prevent lock up at highway speeds.. thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any help!!

 

how do you disable your brakes? and it may be possible that you have a frozen piston in your caliper on the passenger side

 

First of all don't use a c-clamp to collapse the caliper, the piston has to be spun as it is collapsed back into the caliper housing...screwed back in so to speak. It's this way because of the parking brake screw inside the caliper. You may have messed it up already (hopefully not) but if it's still ok then find a way to twist the caliper piston as you push it back in, several companies make tools for this. Anyway, get the pistons all the way in and make sure the groove in the piston will line up with the raised boss on the back of the brake pad (if your pads have them) You should be ok after this, just pump your brakes good and make sure your parking brake works.

 

i donno, i was just thinking of taking the caliper off or something. probably not possible like that without plugging the brake line somehow..just pissed off me thinking of half-assed solutions!!

how can u "unfreeze" a piston? blow torch??

 

Oh ****. I figure they were done like the front calipers. I don't think they are messed though.

Sorry, but what is this raised boss? hmmm the groove? the piston has 2 grooves doesnt it? in a cross?

What do u mean by ok. As in it shouldnt lock up like it does? I don't understand why this would happen in the first place though..I mean why would this solve my locking up?

 

ok i am reading my haynes manual as i shouldve in the first place. i will figure out getting the piston backed up and the new pads in (they use needle nose pliers to rotate it).

i hope this fixes the problem, but i dont understand how it would!? the brake was acting up even before i tried installing new pads and rotor..

 

considering its a conversion im guessing your parts arent new and are either used or almost done with to begin with.
My solution to you is, spend some money and save your self headaches and prevent damage to your conversion components.

just go buy new calipers cause yours are prolly seized.
buy new rotors cause yours are probally heat warped.
buy new pads cause everything else is new.
Reassemble.

250$ ur golden

 

Some brake pads have something like a raised pin stamped into the back that has to fit in the groove in the caliper pistons. If the back of you pads are smooth don't worry about it.

 

I see alot of problems with this style of caliper seizing, not just hondas but other makes as well. Worst case you may have to replace them. Also check to make double sure your parking brake cables aren't binding or causing the brakes to drag in any way.

 

well the e-brake cables arent hooked up yet..they are just in position for when i adjust em tomorrow..

new pads.
new rotors.

i guess i'll research how much calipers will run me..damn..i'm having trouble turning the piston with pliers and any other tools i can find. donno if its seized or if i need a better tool

 

I don't know about your part of the world but around here you can pick up reman calipers for about $25 each but they carry a hefty core charge so you have to make sure you get your old ones turned back in.

 

u didint have to repost here after reading my thread, u dont need to look at ten more opinions, u need to read my post again and do the work, dont post until u do that.