should i be concerned about my rods when building my motor??
OK here's the setup that i'm putting together:
a6 block and crank
z6 head and hg
pm7 pistons
?? rods
arp head studs and rod bolts
probably a skunk 2 stage1 cam... but let's assume a stock z6 cam for now
si trans
light weight fly wheel and at least a stage one clutch
pretty much stock redline, will get a GOOD dyno tune as soon as engine is put together
should i be concerned about my rods being too puny for this set up? i trust my self to assemble the engine properly, but as my uncle put it, i've seen rods just as big in a lawn mower... they are so tiny!! lol
but seriously i don't want to get this all together, get it running good the bam rod goes bye bye as i'm going through the gears.
or is this one of those... "if you have to question it then replace them" sort of things... i was thinking ls rods w the shim kit if people suggest new rods, since i've heard they're good for at least 200 hp??
thanks for the help guys!!
a6 block and crank
z6 head and hg
pm7 pistons
?? rods
arp head studs and rod bolts
probably a skunk 2 stage1 cam... but let's assume a stock z6 cam for now
si trans
light weight fly wheel and at least a stage one clutch
pretty much stock redline, will get a GOOD dyno tune as soon as engine is put together
should i be concerned about my rods being too puny for this set up? i trust my self to assemble the engine properly, but as my uncle put it, i've seen rods just as big in a lawn mower... they are so tiny!! lol
but seriously i don't want to get this all together, get it running good the bam rod goes bye bye as i'm going through the gears.
or is this one of those... "if you have to question it then replace them" sort of things... i was thinking ls rods w the shim kit if people suggest new rods, since i've heard they're good for at least 200 hp??
thanks for the help guys!!
If you are going to put a decent amount of money into the build, why not just spend the extra 300 bucks to get a set of eagle rods? Seems like cheap insurance to me. This will also save you from buying ARP rod bolts as eagle rods come with them already.
I'v ran a PM7 setup on a stock a6 before and never had any issues with it really, but this was before I knew better lol.
Tunertoys used to have some good rods for a respectable price, however, they are now out of business.
I'v ran a PM7 setup on a stock a6 before and never had any issues with it really, but this was before I knew better lol.
Tunertoys used to have some good rods for a respectable price, however, they are now out of business.
If your are staying at stock redline there is no real reason to upgrade your rods at all. If you want peace of mind get the ARP bolts BUT the shops by me charge $20 to $25 a rod to have them installed and line bored. Also you add the cost of rod bolts and you are almost half way to having forged rods...
The down side being most forged rods I have seen for Hondas come with a bushed small end. If you got them and they are floating you would have to have a groove machined into the piston so lock rings could be utilized. So now it becomes a even greater price and then you will be close to buying new forged pistons while you are at it.
Basically stay all stock because your build is not huge by any means and if you are worried put in ARP bolts.
The down side being most forged rods I have seen for Hondas come with a bushed small end. If you got them and they are floating you would have to have a groove machined into the piston so lock rings could be utilized. So now it becomes a even greater price and then you will be close to buying new forged pistons while you are at it.
Basically stay all stock because your build is not huge by any means and if you are worried put in ARP bolts.
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From: "That one guy with that one car" Kennewick WA
Back in 08 I had a turbo zc with 250whp stock block and head. I have alot of faith in d series. Still running today!!. You should be fine.
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