ELD (Electronic Load Detector) discussion | 96-00 chassis
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ok i would like to make a thread to end all of the other threads about ELD problems, because every thread i clicked on didnt really give me an exact answer.
dilemma: i know this is a common problem on many civics, even my friends does it too. anyway, when im driving and i let off the gas, the lights go to full brightness, and when i step on the gas, they dim down, then once i get past 3000 rpm they go back up to full brightness, i am 90% sure this is the ELD. i replaced my alternator a few months back think that was the problem.
now is the ELD for 96-90 civics attached to the back of the under-dash fuse panel or is it part of the under-hood fuse box?
ive been doing some research tonight and have seen some people post some solutions.
- one person said there is a wire you can un-pin from the ecu harness and it will fix this problem
- i have seen a few other people posting about bypassing the ELD altogether, is this even possible?
now i also read something about converting to obd1 from obd2
- does converting from obd2a to obd1 sometimes cause this? i read maybe a faulty conversion harness could cause this. (doesnt sound too likely)
if ANY of you out there have ANY valuable information please post and i can add it to this post, im just tired of see my lights dimming everytime i drive the car at night, and i just want to find an "end-all" solution.
EDIT: i know there was a TSB from honda about a problem similar to this, if not this same exact problem, if anyone could post any info about that TSB, it would be GREATLY appreciated
dilemma: i know this is a common problem on many civics, even my friends does it too. anyway, when im driving and i let off the gas, the lights go to full brightness, and when i step on the gas, they dim down, then once i get past 3000 rpm they go back up to full brightness, i am 90% sure this is the ELD. i replaced my alternator a few months back think that was the problem.
now is the ELD for 96-90 civics attached to the back of the under-dash fuse panel or is it part of the under-hood fuse box?
ive been doing some research tonight and have seen some people post some solutions.
- one person said there is a wire you can un-pin from the ecu harness and it will fix this problem
- i have seen a few other people posting about bypassing the ELD altogether, is this even possible?
now i also read something about converting to obd1 from obd2
- does converting from obd2a to obd1 sometimes cause this? i read maybe a faulty conversion harness could cause this. (doesnt sound too likely)
if ANY of you out there have ANY valuable information please post and i can add it to this post, im just tired of see my lights dimming everytime i drive the car at night, and i just want to find an "end-all" solution.
EDIT: i know there was a TSB from honda about a problem similar to this, if not this same exact problem, if anyone could post any info about that TSB, it would be GREATLY appreciated
Last edited by red96civicex; Sep 8, 2009 at 10:01 PM.
The ELD is built into the under hood fuse box.
Do you have an ELD CEL code? Do you have any CEL codes? Is 7.5A fuse #15 under the dash blown?
Is the dash charge/battery light on when you are driving?
Your problem sounds more like a bad voltage regulator in the alternator.
Do you have an ELD CEL code? Do you have any CEL codes? Is 7.5A fuse #15 under the dash blown?
Is the dash charge/battery light on when you are driving?
Your problem sounds more like a bad voltage regulator in the alternator.
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like i stated above i replaced the alternator a few months back thinking that was the problem but it didnt fix it.
EDIT: there is NO battery light on while driving, its nothing out of the ordinary, no weird lights or anything, just dimming lights, and all the lights on the car dim, outside & inside.
Is the alternator belt good and tight? If so, take the car to an auto parts store like AutoZone, where they will test the alternator free of charge. Some of those rebuilt alternators come bad right out of the box.
Did you check fuse #15 with a multimeter. Also try replacing it with a known good fuse.
Does the CEL work?
Is the battery ground wire clean and tight?
Did you check fuse #15 with a multimeter. Also try replacing it with a known good fuse.
Does the CEL work?
Is the battery ground wire clean and tight?
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Is the alternator belt good and tight? If so, take the car to an auto parts store like AutoZone, where they will test the alternator free of charge. Some of those rebuilt alternators come bad right out of the box.
Did you check fuse #15 with a multimeter. Also try replacing it with a known good fuse.
Does the CEL work?
Did you check fuse #15 with a multimeter. Also try replacing it with a known good fuse.
Does the CEL work?
and yes the CEL light works.
EDIT: took all the grounds off last month, cleaned them up, made sure they were touching metal, and re-installed them, didnt fix the problem.
ive been researching this for quite some time and fixed everything on my car i thought could be causing the problem...but yet, the problem is still there.
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my next step is to replace the ELD itself, and since its part of the under-hood fuse box i guess im going to have to get a whole new unit...
You would indeed need to replace the entire hood fuse box. My recommendation would be that you delay this purchase because a bad ELD is a very rare cause for the type of problem you are having. I'd first have the alternator tested and also test all of the alternator wires and connections. Let us know how it turns out.
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ok so im gonna go and get the alternator tested tomorrow at advanced auto...but how can i check the other alternator "wires and connections"?
You would unplug the hood fuse box connectors, relevant ECU connectors, and alternator connectors and then check all of the alternator and ELD wires for opens and shorts using a multimeter. But first have the alternator tested.
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i didnt test it...advanced auto parts did. they told me to turn my high beams and heater fan on...i couldnt see if the lights were dimming or not cause it was light outside
Does your alternator have a lifetime warranty?
I guess your options are (1) to replace the alternator because it would be free, (2) to multimeter check the alternator system wires, or (3) to replace the under-hood fuse box/ELD.
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well im eventually going to replace the whole unit...
if anyone who has replaced their fuse box because of this problem please post up!
if anyone who has replaced their fuse box because of this problem please post up!
Im having this problem to, if the ELD is bad, would it have anything to do with sending power back to the battey from the alternator?
i'll post but i have a eg so yea, i got cel 20.... ELD, im guna replace my fuse box cuz since i got that cel my radio hasnt been working, and to the OP is your idle like really low, cuz if it is it could be your alternator always running which is not good for the life of it
^^ batallic, FYI Canadian 5G 92-95 Civics do not have an ELD, AFAIK. (Not shown on the wiring diagrams.) It's possible, of course, that you don't have a CDM Civic.






