koni/GC VS function form type 2's
On the koni/GC setup... what would be the best spring rate setup for a daily driver / road course car... Thanks for all your guy's help..
Last edited by maximusmda; Sep 9, 2009 at 12:14 AM. Reason: new question...
ok i appoligize... i was just in a hurry to post while i was at work... and i posted somthing i wanted the answer too.. maybe you can help me with a better question.. cause i obviously got my answer... Koni/GC seems to be the general choice.... what spring rates would be a good choice? for a DD/ great handling/ spirited driving... Again.. sorry for the stupid question..
oh it's okay. the koni gc combo is one of the best for the money. what tires are you going to run and what chassis? if i knew the frame and the tire i could give you a rate suggestion.
right now i'm not sure what tire i'm ultimatly going to be running but at the moment i am running khumo ast's.. and it's an EJ6... (98 civic DX coupe)
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if you stay with all season tires 350/300 rates will be a good choice. if you buy 8" springs for all 4 corners it makes switching those rates front to back easy. ground control often sells 7"springs for the rear but they are completely unnecessary unless your goal is dragging the car on the ground.
if you move to a hard compound performance tire like the yoke s drive you can take the rates to 400/350 and if you upgrade to a real summer tire like the kumho xs or dunlop star spec you can run either 450/400 or 500/450
if anyone reading this is wondering why tires have an impact on the chosen rate...here it is: if you run a 500/450 rate with kumho ast's you will hate your car quickly. body roll will be virtually gone everywhere and cornering will get downright scary if you aren't 100% on alert all the time. the lack of any chassis movement will promote snap handling where you're more or less ripping a corner and bam, tires are sliding with little to no warning. with a sticky tire like the XS these rates are very good. this tire has enough grip to give you some chassis movement and communicate back what's going on with the tire. if you were driving a fully warmed up R compound you would think these rates were way too soft. it all depends on the traction. all springs really do is help roll resistance. at the same time stiff rates promote a traction DECREASE since the suspension will not track as well as softer rates allow.
if you move to a hard compound performance tire like the yoke s drive you can take the rates to 400/350 and if you upgrade to a real summer tire like the kumho xs or dunlop star spec you can run either 450/400 or 500/450
if anyone reading this is wondering why tires have an impact on the chosen rate...here it is: if you run a 500/450 rate with kumho ast's you will hate your car quickly. body roll will be virtually gone everywhere and cornering will get downright scary if you aren't 100% on alert all the time. the lack of any chassis movement will promote snap handling where you're more or less ripping a corner and bam, tires are sliding with little to no warning. with a sticky tire like the XS these rates are very good. this tire has enough grip to give you some chassis movement and communicate back what's going on with the tire. if you were driving a fully warmed up R compound you would think these rates were way too soft. it all depends on the traction. all springs really do is help roll resistance. at the same time stiff rates promote a traction DECREASE since the suspension will not track as well as softer rates allow.
Last edited by racebum; Sep 9, 2009 at 12:16 PM.
if you stay with all season tires 350/300 rates will be a good choice. if you buy 8" springs for all 4 corners it makes switching those rates front to back easy. ground control often sells 7"springs for the rear but they are completely unnecessary unless your goal is dragging the car on the ground.
if you move to a hard compound performance tire like the yoke s drive you can take the rates to 400/350 and if you upgrade to a real summer tire like the kumho xs or dunlop star spec you can run either 450/400 or 500/450
if anyone reading this is wondering why tires have an impact on the chosen rate...here it is: if you run a 500/450 rate with kumho ast's you will hate your car quickly. body roll will be virtually gone everywhere and cornering will get downright scary if you aren't 100% on alert all the time. the lack of any chassis movement will promote snap handling where you're more or less ripping a corner and bam, tires are sliding with little to no warning. with a sticky tire like the XS these rates are very good. this tire has enough grip to give you some chassis movement and communicate back what's going on with the tire. if you were driving a fully warmed up R compound you would think these rates were way too soft. it all depends on the traction. all springs really do is help roll resistance. at the same time stiff rates promote a traction DECREASE since the suspension will not track as well as softer rates allow.
if you move to a hard compound performance tire like the yoke s drive you can take the rates to 400/350 and if you upgrade to a real summer tire like the kumho xs or dunlop star spec you can run either 450/400 or 500/450
if anyone reading this is wondering why tires have an impact on the chosen rate...here it is: if you run a 500/450 rate with kumho ast's you will hate your car quickly. body roll will be virtually gone everywhere and cornering will get downright scary if you aren't 100% on alert all the time. the lack of any chassis movement will promote snap handling where you're more or less ripping a corner and bam, tires are sliding with little to no warning. with a sticky tire like the XS these rates are very good. this tire has enough grip to give you some chassis movement and communicate back what's going on with the tire. if you were driving a fully warmed up R compound you would think these rates were way too soft. it all depends on the traction. all springs really do is help roll resistance. at the same time stiff rates promote a traction DECREASE since the suspension will not track as well as softer rates allow.
you might like 400/350 more if you get pretty low. or at least it will keep you from scarping. the real upgrade you need are tires. if you took two integras and put koni/gc on one with ast tires and left the other bone stock with XS tires the XS equipped car would be faster.
as far as swapping rates. well, a stiffer rear spring is useful in autocross, sometimes in road racing and generally not on the street. for the majority of street setup a slightly stiffer front spring and large rear sway bar get the car pretty damn close to neutral. more spring out back promotes oversteer which is useful autocrossing but not really the best way to set up a street car
as far as swapping rates. well, a stiffer rear spring is useful in autocross, sometimes in road racing and generally not on the street. for the majority of street setup a slightly stiffer front spring and large rear sway bar get the car pretty damn close to neutral. more spring out back promotes oversteer which is useful autocrossing but not really the best way to set up a street car
you might like 400/350 more if you get pretty low. or at least it will keep you from scarping. the real upgrade you need are tires. if you took two integras and put koni/gc on one with ast tires and left the other bone stock with XS tires the XS equipped car would be faster.
as far as swapping rates. well, a stiffer rear spring is useful in autocross, sometimes in road racing and generally not on the street. for the majority of street setup a slightly stiffer front spring and large rear sway bar get the car pretty damn close to neutral. more spring out back promotes oversteer which is useful autocrossing but not really the best way to set up a street car
as far as swapping rates. well, a stiffer rear spring is useful in autocross, sometimes in road racing and generally not on the street. for the majority of street setup a slightly stiffer front spring and large rear sway bar get the car pretty damn close to neutral. more spring out back promotes oversteer which is useful autocrossing but not really the best way to set up a street car
the car i had before i had tein ss-p's on it with ST front and rear sway bars with energy bushings Skunk2 lca's and camber kits... i really like the way it rode.. it was a little to stiff (on the stiffest setting) for me on the streets... but all in all it was a pretty good ride...so you think 400/350 would be good for me.. i guess i'm going to have to try it out.. and if it's to stiff i guess i could trade someone that wanted stiffer spring rates huh?
tein ss is 450/350 more or less so 400/350 should be right in the ballpark. the rest of your ideas with the brace are good, the st rear bar is also good. the front one you generally don't need. drive it, try it, see what you think. if for some reason the rear rotates too easy you could add the front bar but i doubt you will need to
most of the autocrossers i talk to would prefer koni/gc over the ss. better dampening adjustment is the biggest bonus. other than that, you will probably think they feel similar
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