The crx is overheating. I drove up about 3 miles, temp gauge in the middle, came back home, and the temp gauge was fluctuating from the middle to the very top. Just as i pulled into the drive way the car cut off. Steam was pumpin out of radiator overflow hose, so i thought the pressure was equalized and kicked off the radiator cap. Well a **** load of steam came out (now i kno y they say not to do that.. lol). Anyways, I just replaced the thermostat (there wasnt one), drained the coolant and refilled it, went to bleed the system, and theres no bleeder screw there (look at the picture). Ive been having a surging idle problem since i bought the car... cleaned the iacv and the fitv to no avail. Maybe i need a new water pump?

The motors a d16z6 and has been giving me **** since i got it ( like dying when i stop, not starting when i try to push start it, then staring up and running fine 5 minutes later..)

Help would be GREATLY appreciated. thanks

o heres the picture:

 

eeeek... your surging was from the coolant system. there was definitly air inthe system. you NEED to get a bleeder screw. you also need to run the car with a thermostat. i wont be suprised if youve cause substantial damage to your head/head gasket. if you have air in the system, or bubbles in the system, your car cant read the temp propperly. so pray you havnt blown the head gasket or warped your head.

GL

 

any idea where to pick up a bleeder screw? i checked ebay and no luck. also, i dont think their is any substantial engine damage; when i drive the rex its usually just up the street to walgreens just to run it, and it rides fine.. no leaks or anything, but if theres a way to check for a blown head gasket, lmk

thanks!

 

go to a local junkyard and throw it in your pocket. or a last resort would be a honda dealership.

if you have white smoke out the exaust.. blown headgasket. if you pull your spark plugs and you have coolant on em.. blown head gasket.

you can google some more info on blown headgaskets.

 

ok thanks alot bro. i appreciate it. u think the bleeder screw is whats causing the overheating too?

 

you can also have your coolant tested for the presence of hydrocarbons, which if detected would indicate a blown hg. another common sign of a severely blown hg is oil in the crankcase or valvetrain area that looks like a chocolate milkshake.

 

well if the coolant is always leaking out and it never gets a chance to circulate properly then yes it would definitely lead to your engine overheating.

 

i forgot to mention its a d16z6 with a y8 head, and i was just doing some reading and read that the y8 doesnt have a bleed screw. maybe i but the thermo in upside down? i was reading that the little screw on the thermo is supposed to be on top, i wonder if i put it on the bottom. lol anymore ideas?

also, i noticed the transmission has a little layer of oil on it, but its not a leak per say. looks more like the oils just been sittin on it for a while.

 

If the thermo was on upside down, assuming it would even bolt up that way, the coolant neck would be pointing down towards the radiator. so i dont think thats your problem.

you are correct, the y8 head did not have a bleed screw. it appears you've got a diff coolant neck on there.

this is how the y8 thermo housing should go together

 

the pin is what i was talking about. i assume the best way to try and get air out of the cooling system would be to just run the motor with the radiator cap off and keep filling the radiator until its full?

 

basically yea. make sure you have the heater on as well so that any air bubbles in the heater core get out. if you do it by the book you're generallly supposed to wait for the fan to cycle twice before putting the cap back on.

 

u can bleed the cooling system by leaving the radiator cap off and then let the engine idle till the cooling fan come on. keep the coolant level.

 

check cooling fan for proper operation...could be a blown head gasket worst scenario.

 

you have to manually switch on my fan, and i got no a/c / heat, but ill try that tommorrow. really appreciate the help.

 

o yea, is it a big deal if that pin is upside down? i wasnt really paying attention when i put in the thermo so who knows

 

no if u bleeding it.

 

boil down your coolant and have the remnants analyzed on a microscope to see if you blew a headgasket. Or see if your sparkplugs are wet. Whichever is easier. You can build your own microscope here http://www.pacificnanotech.com/afm-tutorial.html Alternatively you can see what wet things look like here: http://coe.sdsu.edu/people/jmora/Ocean.JPG

 

^troll

 

^^^^^^ haha now thats tech
never heard of anyone busting out a microscope to fix a car

 

Bump cause I have a surging idle problem as well as cooling issues. Although I think the idle issue might be the brake booster/master cylinders fault. I heard that if the car overheats while idling but cools off once the car is moving that it is the water pump that's bad? Can anyone confirm or deny this? Thanks

 

well i got it idling w/o the radiator cap on now. funny thing tho cause whenever it surges coolant shoots out. lol

 

ok so i idled it for about 10 - 15 minutes (temp gauge still isnt in the middle, and the fluid barely went down) and its still surging. now i guess ill put the cap on and let it idle for another 10 minutes, let it cool down, then see how much i can fill it.

any other ideas?

EDIT: omg i just dont get it... now when i put the cap on fluid constantly comes out of the radiator overflow tube whenever it surges

 

what kind of rpm range is it surging between? it really shouldnt be overflowing into the overflow..

it might be adviseable at this point to go rent yourself a coolant pressure tester and see what kind of results you get. if its not holding pressure then you very likely have a blown hg.

by chance have you checked the oil lately or had the vc off? any milkshake going on? or is there any sludge like material starting to form inside the radiator fill neck?

 

when i first turn the car on it stays at 1000 rpm. after about 5 seconds it surges between 1250 and 2000 rpm. sometimes it'll drop as low as 800ish. my oil is good.. just checked, and i looked through oil refill cap and it looks good (assuming by milkshake you mean light brown?). i guess ill check out that coolant pressure tester

 

it spitting coolant coz there is a air pocket..one more thing u can do is lift the front end of the car and then start the car let it idle with radiator cap off..if start spitting again just shut it off for about 10-15 seconds and start it..if still spitting coolant u might wanna do coolant leak down test u probably have a blown head gasket....let me know how it go..