Ok so a little backstory and what ive done thus far.

Went out to my car last night and turned the key to start the car, cranked over once and then died. So i took the battery to be tested, AOK. Hmm. Ok so fuses, all are ok...crap.
Checked all the grounds...good getting good connection between all of them (not just the one on the battery). Terminals are all clean as well and all the grounds have been resanded just to make double sure. I also have metered all the fuses, starter, and alternator...the only one to not read 12.7 or 12.6 is the alternator. It was reading 5.7v.

I really would like anyones thoughts on to what this could be....i need my car to get from class to work.

Thanks,,
John

 

Hahahahaha! Same problem here!!! Im pretty sure its the alternator, I switched mine and it seemed fine.

 

how rough is that to do, i dont have access to a lift anymore...

 

Which alternator wire measured 5.7V and where did you test it?

Do the headlights work?

Do the dash warning lights turn on with the key in ON(II)? Does the fuel pump prime? Does the starter crank the engine but it won't start?

 

I measured the top one that has the dust cover over it

There is no power whatsoever that comes on in the car. No dome or dash lights. no horn. no headlights, starter,....basicly anything that is electrical doesnt come on.

My thoughts:

Key cylinder (ignition)??
Main Relay?
Alternator?
ECM?

 

with the car running, its should read 14Volts (or around there) if the alternator works.

if its not reading that it be be ur alternator.

with the car running,, disconnect the battery(neg.) wire, if the car shuts off, it's the battery. (let it sit a lil bit if it dont cut off right away).

goodluck

 

None of the above. If you have absolutely no power, then start by checking the big 80A fuse under the hood. Is it an 00 Civic?

 

I have checked all the fuses...refer to original post. It is a 00 civic dx.

I am getting voltage to the fuse boxes as well, im just lost on wtf is happening with it

 

You dont need a lift, but you will need the car to be on Jack stands since theres a 12mm and 14mm bolt on the bottom of the alternator. One is to support the alternator, and the other is the tension adjustment bolt.
You can pull it out from the top though, but you may scratch your shock tower like I did. You also have the remove the 10mm bolt that holds the P/S hose in place.

 

I did read your first post carefully. No offense, but there is a never ending stream of threads where the OP states that "all fuses are good" yet, in the end, a bad fuse is ultimately found. I don't know if this applies here. Nonetheless, you have no power whatsoever (Did you check whether the hazard lights work?). The 80A fuse protects nearly all electrical components, so it's worth double checking. If that big fuse is fine, I think the under-hood fuse box may be bad.

By the way, a bad alternator would not stop the headlights and other components from working, though a dead battery would.

 

It's cool ron, no offense taken. That 80 is checking out fine again...i am getting power to all fuses. I'm going to try and disable my viper alarm system and see if that is my issue.

Thanks thus far to all who are helping me out!

 

If the Viper is not the cause of the problem, then remove the hood fuse box and inspect its underside for signs of a short or disconnected plugs.

 

Ok viper isn't the cause, i disabled it and still am having the same issues. Im going to mess with the fuses, replacing them one by one.

 

Seriously, if the big 80A fuse is good, focus on the hood fuse box. Do the hazard lights work?

 

Ok update:

Car is still not functional.

I have changed out the main relay, changed the ecu, and rechecked EVERY fuse. One thing that i did find was that if i wasnt using the battery ground that it was reading 6.3v, not 12.5v with the battery ground.