The car is a 94 dx coupe weighs 2300 w/driver. Have a jdm d15b vtec with 240whp on the bottle. The trans is a p20 w/ a obx lsd and a Competition Stage 3 along with a full race traction bar. I have been using an old set of 235/60-14 M&H Street slicks and have had some problems with the stock axles. The best 60' I have gotten out of these tires is a 1.96. I now have a brand new set of 23/8-13 M&H Slicks. What is the best way to launch this car? I have been being very aggressive on the clutch release and getting on the gas before the 60' (hence the broken axles). The fastest I have gotten the car with a 2.01 60' is an 8.34 at 87mph, which sucks. I know by the mph I should be at least 8.0X's. Would pre-loading like a turbo car help? Or just superheat the clutch? Any ideas would be great.

 

Spray it soon as you leave. I'd start launhing at 3500rpm and go up from there.

 

Should I preload and ride the clutch out? I have been breaking the hell out of axles shooting it out of the gate.

 

i Would recommend preloading.

 

Most likely the car is too low. The straighter you get the axles the less breakage you will have. Wheel hop is another cause.

 

Preload and the launch rpm depends on the track, tire psi, suspension, etc.

You want to be able to get on the nitrous as fast as possible. As soon as traction allows, grab the unit.

 

The car isnt lowered much maybe 1.5". I will try preloading this weekend and let you guys know. I have skunk 2 coil overs on stock replacement struts.

 

You haven't been using the slicks have you? I'd say the broken axle's were from using the other tires. As others have said get into the nitrous asap. Also fwiw I think your times are good for a d15 lol. Maybe not by HT standards though.


My pos runs 7.8@88 with a 1.7 60ft on 22" slicks. It's a nissan though.

 

Have not used the slicks yet. Hopefully I can get this thing into the 7's, that would be bad ***. Ever hear of anyone cryo treating a set of axles to harden them? I think I am going to try it to see what happens.

 

I'd preload no matter what, specially with slicks. You should be able to come outta the hole on the bottle with slicks

 

lmfao why would you spend money to treat a set of stock axles when there is a smorgasboard of stronger aftermarket units available?

You can try to polish a terd (stock axles) all you want, but at the end of they day they are still terds if you get my point.

 

Yes, preload the drivetrain with the e-brake, experiment with different tire pressures with the slicks (i'd suggest starting with like 10 psi and work your way down in half lb. increments), spray it simultaneously at the launch, and familiarize yourself at what psi the slicks like grip wise, and you'll be fine.

Do you have a two-step limiter? And if so, what rpm is it set at?

 

There is another post in another forum he has that states he has access to the cryo treating. So his cost is going to be VERY low. Why not try it? If it works, great. If not, he looks into better axles. Don't be so quick to discourage.

 

i am making 267ftlb of torque on a D16a6, pulling 1.70 60's w/ 23inch M&H slicks, using stock axles, and ive never had an axle issue once.

something is up with the axles you are using or the way you are launching the car.. you want a little spin off the line

 

dont you think the current aftermarket axles producers have already considered trying this? IMO the cryo treatment will just make them more brittle than they already are.

at the end of the day its still a junk axle with weak splines and everything else that comes with a bone stock axle, but to each his own.

 

I guarantee that the aftermarket producers have tried it at some point, let alone just thought of it. But, they've ended with better results from new blanks... which, how do you know they haven't treated the new shafts as well?

As for a bone stock axle that is junk, I can say the same about the stock gears in our transmissions being absolute garbage when it comes to putting down anything above 300 whp. Yet people have come up with various successful ways to treat them and they hold up fine in 600-700 hp applications.

Sorry to get off topic guys, I know nothing of nitrous cars; I just hate to see any discouragement to fellow racers trying different things if they have open access to trying them.

 

I have never had a gearbox failure in 9 years of driving Honda's, guess I am lucky.... nitrous is much harder on parts than turbo ish though, the juice hits hard as hell. I am sure some of the axle companies do treat their stuff, more than likey with heat not chilling, but I am just guessing on that.

 

Gator Racing axles. (ask for glen )
Is there a reason for not purchasing a set of after market axles?

 

The cryo treatment would cost me $0 so whats it going to hurt? I have hardened stock input shafts for powerglide/th350 transmissions as well as clutch baskets after breaking several stock ones with great success. I am not talking like carbide hard but a fair amount harder. I don't want to spend a fortune on axles thats why I am going to give this a shot. Regardless I am going to preload this time around. There is ALOT of gas on this car so its still a fairly abrupt hit, although the nitrous line between the solenoid and the nozzle is almost 26" as opposed to the 8" line on the fuel side. (Softened up the hit a fair amount)

 

I used to launch at 3500 and as soon as my foot was off the clutch it was spraying. This was on slicks.

 

This may be your sole issue man, trust me. Do it correctly, and I think you'll be fine, axle wise.

 

I had my msd 2 step set at 3600 and as soon as my clutch was coming off the floor i would be on the gas. good for 1.67 60fts, on coilovers with stock shocks!