D Series Questions
I have a 99 EX (d16y8) with 126K on the clock and i've looked into doing a swap but I think I would like to build the stock motor and keep the original VIN matching motor. Some may think thats stupid but its what I want to do plus I already have the motor.
From the research i've been doing, it seems like most people that build the d series for n/a set ups use the p29 piston. No one really ever said what rod they are using though. What are some good options? FJ? Eagle? I called honda and they want $196 for each stock d16y8 rod. You can get much better rods for that price. Also, I dont plan on using nitrous so will the p29's be sufficient or do i need forged pistons?
Thanks for the help
From the research i've been doing, it seems like most people that build the d series for n/a set ups use the p29 piston. No one really ever said what rod they are using though. What are some good options? FJ? Eagle? I called honda and they want $196 for each stock d16y8 rod. You can get much better rods for that price. Also, I dont plan on using nitrous so will the p29's be sufficient or do i need forged pistons?
Thanks for the help
The only thing I can say, is that if you're serious about power, ditch that damn cylinder head. I just posted this on another forum last night...
I did a D16Y8 head recently for a guy, and I know that head comes on the 'economy' models, but some people dont realize just how bad it is from an airflow/performance standpoint. One side of the port, the choke is much smaller and the bowl is filled in. Theres only so much you can 'fix' in the port, and without sonic testing, or cutting a head in half, it's risky hitting water or not. I got the bowl nice and straight, and moved the choke over a bit but it's still bad.

I did a D16Y8 head recently for a guy, and I know that head comes on the 'economy' models, but some people dont realize just how bad it is from an airflow/performance standpoint. One side of the port, the choke is much smaller and the bowl is filled in. Theres only so much you can 'fix' in the port, and without sonic testing, or cutting a head in half, it's risky hitting water or not. I got the bowl nice and straight, and moved the choke over a bit but it's still bad.
Your stock rods will work fine for just about any allmotor setup. I would chose something other than the p29 pistons also. They will put you in the 13-1 CR range. PM6 or PG6 pistons will work better on pump gas. I wouldn't realistically expect more than 140-150whp on a built street all motor d16y8.
Should I look at 75mm or 75.5mm pistons? And the 150 hp is whp correct? Isnt that what a stock gsr is at? plus it'll make more torque and allow my to keep the stock motor. The car probably wont ever see the track. Just a fun DD
Some people say the p29's will work fine, others say they wont. That makes if difficult for people like myself who are trying to learn and keep getting conflicting info. I just did a search on google for the PG6 pistons and people are saying they dont work and you should spend money on better pistons. Like I said, it isnt fun for people trying to learn and then when you post a question we get told to search.
Sorry for the rant, just want to learn.
Sorry for the rant, just want to learn.
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PG6 pistons need the valve relief's clearanced in them since the DOHC had different valve positions. The p29s have a huge dome and block the flame travel and require you to pull an *** load of timing to prevent det. even on 93. I would listen to CC he knows what he is talking about. A milled z6 head would do you worlds better than a y8 for the most HP. The y8 will provide you with more midrange trq but the z6 will give you more power.
some yes some no. people who really get a serious build going build an entire z6 for better oiling. Y8s have a tendency to spin #4 bearings dues to less oiling holes and a sh*tty pump
I just figured since I already had the motor it would be easier to work with the y8. Just found a z6 head with IM on craigslist for $150. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time and dont waste money. Is there going to be enough of a difference in power between the two heads to make it worth while?
you could probably find it cheaper than that and you dont need the IM, keep your y8. the y8 is more of a swirl head while the z6 is a tumble port. The z6 will make more power especially if you mill it down to near y8 chamber size
you could yes but again the pg6 will give you nearly the same compression but be alot easier to tune and much more efficient. dont be afraid to try something different
Is there a place to calculate the CR or do you already know what it would be with the PG6's? is there any work that has to be done to get them to fit or do they just drop right in?
http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html
compressed HG size is .027. If you dont mill the head hte pg6's will work. You could mill up to around .04 without issues. Its always best to clay the motor seeing how every motor is different
compressed HG size is .027. If you dont mill the head hte pg6's will work. You could mill up to around .04 without issues. Its always best to clay the motor seeing how every motor is different
According to that site, the difference in CR between the y8 and z6 heads is 12.14:1 for the z6 and 12.72:1 for the y8 using the same pistons (pg6). Is the 12.14:1 safe to run on pump gas?
yes, it has and currently is being done. With the very small dome of the PG6 it allows for alot better tuneability and can run on pump without a problem. Hell Joseph Davis ran a 12.5:1 on 87 but that was a y5 head, same casting as a y8.
yea a lot of people turbo sohc you should check out the force induction thread and read the sohc thread. so u can see some builts and how much power some sohc are pushing
Thats kinda what ive been doing. I've been trying to read up as much as possible here, dseries, and turbod16 so when i do have questions I some what know what im asking. A turbo just seems like it could get expensive very quickly
a simple NA build with a D can yeild very good results, it just takes thought. You dont just throw parts at it and expect it to work. The right compression, headwork are very important while the right cam is probably the biggest. 160hp isn't that hard to acheive in a D for under 2500. Send your head to get ported by someone who knows their ****. Hit up exospeed or bisi for a cam and try to get ahold of a bisi header if you dont mind ditching AC and PS. If you dont than look into a different route.
I would love to do an N/A build but honestly, the more i read up on alot of people's turbo builds, its hard not to learn towards that route. I honestly wont be taking it to the track other than like one time just to see what it runs. Its more just for fun for everyday driving and the fact that the stock d16y8 just isnt fast period.



