Hi guys,

Just in need of abit of help & guidance. I just put my motor together, its a basic build:

RS ITR 84.5mm pistons
ARP rod bolts
Stock valves
Skunk2 Pro springs & retainers
PRO1 cams

Ive got everything built up, just started her up today for the first time. And she seems to want to run dead lean on idle. She revs nice and makes good power uptil 4k. But for idle ive had to throw in a stupid ammount of fuel on the map, ive tried timing on the map from 8 to 20 with only minimum changes. Idle control is on 20% duty.

I had a friend degree my cams, my exhaust is on -2 degrees and the intake at -4. Does this sound right?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

whats the AFR of idle? Its going to be lean no matter what but what is dead lean?

 

What rpm is the car idling at? for PRO 1's i find that u need to open up the idle screw a bit so the car can idle at roughly 1100-1200 rpms. get the 1/f to 13-14 at idle and 1st set base timing to 16.5* and sync the dizzy. After this, set idle timing to around 22-24*

 

Ive got the car at 15/15.4afr, I cant get her any richer. Timing is at 23degrees. Ive opened the idle screw quite alot, and she wont idle higher then 1k. Shel sit at 1k and just drop down to 800 the odd ocasion.

 

any reason why the intake is at -4?

 

Those installation numbers do not seem correct, unless you are running a thicker headgasket.

You should be in the -1 to +1 range on the intake and +2 to +5 on the exhaust. These are where all four sets of Pro series cams I have installed have made most power.

My Pro3's idle at ~850rpm steady, with a hint of cam. Idle fuel is ~14.0-14.5:1, timing (after sycnh with distributor) is 19-20* BTDC. IACV duty cycle is around 60%. Make sure you adjust your advanced tables and raise moving idle speed and ECT vs Idle correction.

I also opened the throttle plate a hair by adjusting the throttle stop (allen locking nut with 8mm threaded stud on underside of throttle cam). If you do this with the TB off, shine a flashlight and open the TB plate until you can just barely see light coming through.

 

I can confirm this with my Pro1 setup as well (including opening the TB a hair). My car idles with a nice consistent yet lumpy idle at 850RPM with no issues.

 

unless your motor is not, new, dont sit around and rev it..

not good..
as for the pro series install, marshall is right.. your exhaust is majority of the time going to be advance way more then your intake.your numbers dont seem correct.. but i believe.. the lean idle is your doing.. check your ign table.

 

Im not sure how the guy got -4 on the intake. I just tried intake on 0 and exhaust +3 and she seems to be alot more responsive. Im going to see how she runs tomorrow.
The engine has already been run in with itr cams, and the pro1 cams were bought used.
I believe the cams wernt dialed in properly, im going to have her on the dyno and just run some tests. Im going to take the throttle body of and do what the two dudes recomend doing, see if that helps the idle. I doubt its the timing on the map.

 

Be aware that you shouldn't let the valve timing get any closer than 1-2* separation, for example 0I,0E = Bad. 0I,3E = Good. Low lift duration makes the valve-to-valve clearance tight on these camshafts.

 

i was +2 exhaust +1 intake and idled at 1100 with pro1s

 

when you say the cams were degreed, did your buddy just set a position with the gears or did he actaully degree them out the right way

 

He degreed them with my mike belben kit, from xeneron I think. He definately wrong, im going to have to look into this myself I reckon.

I just got back from tuning the car on the dyno and she made 214whp and 158lbs. I believe I need to degree the cams in properly, I know she has way more potential. Power seemed to peak at 8k..Oh and shes idling nice now, 1100 steady and smooth.

 

If you plan on tuning the cam gears on the dyno, do not bother with the degree process.

I don't think your power numbers are way off. I made 218/155 with Pro2's on my setup before switching to Pro3's. My Pro2's peaked at 8400 with a stock ITR IM and TB, so your setup seems to be producing in-line with what I would expect.

Do you have any significant headwork or an aftermarket IM? What exhaust manifold are you running?

 

Yeh I believe your right about the degree process, I may aswell just play with them on the dyno and see what the difference is. I left it as it was today, because I thought the motor is taking a good beating and making decent enough power. From what youve also said, seems like it is on par, however having a little play with the cams on the dyno might be something worth checking out. I may just try advance intake by 1 degree and see how it likes it then, if it dont like that then -1.

Head is complete stock B16 with ITR inlet & TB. Header is some weird japanese 4-1 that came on the ef9 from japan. Mated with full 2.5'' exhaust system.

 

sounds just like my b20 engine build. can you post up pics of the dyno run, i am interested in the power curve and how much these make in the mid range being a high lift short duration cam

what size injectors and what fuel pressure are you running them on out of interest?

 

When I go back to do more testing on the dyno, ill get some graphs printed off. Injectors are meant to be prelude 340s or 370s, fuel pressure is at 43psi.

 

awesome that would be great. running prelude 345cc here at 38psi. on stock cams on a stock b16a map i used for a base start on my b20 it was still 20%-30% to rich across the table!

had to pull loads of fuel everywhere and just about got it right now. i was just curious as to if they were going to run out of gumpfh at 8000 with high lift cams etc

 

A lot of good info here.