F*** NITROUS. I BLEW
Last night i threw a wet kit on my build. i squeezed a couple runs and it gave a nice burst of power. I mean DAMN, it was good. ROCKIN FULLY BUILT TURBO HATCHES. but after its burst it would boggg and would slowly redline. ME being a dumbass kept on it. driving home, at 65, it started to sputter, i dont hear any valve noise it just runs like complete **** idles at 400-500 and usually dies within a 30 secs- minute on start up? HELP?
KEEP THE PERSNOAL COMMENTS TO YOUR SELF. THIS IS FOR HELP ONLY.
KEEP THE PERSNOAL COMMENTS TO YOUR SELF. THIS IS FOR HELP ONLY.
drain the oil and see what comes out.
take off the valve cover and check for damage(after a compression test)
did you have your timing retard when you hit nitrous? or did you just hook it up and hit the button?
take off the valve cover and check for damage(after a compression test)
did you have your timing retard when you hit nitrous? or did you just hook it up and hit the button?
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*waits*
//me doing some detective work
//edit
pretty sure he has adjustable timing
check out 'homies post'
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/freeway-street-tires-2549606/
and to think i felt bad about his stuff blowing
//me doing some detective work
//edit
check out 'homies post'
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/freeway-street-tires-2549606/
and to think i felt bad about his stuff blowing
Last edited by kozanatos; Aug 31, 2009 at 11:20 AM.
damn he doesnt even respond...
I love when people post like this with absolutely no information on the car/setup or anything and just ask us to solve the problem haha
I love when people post like this with absolutely no information on the car/setup or anything and just ask us to solve the problem haha
Long story short, there is no HELP outside rebuilding or buying another short block - your B20B is probably TOAST.
Read up on how nitrous works, and how you must adjust the AFR's and timing to prevent doing this again.
Unless you adjusted the wet kit properly, it could have had AFR's all over the place - either very rich or very lean. Add the fact you didn't alter your ignition timing, and you probably cracked some ringlands (broken pistons), melted a piston or three, blown the headgasket, toasted the brearings, and/or a few other minor things.
Long story short, there is no HELP outside rebuilding or buying another short block - your B20B is probably TOAST.
Read up on how nitrous works, and how you must adjust the AFR's and timing to prevent doing this again.
Long story short, there is no HELP outside rebuilding or buying another short block - your B20B is probably TOAST.
Read up on how nitrous works, and how you must adjust the AFR's and timing to prevent doing this again.
He didnt say it was knocking so the bearings probably arent toast. But it def sounds like he melted a piston.
sorry everyone for not responding so soon. set up is as follows
b20Z block p72 head skunk2 pro springs retainers valves. Type r cams
stock block.
heads port n polished and milled.
first off not a noob. yes i retarted my timing 2 degrees. so sorry not a retard here.
im going to go check the timing right now and compression
get you results soon here. thanks for the help
b20Z block p72 head skunk2 pro springs retainers valves. Type r cams
stock block.
heads port n polished and milled.
first off not a noob. yes i retarted my timing 2 degrees. so sorry not a retard here.
im going to go check the timing right now and compression
get you results soon here. thanks for the help
it was a roughly a 75 give or take.
but one of the spark plugs was just completly gone hahaha. must of been hot in number 2. which is unusal because on single foggers usually happens in 3 and 4 cylinders cuz thats closet to the spray nozzle. Still scratchin my head on that one. but i tried doin a compression test in cyl 2 and i didnt even get a reading?
runs a bit better with the new plugs. but still like ****.
checked timing.... at 16 degrees its 1-2cm from the 3rd line. so adjustments are in order.
from there if it doesnt work, gotta pull the head to see any further damage crossin my fingers on this one. though doesnt sound bad just running very rough.
but one of the spark plugs was just completly gone hahaha. must of been hot in number 2. which is unusal because on single foggers usually happens in 3 and 4 cylinders cuz thats closet to the spray nozzle. Still scratchin my head on that one. but i tried doin a compression test in cyl 2 and i didnt even get a reading?
runs a bit better with the new plugs. but still like ****.
checked timing.... at 16 degrees its 1-2cm from the 3rd line. so adjustments are in order.
from there if it doesnt work, gotta pull the head to see any further damage crossin my fingers on this one. though doesnt sound bad just running very rough.
it was a roughly a 75 give or take.
but one of the spark plugs was just completly gone hahaha. must of been hot in number 2. which is unusal because on single foggers usually happens in 3 and 4 cylinders cuz thats closet to the spray nozzle. Still scratchin my head on that one. but i tried doin a compression test in cyl 2 and i didnt even get a reading?
runs a bit better with the new plugs. but still like ****.
checked timing.... at 16 degrees its 1-2cm from the 3rd line. so adjustments are in order.
from there if it doesnt work, gotta pull the head to see any further damage crossin my fingers on this one. though doesnt sound bad just running very rough.
but one of the spark plugs was just completly gone hahaha. must of been hot in number 2. which is unusal because on single foggers usually happens in 3 and 4 cylinders cuz thats closet to the spray nozzle. Still scratchin my head on that one. but i tried doin a compression test in cyl 2 and i didnt even get a reading?
runs a bit better with the new plugs. but still like ****.
checked timing.... at 16 degrees its 1-2cm from the 3rd line. so adjustments are in order.
from there if it doesnt work, gotta pull the head to see any further damage crossin my fingers on this one. though doesnt sound bad just running very rough.


