Engine knock only when motor is warm up
My friend car, a 2001 civic EX D17a2 engine is knocking, but only when the motor is hot, and only between 2000rpm and 3000rpm. The engine is not knocking under load, only if you press the gaz pedale a little and you keep the same rpm.
When the car is cold there's absolutely no knocking sound. He put 10W30 oil instead of 5w20.
The oil pressure light doesnt stay on more than half a second when he start the car in the morning.
What is wrong?
Update Video: http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=100_0061.flv
When the car is cold there's absolutely no knocking sound. He put 10W30 oil instead of 5w20.
The oil pressure light doesnt stay on more than half a second when he start the car in the morning.
What is wrong?
Update Video: http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=100_0061.flv
Last edited by TuningHonda; Sep 3, 2009 at 05:55 PM.
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to be completely honest, if its a rod bearing going out, dont even start it, that way ou can prevent it from seizing up or blowing!!
as for driving the car listen to ej8ster96 he is completely right don't drive the car at all if you need to limp it home and start looking for a new motor. Luckily you can pick those motor up for as low as $150 but usually $300-500
and the reason the car does not make noise when it is cold or when there is thicker oil in is cause when oil is cold it is thicker and thicker oil reduces more sound you could probably drop 50w oil in and not hear a thing. I would drain the oil through a screen or a coffee filter and start looking for copper shaving in the mix
Last edited by bomerman19; Sep 1, 2009 at 10:10 PM.
that is spark knock (aka. detonation which can lead to rod knock if not taken care of) not rod knock. if the rod bearing is bad it will continue to make noise even if you disconnect one of the coil packs cause it won't stop the rod from going up and down while the crank spins
as for driving the car listen to ej8ster96 he is completely right don't drive the car at all if you need to limp it home and start looking for a new motor. Luckily you can pick those motor up for as low as $150 but usually $300-500
and the reason the car does not make noise when it is cold or when there is thicker oil in is cause when oil is cold it is thicker and thicker oil reduces more sound you could probably drop 50w oil in and not hear a thing. I would drain the oil through a screen or a coffee filter and start looking for copper shaving in the mix
as for driving the car listen to ej8ster96 he is completely right don't drive the car at all if you need to limp it home and start looking for a new motor. Luckily you can pick those motor up for as low as $150 but usually $300-500
and the reason the car does not make noise when it is cold or when there is thicker oil in is cause when oil is cold it is thicker and thicker oil reduces more sound you could probably drop 50w oil in and not hear a thing. I would drain the oil through a screen or a coffee filter and start looking for copper shaving in the mix
rotor and cap? the d17a2 does not have a distributor it uses coil packs.
what type of spark plugs do you have in the car?
and it sounds to me like you have rod knock not spark knock. which can be caused from oil starvation, detonation, or oil degredation(oil does not get changed and breaks down essentially does nothing after a while)
what type of spark plugs do you have in the car?
and it sounds to me like you have rod knock not spark knock. which can be caused from oil starvation, detonation, or oil degredation(oil does not get changed and breaks down essentially does nothing after a while)
spark knock? you missed the whole point of that statement. removing the spark plug removes pressure from the cylinder, no pressure=no load=no knock.
^you will still get knock even if you take the plug out and remove the pressure off the cylinder due to the rate it is spinning at especially with the way these block flex. it's an infective test to determine rod knock
Last edited by bomerman19; Sep 3, 2009 at 07:33 AM.
You can also get a commercially available filter cutter and cut apart your oil filter to see the metal and other contaminants the filter has trapped. Sending an oil sample to an oil analysis lab is inexpensive, under $25 Canadian per sample, will tell you what debris and contamination there is in you oil that cannot be seen with your eyes.
that sounds like spark knock to me check your map, cam and your crank sensor. and what spark plugs are you running certain brands of spark plugs even though they are sold for this car do not work
im running ngk, and they are the right one. I check all 4 spark plugs today and they are perfect, color and shape. I dont know what to do now..
like stated before it wont last very long....maybe a day or two? atlest thats how long mine lasted before the motor locked up. (d16y8)
So be honest with me...what was said "friend" doing?
Was he low on oil?
Or was he staying in high rpms casue he was driving like Dom on the F&F?
So be honest with me...what was said "friend" doing?
Was he low on oil?
Or was he staying in high rpms casue he was driving like Dom on the F&F?
You can also get a commercially available filter cutter and cut apart your oil filter to see the metal and other contaminants the filter has trapped. Sending an oil sample to an oil analysis lab is inexpensive, under $25 Canadian per sample, will tell you what debris and contamination there is in you oil that cannot be seen with your eyes.

OR take the drain plug out your oil pan and drain all the oil (if there is any) Look at the end of the treaded protion of the drain plug, there will be/should be a magnet, and look for metal shavings
but now it been a week with this sound and the motor still run perfectly except the sound lol.
My friend dont drive like a dumb, the oil was castrol gtx, keep in mind the motor have 160 000 miles
My friend dont drive like a dumb, the oil was castrol gtx, keep in mind the motor have 160 000 miles



