1992 Honda Accord
Got my breaks done after my rear passanger side went out (was using emergency break for a bit then it finall went with fluid going everywhere).

Now that they are done my break peddle is spongy. Some days its harder to stop than others.

They (pep boys) blead the brakes. It was great for about 7 miles then it became spongy again.

I brought it back and they re-blead with the same result.

I also just recently blead my breaks. Could it be anything else? Is there a chance the 'break master cylinder' is bad? I checked for leakage (fluid or air) and found nothing.

Could it be just adjusting the peddle? Maybe... frequent pushes to the floor possibly loosened something up?

Any help would be great.

(also, could the ECU be the cause for this at any point in the life of a car?)

 

check your rear wheel cylinders to see if there are any leaks.

 

Did the lines get replaced when it busted in the rear?

What method are you using to bleed (pneumatics or person pressing) ? Replacing the master cylinder isn't too hard of a job and for the new OEM unit is like $140 if I recall when I did it. Are you seeing any leaks around it? Under it against the firewall if the paint is bubbly it can indicate a leak.

When was the last time you changed out all the fluid in the system? Over time it can collect water and cause issues.

 

As posted earlier, spongy brakes are often caused by air trapped in one or more cylinder.
The correct position sequence for manual bleeding is:
R/Rear
L/Rear
R/Front
L/Front
(getting progressively closer to the master cylinder)

If by "spongy" you mean the pedal slowly goes to the floor, or the pedal remains low; you could be dealing with two conditions.
Badly misadjusted rear brakes
Master Cylinder starting to "bypass", and requires replacement

P

 

if you have blead the brakes multiple times and you are confident in the job, check for any kind of leaks. brake lines, master cyl, brake cyl, bleeders. if no leaks you probably have an internal problem with the master cyl. good luck

 

Cool.. I will be working on the car friday so I will let everyone know how it goes.

 

Yeah everything was done.

The method I used for bleeding the brakes was person pressing.

I have not noticed any leaks any where (but I yet to look at the fire wall)

Fluid was changed completely a few months ago.

 

which fluid did you use?

 

I am in the process of bleading the breaks...again. I just replace the brake master cylinder...and this is a concern...

After taking the master cylinder off I notice a small chrome shaft (it plunges into the cylinder to release brake fluid....) My concern is this... how loose is this chrome shaft? I touched it and it wigles alot and there is some give when slightly pushed inward towards the fire wall.

any insight will be great.

jon

 

Well, if it's loose or tight its working and pushing into the Brake Master Cylinder. But my stupid *** didn't get all the air out of the master Cylinder before I put it on and now I pushed a bunch of air into the brake lines leaving me with absolutely no breaks!!! NOthing, dada, zip!

So, should I take it off and get the air out of it or should I just re-blead the brakes since all the air has been push into the lines?

Any insight would be great!

 

Bleed the system, be sure not to press the pedal all the way down, not too fast either. But, remove the wheels, check every wheel for possible leaks, remove the rear drums if you have and check for leaks inside.
While bleeding, be sure to NEVER let the master cylinder get empty or below the minimum amount of fluid, as it can and will suck air into the lines.
Good luck.

 

note for above^^^:make sure the drums are on when bleeding the rears!

 

The Haynes manual says to bleed in a different order:

Front left
Front right
Rear right
Rear left

Which is correct?

 

Now you know why I don't suggest hayes manuals.

I was taught, and have always bled from furthest to closest; and it's always worked (manually or with a power bleeder).

P

 

The BEAST is running great! Got the breaks fixed after numerous times bleeding.

Also, replaced the TCU and the Shift control Selonoid and now it shifts beautifully.

Now just have to figure out my brake lights, but that is no biggy for me right now!

Thanks guys!

jon

 

Sorry for reopening this thread. Did you follow P Adams suggestion?
R/Rear
L/Rear
R/Front
L/Front
(getting progressively closer to the master cylinder)

I am having the same problem w/ my 92 Accord after bleeding starting from front to rear. I am going to do it again as P Adams suggested and hoping it will fix the problem.

 

yeah we got it rocking! I had so much air in the system that I had to bleed them a few times. We did it like you just mentioned starting from the furthest and finishing with the closest.


good luck

 

For accords 98-02 both the Haynes manual AND Helms manual say to bleed in this order:
FL
FR
RR
RL

I'm not sure about your 1992 model. I did bleed my brakes according to the manuals without any problems.

 

How does the phrase go?
"Six (6) of one, 'half a dozen of the other."

I do it my way because.
a) Greatest chance of getting the most air out on the first cycle.
b) Bleeds the master cylinder in the first cycle.

Hey, it works

I'm glad everyione got all sorted out anyway

P

 

I just checked my Haynes manual for 90-93 Accord showing in this order:
L/Rear
R/Front
R/Rear
L/Front
In my opinion, P Adams idea of starting from the farthest to closest does make more sense to me. Anyway, I greatly appreciate the response!!!

 

Always glad to help P