i was wondering if i milled my d16 head do i need a different length timing belt or can i use the same length?


let me know thanks i appreciate it

 

u can use the same belt but you should need a adj cam gear to adjust for the timing change if you mill a lot, I milled .040 on my old car

 

depends on how far you mill it.

 

so if i milled my head .040 i should be able to use the same timing belt right? i need more info on it let me know thanks... some people bfor told me to mill it .040 but when i ask them bout the timing belt they never answer me lol

 

yes .040 i use same belt when i shaved my a6 or z6's and so can u

 

i've pulled the valves out and millled it all the way down on a single cam.... down to where the valves stuck out past the head.. and used the stock timing belt...

i don't do that anymore because i've taken out a lot of motors that way!! but i was getting D Series motors back then for like 50 bucks each or free. so i didnt really care if they blew up..

anyway.. you will be fine with the stock belt..

 

Stock belt will work fine, you'll just need an adjustable cam gear to correct for the milling.

 

it should be good for daily driven too right?

 

why wouldn't it be?

 

go over to one cam only and look up Rushi's D15b2 build. Its got more info/tech in that thread alone than probably half the threads here combined. he milled his d15 head to where he has the valves sticking above surface. He used the WP gear off a b16 WP to compensate for the slack in his Timing belt and the engine is running fine he just has some tuning and intake mani issues to resolve right now but the engine will easily make 200hp with out blinking an eye.

 

im porting it thats why so thought id ask... idk

 

Unless you have lots of experience porting heads don't touch yours unless you want to lose power.

 

okok well I milled my d16a6 head and use the same timing belt, I have a adjustable cam gear but i dont know how much to degree sorry but i,m new at this can some help me?

 

how much was your head milled? Was the block decked at all? Are you using a stock 3 layer headgasket?

 

Here is a A6 head I milled 80k," if you do a huge mill on a 1.6 motor you can run a HF belt since the 1.6 belts will be too long. On a 1.5L you can swap water pump gears to make up the slack.

 

the head was milled .040 the block wasnt decked and yes im using the stock 3 layer gasket. Another question, the cars when is under heavy load it start to over heat little by little, could it be the high comp? I have p29 pistons too but the cam is the stock one and the radiator and water pump are fine and the thermostat is new and the hoses too

 

you need to advance your cam gear by 1 cam (not crank) degree to correct for the milling. If you're HG isn't sealing correctly, that could cause it to overheat. You need to check all the basics.

 

How can I check that? How can I check thath the headgasket is sealing correctly? sorry for this I dont speak english very well so if you can explain it to me the more simple the better thanks.

 

bump can someone help me?

 

Check all the basics like your radiator to make sure it isn't blocked, your thermostat to make sure it's opening properly, your fan switch to make sure it's turning on when it should, your heater to make sure you're getting heat meaning it's not blocked.

When you say that it starts to over heat, what exactly does it do?

 

okok I already did all of that the radiator is fine the termostat too is opening properly the fan is turning on and I have no heater. The car start to overheat after I while in the Highway for example or when I'm climb into a mountain but if it left in idley it stays at normal temp. The oem temp gauge doenst actually begans to increase just stay where is suppose to but i have another one and it climbs to 210 degrees F the comes down to 190 and again climb a little the drops down and so on and on and I had noticed that when a put the car in neutral and let it run it puts down a little the temp. The engine was rebulid it only has 500 miles i flush all the cooling system everything is new it doesnt have a leak anywere and I bleed the cooling system a lot of times. Remember it has p29, d16y8 metal gasket and the head is milled .40.Please help...

 

If you're not losing any coolant and it's not boiling in your overflow tank, I think it's ok. Sounds like one guage is just a little more sensative than the other.

 

The OE gauge isn't linear. It's slope flattens out at the beginning and end of the normal temp range. That's why it shows little/no movement during temp. fluctuations. I guess that's the same as saying it's not as sensitive. I wouldn't be concerned if it was my car. The temp is going to fluctuate.

 

Yeah I had think that too but the only things is that when i'm climbing in the mountains the oem temp gauge its start to tell that is hot but it pulls up than comes normal again then suddenly it pulls up again then puts ok again and on and on untill I'm clear the mountain the put again in normal place, both of them. My friend tells me that it could be the compression and he thinks that I should get a bigger cam but I dont know the only thing my friend manage to do is was to confuse me more...

 

yeah im sending it in to cccylinders to do it for me...