Wiring up VTEC for my mini-me
Aight guys, so I'm doing a mini-me swap, D15B7 block and a D15B JDM VTEC head. I'd like to know a few specifics about the VTEC wiring.
Can I use the existing ecu plug and just add the necessary pins/wires? If so, where the hell do you get ECU pins? I've looked everywhere.
Also, do people get pretty good results out of these swaps? I've heard that sometimes timing belts break, and overall odd engine behavior occurs. This can be expected I guess, when you take a block with 150,000 miles and use a head with only 50,000 miles. I figured I might get better results since I'm using the 1.5 JDM head rather than the 1.6 D16Z6 head.
Thanks guys.
Can I use the existing ecu plug and just add the necessary pins/wires? If so, where the hell do you get ECU pins? I've looked everywhere.
Also, do people get pretty good results out of these swaps? I've heard that sometimes timing belts break, and overall odd engine behavior occurs. This can be expected I guess, when you take a block with 150,000 miles and use a head with only 50,000 miles. I figured I might get better results since I'm using the 1.5 JDM head rather than the 1.6 D16Z6 head.
Thanks guys.
d15b head is the same as the z6....
i had a usdm d15b7 like 90hp, i put on a vtec head and it felt like i had 150hp for reals. even out of vtec it felt way faster. i used a msd rpm activator switch to hit vtecy at 5k rpm. use the search bar in google and type in "vtec ecu pinout"
i had a usdm d15b7 like 90hp, i put on a vtec head and it felt like i had 150hp for reals. even out of vtec it felt way faster. i used a msd rpm activator switch to hit vtecy at 5k rpm. use the search bar in google and type in "vtec ecu pinout"
are u effin serious 150hp with just a mini-me swap BAHHAHA Ur a few fries short of a happy meal bro. maybe 105hp from 90hp. u can use a vtec controller if ur goin to run it N/a or buy a chipped ecu if ur planning on boost later on with a stock basemap. u can splice ur oil pressure switch and vtec wire together and ground the other wire to the pressure switch then run ur vtec wire to a controller or repin the ecu...
Trending Topics
Go to a junkyard and pull pins from a junk civic. Then run thoses from the ecu through the firewall and to the tower on the passenger side. Make sure to get the right size pins. Or you could get an EX or SI harness and install that, costs more, but then you can have power windows doors, ect. What are you running anyways? If it's a 92 hatch, you don't need pins, as all 92's I believe were wired for VTEC.
Right now its stock D15B7 in a 94 Civic DX 4DR. No power anything, haha.
So I guess now the dilemma is whether to let the ECU control VTEC or buy a controller so I can have more control.
You can splice the VTEC wire and oil pressure wire together if you use a controller and then ground the other wire to whatever? With no controller, the oil pressure line would be reporting info to the ECU to decide when to engage the VTEC, right?
So I guess now the dilemma is whether to let the ECU control VTEC or buy a controller so I can have more control.
You can splice the VTEC wire and oil pressure wire together if you use a controller and then ground the other wire to whatever? With no controller, the oil pressure line would be reporting info to the ECU to decide when to engage the VTEC, right?
the selonoid wire does that. the oil pressure wire tells the ecu if it is ok to go into vtec when the rpms rise. without oil pressure you wont have vtec. its a safety thing. my msd box and vtec controller are nice but what if you dont have good oil pressure? you wear out the cam and other head parts from not enough oil in vtec..but they last forever anyway. after i did a minime setup i spun a bearing after 4k miles. the d15b7 had 180k miles on it anyways.
hey bros now i got a 88 civic with a d16y5 motor iguess its the hx motor.. well the mexicans that i bought it off of they wired my vtec on a switch straight power and the wire for the vtec it worked but didnt hit hard kinda weak but the other day the switch shorted out and now i have no vtec kinda sucks.. does anyone know wat wire on the ecu i can splice that in to?
Hi,
I have a 94 Civic DX I plan on doing a psuedo mini me on. I have bought a head from a civic ex vtec. If I remove the oil jet between the cylinders do I need to do anything about oil pressure? Can I use throttle position to control the vtec as opposed to using rpm relay or changing my ecu. My main concern is having good fuel economy but I have a 3 mile long 7% grade to climb that more power would be welcome on my daily commute. Which distributor, timing belt, and head gasket should I be using?
Thanks for any advice from a new forumite,
Zak
I have a 94 Civic DX I plan on doing a psuedo mini me on. I have bought a head from a civic ex vtec. If I remove the oil jet between the cylinders do I need to do anything about oil pressure? Can I use throttle position to control the vtec as opposed to using rpm relay or changing my ecu. My main concern is having good fuel economy but I have a 3 mile long 7% grade to climb that more power would be welcome on my daily commute. Which distributor, timing belt, and head gasket should I be using?
Thanks for any advice from a new forumite,
Zak
all the Dseries headgaskets are the same i think, check part #s.
the way vtec works you have to have oil pressure to send signal to the solenoid to fire vtec(all figured out in the ecu)
there is a way to bypass this. get the msd rpm activator and hook that up to your dizzy and selonoid.
or you can wire a relay to the selonoid and have a vtec button
but up hill like that try for a bigger motor like a Bseries, more torque will help alot
the way vtec works you have to have oil pressure to send signal to the solenoid to fire vtec(all figured out in the ecu)
there is a way to bypass this. get the msd rpm activator and hook that up to your dizzy and selonoid.
or you can wire a relay to the selonoid and have a vtec button
but up hill like that try for a bigger motor like a Bseries, more torque will help alot
Thanks for replying Rick,
Will I see some horsepower gain with the ex head over my dx head? I have a 88 crx that I like a lot, especially crossing the country and getting 52 mpg fully loaded, a very tractable car at low rpms.
Zak
Will I see some horsepower gain with the ex head over my dx head? I have a 88 crx that I like a lot, especially crossing the country and getting 52 mpg fully loaded, a very tractable car at low rpms.
Zak
i did that too. a d16 head on a d15b7 block. i think its the cam that gives it all that extra power when your not even in vtec. i loved it. it was way more power feeling than the d15 head...until i spun a bearing. i guess d15s werent built for 8k rpm in every gear at every stop light every day...
i did that too. a d16 head on a d15b7 block. i think its the cam that gives it all that extra power when your not even in vtec. i loved it. it was way more power feeling than the d15 head...until i spun a bearing. i guess d15s werent built for 8k rpm in every gear at every stop light every day...
it will be less stressful to simply run the 2 wires either into your shock towers or straight to the ecu and let the ecu control vtec versus you. i think it'll be pretty dumb to need to flip a switch for da vtakz t0 PoP!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...Q5fAccessories < odb0 vtec subharness
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...Q5fAccessories < odb1 vtec subharness
OBD1 Vtec sub-harness to run VTEC in non-vtec car. The sub-harness includes a knock sensor/vtec solenoid/vtec switch connector. And three obd1 ecu pins. Instructions are included you can also email if you get stuck. This harness is plug and play no modifications of your wires. All wires have been soldered and heatshrink. They all have been tested and looked over.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...Q5fAccessories < odb1 vtec subharness
OBD1 Vtec sub-harness to run VTEC in non-vtec car. The sub-harness includes a knock sensor/vtec solenoid/vtec switch connector. And three obd1 ecu pins. Instructions are included you can also email if you get stuck. This harness is plug and play no modifications of your wires. All wires have been soldered and heatshrink. They all have been tested and looked over.


