My friend dropped his accord off today to have me try and figure out whats going on. When he drives it the car will just shut off and wont want to start unless you let it sit. He drove to my house only 3 miles and it shut off on him 4 times. In trying to figure this out I realized his service engine light didnt work so I had to replace the bulb (owner before probably got tired of seeing it on instead of fixing the problem) But now I dont know how to get the light to flash to give me the codes I even checked the Ecu to see if it had a led on it that blinked. On my civic its just a 2 wire plug you jump. Im thinking the whole problem is either the ICM (ignitor) or the Main relay. He has replaced plugs wires cleaned his fuel tank and I think thats all he has done.

 

there should be a two wire jump connector by the passenger kick panel

 

In a 94 Accord the Service Check Connector (SCS or 2 wire plug) is connected to the bottom of the glove box.



It is housed in a clip that should look like this



Here is the 2 wire SCS/jumper/short connector



These pictures are from a 96 Accord, the 94 is the same.

As for the frequent stalling/quitting I would point my finger at the main relay or the Fuel pressure regulator. Depending on if it is stalling (FPR) or quitting (Main R).

 

in my experience, the ignitor will cause the car to cut off while going down the road like you said... but usually it will not start afterwards. i've not see one fail and then work again, when they die they're dead for good.

check for codes and post what you get.

 

Now Im scared I found that connector before I posted this (under glove box 2 diffrent plugs connected to the blue clip) and I jumped it and the check engine light just comes on and stays on is that a bad ECU? On my 1994 civic My car would die out let it set and start and kept doing so for about 3 months then it stopped all together it was the ignitor. But like you said that was a fluke thing I have had 5 hondas in my life and thats the first time that has ever happend like that

So with the wire jumped check engine light stays on if I dont jump it and turn the key on it stays on for a min and goes out like normal if I start the car none jumped of course it stays on.

What stock Ecu does a 94 accord have?

 

Ok I just tryed somthing I started the car with the ecu jumped and while running it gave me 4 slow blinks and 1 fast right after Code 41??????? Isnt that a 02sensor so I know that cant be right but thats what its blinking while running lol. Light just stays on when jumped in the on position

 

If the CEL stays solid with the SCS jumped that means that there are no codes stored on the ECU. If there was no CEL at all with the SCS jumped that is a DCcode 0. Code 0 is the one for a faulty ECU.

FYI - DTCode 41 is for the O2 heater circuit not the O2 sensor itself. O2 sensor is DTCode 1.

If you say it's not the O2 sensor then I would say that it would be time to start looking at the main relay or FPR (fuel system).

 

With the vehicle in on position and jumped and Cel stays on its suppose to be no codes stored?

But with the car started not jumped Cel is on. So that means the computer has to be picking up somthing.So that means there is a code

If I dont jump and have the ignition on the Cel will come on and Go off like normal. Before starting.


Then with the vehicle Running motor going if I have the scs jumped the Cel will flash 4 long blinks and 1 real fast one

Thats why Im confused

 

Correct, if it stays solid with the jumper in No Stored Codes.

Is the CEL on with the car running and the SCS not jumped? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. If it vexes you that much you could test the O2 sensors heater circuit. However, A problem with the O2 heater circuit shouldn't cause consistent stalling or ignition failure.

 

When the car is running the Cel is on when its not jumped.

I dont think its a o2 code cause then it should give it to me when I have it jumped in the on position. I think when I have it jumped when the car is started and it flashes at me I think its telling my dont jump the scs while the car is running stupied lol


If there are no codes shouldnt the cel come on and go off like normal with the scs jumped while key is in the on position and if it stays on its code 0?

And what is a D-4 code is that only if the ecu has a led light? If so I dont think it applies to me right?

Whats the chances if My accord P0B Ecu is bad that I could hook up a spare P06 I have and at least pull the code that is causing all these problems for the car. If the ecu is bad it would just run in limp mode but wouldnt be stalling all the time right?

Thank you for all the help

 

It has been my experience that if the CEL is on when the car is oin normal operation. Then you jump it and it stays solid (no code) that means that there is a soft code and you will have to jump the SCS with the car running in order to get the code.

No you can jump the car with it running, that's how you set the base timing as well.

I am not going to post up the Self Diagnosis procedure pages of my Honda shop manual to verify what I have told you twice now. Here it is for the third time "A solid cel with the SCS jumped = No Stored Codes". If you don't believe me. Get yourself a Honda shop manual for the year Accord you are trying to fix & look it up yourself.

Does this car have an automatic transmission? If it is a 5sp manual transmission then you will not have to worry about any D4 codes. They are A/T codes only.

I'm done trying to help you. If you are not going to try and test any of the things that people are suggesting you test/check out. I highly doubt that it is the ECU. Not all engine problems show up as Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Such things as the Main relay and the FPR going bad will not cause a code to be thrown.

 

LOOK You dont have to be rude about it I was asking questions and on top of that you said test the fuel system and Main relay (main relay clicks with the key on at the same time you hear the fuel pump then the pump shuts of and the relay clicks again) Remember on my first post Main relay was one of my thoughts of what could be wrong. Fuel pressure is fine thats what my friend checked with a fuel pressure checker after he cleaned the tank and changed the fuel filter. Now you answered My question after me having to repost it I didnt know you could test the system with the car running not all cars let you do that I didnt know about soft codes and that the main relay wouldnt trip the light I just new somthing was keeping the service engine light on while driving and the 02 sensor wouldnt cause me to stall just run rich. So when saying there is no ECU code thats wrong there is its just a soft code. It is a auto tranny Thats why I was asking about a d-4 code. And excuse me about the Diagnostic code because while searching on the forum some people stated that the light staying on is a sign of a bad ECU If you want a link to it ILL send it. This is a help forum if you dont have the patience then I suggest step away from the computer take a min and take a deep breath.

 

Ok, now that everyone's all warm, fuzzy and getting ready to flame; let's try this....

When it quits, does it immediately restart or do you have to wait?
When it quits, do the dash warning lamps come on or do they remain extinguished?
When it quits, does it turn off as if someone turned off a switch or does it sputter and cough it's way to the curb?

P

 

When it stops all the lights come back on oil light battery light and such. If you try and start it right away it just cranks you have to wait about 2 min. I think it just shuts off he said it spudders. I havnt been able to get it to do it. I did a cheap check of the main relay while the car was running I took the case off around the relay and had a blow dryer running on it for about 5 min. So i dont think its bad Soldering. Maybe relay just messes up at a certain point. I do notice some times RPM will jump up and down if the car stays running for awhile it will jump from 8 to 1,500rpm and back down then when in drive it goes away.

Off Subject Sorry GhostAccord Maybe It was lack of information on my part I was just having a hard time understanding.

 

Ok It cut off on me just straight shuts off seems to do it more at higher rpms. While this happens If I turn the key on and Off I can feel the Master Relay clicking on and Off and It still has spark but just cranks over. Can the fuel Work and fail? Show a good reading and just fail?

My friend says he has the money and wants me just to replace the Master Relay and The FPR. But im not sure if I want to Because I dont know if it will fix the problem.

 

I suspect fuel delivery
When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?
I would address that first.
If the condition continues from there, have someone check fuel pump pressure AND volume.

P

 

Fuel filter was replaced and gas tank cleaned. The owner tested Fuel pressure and said it was good but Maybe I need to test it when it stalls and dosnt want to start. Maybe the faulty componet works and reads good pressure and then it fails and pressure lowers. Thanks for all your help

 

Ok I finally was able to pull a code and its code 16 fuel Injector (would only show code when problem accured) Im going to check the reading at the injectors with a ohm/Volt meter but do I need to do it when the car is having the problem since its intermittent? Also I orderd a new FPR off ebay for 50bucks and Im Debating on just buying the Main relay for 30 anyways. If a fuel injector is bad that wouldnt cause it to die out like that would it just one cylinder wouldnt be firing. Chances all injectors are bad are slim. So Im leaning twords those two things. However It might not mean anything but I put a blow dryer on the Main relay for awhile to heat it up and nothing happend I tapped the relay nothing happends and when the car dies and wont start back up just cranking I still hear the main relay click and the fuel pump go on and then the main relay will click again and fuel pump goes off. SO FPR?

 

Check the injectors and if you find that you are having trouble with more than one injector. Check the resistor box wire connections and test the resistor box itself.

 

I will do that. I will check it while its running normal and I will try and make the problem happen and then check it again. Sorry about before thanks for all your help.

 

No Problem, I just needed to get away from the computer and do some fab work. In other words I had to step away from the computer and take a deep breath. Just like you said.

 

LOL to much working on cars for me I have 3 projects 1969 Javelin SST 1994 civic and this accord. Plus my 4 kids and a wife lol Thank god for my beer. Any how My friends dropping off my meter tomarrow so Ill be able to check the injectors that resister box and the main relay better thanks again.

 

Ok I checked the fuel injectors they are all getting .5 volt when the car is running when it died I had somone cranking it over and still had .5 to .7 volts on each injector. Can a main relay be intemittent. It dies somtimes even if the vehicles not hot and its no more the 90% out side. I read here how to by pass the main relay should I try that or not? I didnt test the fuel injector resister box becaus all injectors work. Does the main relay only control the fuel pump?

 

No. The main relay is actually two.
One which powers the fuel pump, the second powers the ECM.

P

 

Should I try bypassing it like this site says? http://techauto.tripod.com/s.htm

FPR Should be in somtime this week bought a new one off ebay for 50 instead of 130 and autozone.

Also my grandfather did say it looked like it had weak spark when the problem happend but Im going to check that again. If it had weak spark It would at least pop I think. It just cranks Maybe I should spray either in it when she is just cranking over.

I re Solderd the main relay and she stalled on me again. Im stuck. I guess Ill see if the FPR is the problem.