So I had my engine tuned at like 70 degrees , weather changing all that nonsense..

Is there some math that I could use to come up with some safe values to toss in ECT and IAT corrections... Mainly IAT.. I'm not really sure how ECT has an affect on fueling...


Anyway I'm sorta looking for somewhat of a linear slope or hell the raw math of how Intake temp affects timing on an engine and tendency for knock if your tuned at the knock limit already, I think im about 31* advance at 8k on my H22 "all stock" ... well no IAB plates, no egr or that silliness..


Also no knock sensor "honda guys don't use knock sensors"

 

I do recall someone mentioning a ratio around 1deg per 10*C.

 

roughly 1% for 10*F for IAT but you shouldn't have to change the default settings unless you're getting really hot. like over 130*F IAT hot. what program are you using?

 

Hi ,

I'm using neptune.

Currently what I have is between 100-140 I have it pull 4 degrees, which was a guess..

There are no "Default settings" and I'm using Neptune.

Only thing honestly I can think of off the top of my head is globally pull timing 1 degree from idle all the way close to wot, but leave the initial wot tuned value set how it was when we tuned it.

However, I would like to add timing when its cold and lately the last 2 months its been getting to over 100 degrees outside and Iat ranges anywhere from 100 to 135 while parked in traffic, I have the neptune Tunerview so I glance down at what the engine is doing all the time.

As a "new tuner" learning all this on my own, I find it challenging to tune a car for max power yet still have it not have knock, I believe I need to pull timing in areas where there is high load and low rpm... anywho comments please.

Probably doesnt help when some *** hat put in 87 octane in my car, and I had to add some cheep octane booster and added denatured alcohol to the tank as well to try and compensate as the fuel levels get lower and get the CORRECT FSCKING gas in it :\

 

you're on the right track. not sure exactly what you're asking now though...

 

Honda IAT sensor correct tables are strange.

You may notice (in Hondata) that there are hi, medium, and low load comp tables. These are there to compensate for the intake air temp sensor being mounted directly in/on the intake manifold. When you are at low speed, the mainfold suffers of heat soak in the engine bay and your temperature sensor vaules can be skewed as a result. Honda apparently compensated for this and made different correction factors based on load and speed, to take in to account heat soak and how it can alter your air temp reading.

Generally speaking you dont need to mess with the base settings unless you believe there is a problem with it.

And also, remember, that your "31" degrees, might not be 31 degrees, as a matter of fact, it is likely not at all 31 degrees depending on the year of your H22.