All motor b series setup question
I have a question about a build i'm planning on here soon and i need some advice. Here is a basic run down of the build. Would you do anything differently?
Block:
82 x 89
Ls crank lightened and balanced
B18C1 block with oem girdle
Wiseco 12:5:1 high comp forged pistons
Eagle h-beam rods
ARP bolts
ACL race bearings
Itr oil and water pump
GE block guard
Toda timing belt
Head:
B16A2 base
ARP headstuds
Buddy Club Spec 4 cams
Ferrea Valvetrain with .5 mm over sized valves
Rmf header
JG performer x intake mani
RC 370cc injectors
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel reg
AEM fuel filter
Walbro 255
3" intake
65 mm throttle body
Skunk2 6 bolt cam gears
Misc:
Hasport solid motor mounts
ACT STAGE 1 clutch disk
ACT light weight fly wheel
new oem pressure plate
B16 tranny
It's going to be obd1 tuned on E85 and the s300.
Block:
82 x 89
Ls crank lightened and balanced
B18C1 block with oem girdle
Wiseco 12:5:1 high comp forged pistons
Eagle h-beam rods
ARP bolts
ACL race bearings
Itr oil and water pump
GE block guard
Toda timing belt
Head:
B16A2 base
ARP headstuds
Buddy Club Spec 4 cams
Ferrea Valvetrain with .5 mm over sized valves
Rmf header
JG performer x intake mani
RC 370cc injectors
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel reg
AEM fuel filter
Walbro 255
3" intake
65 mm throttle body
Skunk2 6 bolt cam gears
Misc:
Hasport solid motor mounts
ACT STAGE 1 clutch disk
ACT light weight fly wheel
new oem pressure plate
B16 tranny
It's going to be obd1 tuned on E85 and the s300.
Last edited by crazydominicanman; Aug 26, 2009 at 02:47 PM.
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why do you have oversized valves?
and which intake manifold are you using, a performer x with a professional products 68mm (i believe they are tapered) would work quite well.
and which intake manifold are you using, a performer x with a professional products 68mm (i believe they are tapered) would work quite well.
About the valves, more air = more power and i got a hell of a deal on the valvetrain. Yeah it's the performer x, i currently have an oem itr tb that i am going to sending to maxbore on thursday.
Last edited by crazydominicanman; Aug 25, 2009 at 07:33 PM.
well...no. without properly working the valve seat and redoing the chambers, oversize valves will only serve to hinder flow.
you also have a fairly large cam that will need decent adjustment on the dyno, and by having oversized valves you are limiting the clearance you have at high lift, thereby limiting your adjustment range, and further limiting the ability to maximize your power.
even further, it isnt a great idea to rev large valves very high, because again with the tighter clearances you increase the chance of hooking.
have you checked your valve to valve clearances yet?
you also have a fairly large cam that will need decent adjustment on the dyno, and by having oversized valves you are limiting the clearance you have at high lift, thereby limiting your adjustment range, and further limiting the ability to maximize your power.
even further, it isnt a great idea to rev large valves very high, because again with the tighter clearances you increase the chance of hooking.
have you checked your valve to valve clearances yet?
Get a professionaly products t.b 68mm for about 175 best bang for the buck.I had alot of probs with act and i switched to exedy and centerforce and love them idk just a builders prefrence.
also, make sure you lay an intake gasket over that manifold and check it, they used to be off a bit sometimes, along with making sure you port match it to the tb.
What I would do:
Port the head, mill the head to get your CR up to 13.5, ditch the oversized valves and get some aggressive cams w/ cam gears so you can degree them in. Sell your injectors for some 550's and run e85.
Port the head, mill the head to get your CR up to 13.5, ditch the oversized valves and get some aggressive cams w/ cam gears so you can degree them in. Sell your injectors for some 550's and run e85.
Last edited by kabaroo; Aug 26, 2009 at 09:31 AM.
I will eventually do some head work. The buddy club stage 4's are pretty agressive but i MAY look into some stage 5's and yes i am going to be running e85.
uh...bad idea
you dont want a bigger cam, you already wont be able to maximize the stage 4's most likely.
and btw...my 1.8 made more/equal power than a local 2.0 with the stage 4's. the skunk2 pro series cams are much better in my opinion.
you dont want a bigger cam, you already wont be able to maximize the stage 4's most likely.
and btw...my 1.8 made more/equal power than a local 2.0 with the stage 4's. the skunk2 pro series cams are much better in my opinion.
Well the stage 5's say you need at least 12:5 so i figure stage 4's are ok.
I've ran BC5's, two sets of custom cam profiles, Pro2's and Pro3's. Definately, definately run the Skunk2 Pro line. 20lb-ft of torque more at 3000rpm Pro3 vs BC5.
I would run the Pro2's on your 1.8, ditch the OS valves, get a Greddy belt instead of TODA (just as strong, half the price). The rest of the build looks fairly robust.
I would run the Pro2's on your 1.8, ditch the OS valves, get a Greddy belt instead of TODA (just as strong, half the price). The rest of the build looks fairly robust.
Bigger injectors is a must with the E85.
All the AEM fuel stuff is not needed, save you money.
I would look into Supertech for your valve train if you decided to not go oversided.
Make sure all you soft fuel lines are changed out to something that can handle E85. Stock Honda lines won't.
All the AEM fuel stuff is not needed, save you money.
I would look into Supertech for your valve train if you decided to not go oversided.
Make sure all you soft fuel lines are changed out to something that can handle E85. Stock Honda lines won't.






