ok i did some work on my engine and i had to take the timing belt off. well i thought i had botht the crankshaft and the cam shaft at top dead center. my cel is throwing codes 71, 72, and 73. These codes are misfires in the 2, 3, and 4 cylinders. Im assuminthis is because the cam shaft and crank shaft werent at top dead center like i thought. I drove it a few miles and it is knocking real bad and im HOPING that this is cause with the misfiring. Anyone got any ideas?

 

First synchronize the cam and crank perfectly at TDC1. Then go from there.

 

ok now i got the timing belt on with both on TDC. well when they werent on right it was starting and clicking. now that they are right the car wont even start. timing?? i thought it would at least start with the timing wrong but run like crap. any ideas. thanks guys.

 

Are the plug wires installed in the correct firing order on the distributor?

Do you have spark?

Does the fuel pump prime?

Is the CEL on?

 

yeah i have a chilton manual. the wires are correct. the cels still throwing 71 72 and 73. oh by the way thanks for the diagram of TDC, i didnt quite understand the one in chiltons. could it be the distributor?

 

Reset the ECU and crank the engine. Are those three codes thrown again?

Do you have spark at all four plugs?

Does the fuel pump prime?

 

does the fuel pump make a noise right before it starts?? if yes then yes it is priming. to see if i have spark i could stick a screw drver into the plug that goes onto the plug and touch the metal of the screw driver and see if it sparks right?? im about to go reset the ecu and check for spark. thanks for the help.

 

Here's how to check for spark.

When you turn the key to ON(II), you should hear the low humming noise of the fuel pump priming for 2 seconds in the rear (gas tank).

 

ok i have spark in all 4 cylinders. when i turn it on the hum sounds like its more or less coming from the front. havent reset the ecu yet.

 

i did some searching and see that someone else said on someone elses post that it could be that the rotor on the distributor that connects to the cam chaft could have been rotated 180 degrees when i took it out that might be it, im gonna try.

 

Remove the fuel filler cap and put your ear to the hole while a buddy turns the key to ON(II). Do you now clearly hear the fuel pump priming? If so, double check the mechanical timing. Posting pictures of the cam and crank at TDC1 would help. If the timing is fine, compression test the cylinders.

 

It would be difficult to install the distributor 180-degrees out of phase, but I guess it's worth checking. You also might want to check whether the fuel injector connectors have battery voltage with the key in ON(II).

 

ill have to do a compression test tomorrow. i know it was at tdc1 cause thats why it was knocking before.

 

ok i running. the distributor was the problem, like i said i turned it 180 degrees and it worked. only problem is now its still knocking/ticking.

 

thanks for the help ron

 

Can you explain how you installed the distributor 180-degrees out of phase? The end of the distributor that contacts the cam has an offset design that should prevent this from happening (see diagram).

Now you need to adjust the ignition timing to spec using a timing gun and having the 2p connector jumped.

 

No problem, though you seemed to have figured out the problem on your own.

 

well you see here, how do i explain howi got the offset ends mixed up. ummm... i was in a hurry, its dark, all good excuses but mostly i would say i was being an idiot haha. so could the knock be cause by the timing being off??

 

Sorry, I was not trying to ridicule you. Some people have mentioned installing the distributor out of phase, but I thought that the design prevented this from happening. Did you have to force the distributor on?

Possibly. If you are unable to set the ignition timing to spec, then the mechanical timing may still be off by a tooth.

 

oh i know, i was ridiculing myself haha. the first time i put it on i knew that but then i got in a hurry and forgot. just not looking forward to tomorrow taking the cover off again and messign with all that stuff again. ive been messing with it for like 5 days straight now non stop. its killin me

 

ive been searching everywhere for how to reset the 2p connector. where is it located and im assuming its jumped like the cel or is 2p just another word for the cel

 

nm found that it is the same thing in one of your other posts. thanks alot

 

Yes, you jump the same 2P (two pin) connector to pull CEL codes and to check the ignition timing.

To reset the ECU, pull the 7.5A Back Up fuse under the hood for a few minutes and then reinstall.

 

Change your spark plugs the wires the cap and the rotor if that doesnt help it might be ur ignition coil had the same problem but with cylinders 2 and 4 it was my wires. try that and if not it could be a bent valve

 

yeah i reset the ecu and my 71,72, and 73 codes went bye bye thank god. but still the knock. i almost wanna take it to honda tomorrow but i dont wanna spen cash on something i can probably just fix myself with a little extra time and effort