I have a 90 Integra "DA9". Im lookin' into modding it out. I already have DC Sports Header & Exhaust. Looking into put in an AEM Short Ram Intake. I would like to run about mid 14's at least. (any reasonable ideas?) I will probably end up swapping the engine with a GSR, but I want to work with what I have for now. Do you have Mod list and Spec for your DA? I want to get the best bang for the buck & would like to avoid turbo.

DONT SUGGEST THE LS-VTEC PLEASE!!!

 

nitrous is the best bang for the buck.

 

Im not going to go out and look for races. I want to have a fast daily to **** off the occasional jackass in a fast car. lol

 

For starters I would look to upgarding a couple pieces if suspension. A lot of people over look how much that actualy effects your ability to put down power. Second your off to a good start but your going to want an Intake manifold, Throttle Body, An ECU upgrade, and possibly some aftermarket cams, and some injectors. Going NA can be sweet, you just have to do it right.

 

I have Skunk2 Coilovers. I was thinkin about going with a Skunk2 intake manifold, but I was reading on somewhere that the manifold had to be modified a bit. (dont know if this is true). What do you guys recommend for the ECU mod? I would just pick up another one to keep an extra stock one.

 

will all i got is megan 4-2-1 wraped and rsr exmag exhasut and a ys1 gsr tranny with a 9 pound flywheel and a ebay 6 puck clutch kit ( pressure plate weak) and a injen cold air intake its ok never ran it at the tracks but when i do hoping to run low 15

 

The Skunk2 Intake Manny does need a little modding but nothing you couldn't manage. You need to get a throttle cable bracket from a V-tec motor. The non-vtec cable just sits a bit differently. But I think this is something they should include with the manifold. And I'm not 100% but I'm pretty sure most aftermarket intakes are going to be like this.

And as far as suspension you'll need to did a little deeper then just the coilovers. ES master bushing kit will help a bit, but you should consider things like a traction bar, lighter wheels, etc. etc. Dampening can play a big factor as well. A stiffer suspension can often times net you a bit faster run.

A quick N/A motor needs to breath. That is the purpose of the mods listed. Granted some header systems may pull you some more power through design, but in general they all function the same. Consider the way you breath. When you have a cold you roughly inhale, and barely exhale. It's like breathing through a straw. Now breath deep and exhale as well as you can. Feels a lot better now doesn't it? Your motor feels the same way with the stock system vs. a well placed aftermarket. And the cams will further inhance this system (you breathing on steroids). On a decent NA B18A/B you may be able hit 200 HP. Just do it all in steps.

 

I was also reading that I needed the fuel rail of a late model Teggy & fuel regulators for the Manifold. Is that really necessary? The manifold itself would end up costing... Lets say the Manifold is $250, fuel regulators $100, Fuel Rail $100. Wouldnt it be better to invest in another mod for the price of $450?

You're right about the cams, suspension & weight reduction. I am going to invest in that.

Do you think the car will pass smog with all these mods? Smogging is a Bit** in CA.

 

Ya, im thinkin about a b16 tranny. I hear they run damn good in these cars. Good Luck Hittin low 15's, thats enough to keep up with SI's, GSR's and beat them

 

As far as the smog testing, that is where your tune comes in. I personaly suggest Hondata. And yes the Manifold is worth it. But you may not pay $450 for it. See if you can source the parts. And no the fuel injectors can stay. I actualy have a link that tells you what need done I'll see if I can find it.

 

skunk2 manifolds go for under $300 shipped on ebay,
id also look into a lightweight flywheel (10lbs) and a stage 2 clutch,fidanza,clutchmasters,ect
a good exhuast should give u a little extra power,more more flow.
a good chip from your local racing shop should suffice as well.
shorter gears with your motor will do u justice as well, b16 would be great.
ls motors put down quite a bit of torque from stock specs.

 

What's a "fast car" to you? Your heavy (2600lbs!), underpowered (130hp) DA is not gonna beat anyone's idea of a "fast car" with simple bolt-ons. A B16 tranny will definitely help the situation (and that combo is very fun), but you'll be revving the **** out of that engine and it's not designed for that; it almost always feels like you're thrashing it. 4000+ RPM's cruising on the freeway when your redline is 6800...yuk. Fifth gear pulls nice though

If you don't plan on LS/VTEC or a turbo, you better be willing to build the **** out of your B18B1 or the B18C1 you plan to swap in. You're already between 400-600lbs heavier than an EF or EG hatch and you haven't done anything yet. If your idea is to **** off someone by leaving them in the dust...I hope you have A LOT of money because you'll need to build yourself a mighty all-motor beast.

 

with my da just lowered I/H/E i was running mid 15s now i have a built ls/v and ran a 14.594 at 95.78mph with LS trans and street tires, got a b16 trans with aftermarket LSD and a better header, can feel the difference in gears and pulls way better breathing through a bigger header, good luck with your build i wanna build a NA LS for autox later down the road have you looked into Brian Crower valvetrain and cams?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6KELf10oYE

 

Do more research before you make any decisions, don't listen to "I have this, or I have done that"! Every motor is diffrent.

 

his right we have a fat girl as a car and his right about the tranny my gsr tranny makes my LS motor screams on the high way at 4000 rpm doing 80 and redline at 6800 i get scread my car has 218,000 on her alot of mile to push her that hard BUT she takes the beating and we not that slow us DA give 2000 civic si run for there money and lude but a eg or a ef with a simple ls swap killing us

 

*scared* sorry type O

 

Yes. I order to "go fast" you will need to invest money. But you can be quick with simple bolt ons. And I have never been one for the whole swapping tanny thing. I don't know it's just not my bag, but you can look into different gears.

 

I put a H22 in mine. Although it's boosted, you should have fun with an NA H22.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/topendusas-da-teg-sfwd-build-2579560/

 

Well you want to know peoples setups, but only people running B18a/b NA?

Sorry to sound like a jerk, but thats a losing combination. you are far better off swapping in a gsr now and forget the lame b18. Mod the gsr and you'll enjoy the upgrades much more. Get a good platform first and then go from there.


Even though my setup isn't what your looking for here is just a very short list:

LS/Vtec
Fully built block-GE sleeved B18A (bored to 83mm, forged cp's, rods, etc)
B16 head (.5mm OS ferrea valves, ferrea full valvetrain, ctr cams, etc)
Turbo'd (sc61, topmount, full 3inch)

Too much to list and too much money to find end cost (it's well over $6000 now)

 

nitrous.. diff.. suspension... that'll get you in the 14's.

 

See now for over $6000 you could build a low 14 maybe even 13 sec N/A B18A. Ls/Vtec is way over rated. And for the cost he threw at a GSR motor his B18A could have some really nice mods. V-tec isn't everything.

 

Im talking about Si's and GSR's. I am planning to get in a JDM GSR swap with bolt ons, but It will be about 2 yrs before I get to that. Im a full time student in college & I work. Cash and time is in the essence with $500 dollar books every semester right now. The B18A1 engine on my car pulls (low 16's) stock. The Si's and Gs's pull between 15 & 16's depending on the driver. I should gain at least a second especially if the mods are used in conjunction.

 

I know. Ls-Vtec would be very costly with very low reliability "if not done correctly". The GSR price is dropping & is fairly avalilable now. My friend had a complete K20 swap in his EK Civic for $2500 with installation & very low milage. (JDM Swap)

 

The Ls-Vtec is very expensive now unless you already have the parts lying around and have the time to do it yourself. It would be better off going for the swap with prices going down on the GSR's.

 

I came up on a B18A1 with 100,000 miles for $300. The car was rear ended and everything is all good. I just had it installed