RonJ@HT HELP!!! Swapped distributors, now it won't start.
Hey, I hope you see this RonJ@HT. I finally had the opporttunity to check to see if I am getting spark and I AM GETTING SPARK. A buddy of mine and I have found that it cranks a couple times and then seems to "wined out". The starter continues to wind, but the motor or whatever does not. Is that normal? PLEASE HELP!!!
Here's my previous post if you dont remember:
I'm honestly not sure if anyone's gonna be able to help me because even some of the well respected "Honda guru's" that live in my area can't figure it out, but I figured I'd try. Maybe by some miracle someone else has had this same problem and will be able to help me fix it or simply offer a little advice. I deffinetly don't consider myself as knowledgable about Honda's as I would like to be so there's deffinetly a possibility that I'm not seeing something,
Here's what I'm working with- I have a 94 Civic EX coupe. It originally cma with a D16Z6 and I just dropped in an obd2 B18C. I am using a obd1 p72 and used the obd1 harness that came in the car and just spliced whatever pugs I needed to like the alternator and the injectors. I am also using the PasswordJDM jumper harness for the distributor.
I DID GET IT RUNNING and got check engine light codes-4(crankshaft position sensor), 7(TPS), and 41(heated O2 sensor heater). I think I've got codes 7 and 41 taken care of, but in an attempt to fix code 4 I went ahead and traded my obd2 distributor with a friend for his obd1(because I was told this would fix it). Well, somehow in the simple process of me taking off the obd2 and bolting on the obd1, something happend and now it wont start. I immediatly thought it was a bad obd1 distributor so I swapped back and put the obd2 back on and it still wont start.
When I turn the key, I can hear what sounds like the distributor "winding", but I'm not getting the actual "cranking" sound. I thought maybe I got the ignition wires mixed up so like an idiot I went off Hanes manual for the firing order and it was ofcourse wrong. So, then when I went to start it, something "popped". Not really sure what it was, but hopefully it wasn't anything major. I did finally get the wires all sorted out and on in the right order thanks to Rywire.com, but I'm still having the same problems. I've checked all my fuses and even had the started tested at the local Autozone and it checked out okay,
I am at a loss and cannot understand why it won't start now. Has anyone else had this problem or could tell me where to start? PLEASE HELP!!!
Here's my previous post if you dont remember:
I'm honestly not sure if anyone's gonna be able to help me because even some of the well respected "Honda guru's" that live in my area can't figure it out, but I figured I'd try. Maybe by some miracle someone else has had this same problem and will be able to help me fix it or simply offer a little advice. I deffinetly don't consider myself as knowledgable about Honda's as I would like to be so there's deffinetly a possibility that I'm not seeing something,
Here's what I'm working with- I have a 94 Civic EX coupe. It originally cma with a D16Z6 and I just dropped in an obd2 B18C. I am using a obd1 p72 and used the obd1 harness that came in the car and just spliced whatever pugs I needed to like the alternator and the injectors. I am also using the PasswordJDM jumper harness for the distributor.
I DID GET IT RUNNING and got check engine light codes-4(crankshaft position sensor), 7(TPS), and 41(heated O2 sensor heater). I think I've got codes 7 and 41 taken care of, but in an attempt to fix code 4 I went ahead and traded my obd2 distributor with a friend for his obd1(because I was told this would fix it). Well, somehow in the simple process of me taking off the obd2 and bolting on the obd1, something happend and now it wont start. I immediatly thought it was a bad obd1 distributor so I swapped back and put the obd2 back on and it still wont start.
When I turn the key, I can hear what sounds like the distributor "winding", but I'm not getting the actual "cranking" sound. I thought maybe I got the ignition wires mixed up so like an idiot I went off Hanes manual for the firing order and it was ofcourse wrong. So, then when I went to start it, something "popped". Not really sure what it was, but hopefully it wasn't anything major. I did finally get the wires all sorted out and on in the right order thanks to Rywire.com, but I'm still having the same problems. I've checked all my fuses and even had the started tested at the local Autozone and it checked out okay,
I am at a loss and cannot understand why it won't start now. Has anyone else had this problem or could tell me where to start? PLEASE HELP!!!
Last edited by mugenEJ1_777; Aug 22, 2009 at 10:20 AM.
Hey, I hope you see this RonJ@HT. I finally had the opporttunity to check to see if I am getting spark and I AM GETTING SPARK. A buddy of mine and I have found that it cranks a couple times and then seems to "winds out". The starter continues to wind, but the motor or whatever does not. Is that normal? PLEASE HELP!!!
That has nothing to do with a distributor...
i never said that the distributor was the problem. i just said that the problem came about after i tried switching to an obd1 distributor. understand?
try check the main ground wire, the wire to the starter ,and the ecu fuse and check all harness connections and pins on the distributor plugs and sockets
Check your timing?
I had a similar problem a few years ago. I put a distributor on 180 degrees the wrong way (the little guy with the two teeth got spun around while I had it off,) as soon as I fired it up it went way the hell out of time. I was getting spark when there was no fuel and fuel when there was no spark, sounded like my motor just whined instead of cranking. Got my timing back in order, put the dizzy on the right way, and it fired up instantly.
I had a similar problem a few years ago. I put a distributor on 180 degrees the wrong way (the little guy with the two teeth got spun around while I had it off,) as soon as I fired it up it went way the hell out of time. I was getting spark when there was no fuel and fuel when there was no spark, sounded like my motor just whined instead of cranking. Got my timing back in order, put the dizzy on the right way, and it fired up instantly.
dude, just went and looked at my cam gears and it apears that the "UP" arrows dont line up exactly the same. my timming is probably off, huh? crap, i didnt even think about that.
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youve had Honda Guru's in your local area take a look and didnt notice that? even when they are both marked in yellow???
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From: 30 min. north of Owen Sound, Ontario, Canada
OMG.. ........ lol
the guru's in your area... well.. I don't need/want to say anything.. lol
get the timing right, right away.., and get someone who knows how to work on Honda engines if you did that in the first place.
If you didn't damage the valves from trying to start the car, you'd be the luckiest one I've seen so far.
the guru's in your area... well.. I don't need/want to say anything.. lol
get the timing right, right away.., and get someone who knows how to work on Honda engines if you did that in the first place.
If you didn't damage the valves from trying to start the car, you'd be the luckiest one I've seen so far.
i cant see the pic duder but. the cam gears make sure they are up. but dont line up the UP. have them up and line up the "marks" horizontal on the cam gears, horizontal to the head. he has a gsr motor. the dizzy can only go on 1 way.you cant put it on 180* the other way.
are the grounds factory? slap me for saying this but do this
get new thick engine grounds on clean surfaces. ryans car didnt start (new ground) then it started.
get new thick engine grounds on clean surfaces. ryans car didnt start (new ground) then it started.
i cant see the pic duder but. the cam gears make sure they are up. but dont line up the UP. have them up and line up the "marks" horizontal on the cam gears, horizontal to the head. he has a gsr motor. the dizzy can only go on 1 way.you cant put it on 180* the other way.
thanks everyone for all the feedback, i got it running! dont ask me how, but my timing got off. i got that all straightend out and it fired right up.
the weird thing is now im not getting a CEL #4 (crankshaft position sensor), gut i am still getting CEL #7 (TPS) and CEL #41 (o2 sensor, heater sensor). any thoughts?
I am running a skunk2 intake manifold and a test pipe. are these things somehow causing it?
the weird thing is now im not getting a CEL #4 (crankshaft position sensor), gut i am still getting CEL #7 (TPS) and CEL #41 (o2 sensor, heater sensor). any thoughts?
I am running a skunk2 intake manifold and a test pipe. are these things somehow causing it?
that different obd dizzy will fix that code 4. it will run better when you switch mr. haro back dizzies. chip your ecu and get a chip that tells the o2 sensor to shut up thats what i did in that minime i had. you know the chip where you drop vtec and take off the speed limitor. the tps code..well you have to check the pins in the ecu for that and check any fraid wires etc.
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