hey guys i've run out of things to check, my dad has a 94 accord ex and it's been running like crap up until yesterday where it actually just shuts off after starting. we replaced the cap/rotor and it helped for about 2-3 weeks then started all over again.

Before replacing the distributor i followed the service manual and performed the tests for the ckp. ( see attachment )

When I connected my multimeter to b15/b16 i got a reading of like 920 or something like that which is ok because its a f22b1 engine and should be between 700-1300 ohms.

So I moved to the next step and this is where it went down hill lol. I checked for continuity, from each pin to body ground and the read out on my mulitmeter stayed at 1 meaning infinite which also means open circuit correct?????

Since there's no continuity i moved to the next step (if there was continuity it said replace distributor). So I re-connected the 8 pin connector and dug out the ecu from the passenger side, pulled out the B connector and probed the b15/b16 female pins and got no reading at all it just stayed at 1 on my mulitmeter which means again i have an infinte reading or a open circuit.......sooooooooo does that mean a wire is messed up and how the hell did that happen? should I do anything else to test this mess of a headache and am i even testing this right? any help I'd appreciate it. thanks.

 

wow no one has anythin? well did everything i could and went ahead and ordered a new dizzy

 

Well I put a new distributor in, new plugs, new battery, and checked plug wires. Also checked wiring and didn't see anything abnormal and also checked vacuum hoses, all looked good.

Symptoms:
bogging
hard start
wants to shut off at some points
won't start at all sometimes
rough idle
rev limit seems to be cut to ~3500 rpms
and still throwing cel#4

Im totally lost on what to do next, need some help guys i know someone out there had the exact problem and got it solved. please! lol

 

cel #4 CPS, dont know much about it, but have you tried replacing that?

 

the sensor is in the distibutor which i replaced when i bought a new distributor so it's brand new.......if theres a wire short some where i have no idea where to look.

Does anyone know if the idle air control valve affect the sensor? I read it has similiar symptoms of stalling, hard starts and rough idle even those the code (code 4) isn't refering to the iacv?

 

Well guys here's an update, i need help! I replaced the whole dizzy with a new one, set the timing with a gun and have it set perfectly, put new battery, new egr, few new other parts. The car runs and feels perfectly normal except for the fact that the cel is still on and throwing the same code. the rev limiter was cut down to 3500 and won't shift into last gear. for whatever reason the car is in stuck in limp mode. The mechanic around my way can't figure it out either.

I reset the computer and it still pops up, it has a new ckp sensor cause it has a new dizzy, all symptoms went away except for not being able to pass 3500k.

any ideas? only thing i can think of is getting a used ecu on ebay (don't know anyone for a swap to test it temporarily) and see if that works. other than that im totally clueless and burnt out. please help cause i want my dad to have the car running good before winter comes.

btw its an AT if i didnt mention it before.

 

Hey just curious if you ever got it fixed? I’m currently having the exact same problem right now I’ve literally done everything