Getting ready too buy some D2 coils , idk if they even come with custom spring rates, but if they do and recommendations for a decent spring rate for daily.

I don't mind a bit on the stiff side but I'd like it too be a Lil less harsh if it can be with a different spring rate, if that's even possible.

Not gonna be doing much tracking with it, so any kinda softer ride I can get would be nice

Appreciate some help, thanks.

 

How low are you planning to go?

 

x2, ride height plans will help us help you

 

Ahhh, that's a good question.

Perhaps 1.3in, its adjustable height.

I don't want nothing tucking or crazy like that, just a subtle lowering to close up the wheel gap a bit

I'm not sure on exact measurements for lowering , I can only give end result looks for that answer, sorry.

But like I said nothing crazy.

 

350F 300R would be a great starting place for that level of drop. 400F 350R if you plan on going flush

 

When you say flush....you mean tire to fender?

Thanks man...thats what i was looking for

 

flush means no gap, the top of the tire is even with the fender lip which 400/350 would work great. if you have a solid 1 finger gap 350-300 will be fine.

 

Ahhh....ok, thanks.

 

that's solid info for ya right there.

 

So I called and asked what the rates was for D2s and stock it was 12F and 8R. What does that convert too in ur 350F 300R suggestion?

 

it's close to 750/450. on street tires and more than a few places on the highway your car will be airborne with rates like that. on the street you actually want the car slightly loose so the wheels stay in contact with the road. if the shocks are adjustable running with less rebound would help but those rates are still too much to be quick on the street.

recently i've been tuning a 500/430 combo with a 19mm ST rear bar & koni sports. on the street, the car is actually slower with the shocks cranked to firm. sure, bodyroll is gone on a 200 tread street tire but it's a fairly unnerving feeling when you're on a back road going into a 20mph corner at 45 or so and the tires are actually skipping during braking and corner exit

IMHO you're buying the wrong combo, get the koni/gc combo from thmotorsports.com, you can choose your rate and get a shock that has more than enough dampening for any street spring. the lifetime warranty is also a major bonus.

 

Im looking for a flush look on my em1...looking to get the FF type 1 or Blox..Does anybody know their spring rates..looking for that "400/350" can i dial the FF1s or blox to those rates??

 

is there some reason you don't want to use koni? the shocks are better and springs are beyond easy to get for them

 

Good info here....thanks for setting me straight

 

I guess i never really thought or knew about the shock/spring combo. Im kinda of new when it comes to suspension. I guess i wouldnt know the combo to get. Like your saying a koni shock with 400/350 spring rate and throw some say progress lowering springs? Are koni shocks adjustable? I guess how ive seen it is coils is the best performance easiest bc it comes all in one..

 

konis are totally adjustable and extremely high quality {oem on cars like the ferrari f40}. ground controls are just a conversion kit that allows them to become true coilovers. this means you can buy custom spring rates. the koni sport also has valving that can handle any spring someone could ever want to run with street tires. there's no way you could outdrive these on non R tires. as far as spring rates go i could give you better advice if you knew what your goal was and what tires you were using. tires have a huge impact on what rate you choose, same with ride height

 

link worth reading http://www.redshiftmotorsports.com/R...ech%20Page.htm

by the way, the reason i tell most of you guys to go 50lbs lighter out back is A: it provides a hint of understeer and actually can provide oversteer very easily if you brake and turn. B: it's an easier combo to get use to. a rear bias spring or large rear bar has benefits in autocross since it gets the car rotating that much easier. i just don't want to see you guys wreck your cars on the street. i figure if you get to the point you go rear bias, you already have an idea of what you're doing. there is another point in this article i wanted to point out to you guys. run the front shocks light. too stiff of compression and rebound up front keep the front end from diving and reduce both grip and the ability to brake. i actually learned from trial and error to back off the front shock settings.

 

I have an EM1 with new dunlop direzza dz101 195/55/15 on 15in rota grids. looking for around 2in+ drop. Flush on some days. i was looking at the PICs apex and they have 8k/6k and 10k/8k..what does that convert to? i heard someone say that 400/350 is a flush look. My question is when you get say for example the 8k/6k rates theyre only set at that rate and not adjustable? or the 8k/6k is the most it can go??

 

you really aren't grasping this stuff

8k-6k are spring rates. 8k translates to 450lb/in this means you need 450lb to move the spring one inch. where you set ride height has zero to do with spring rate. we simply mean you want a spring this stiff if you ride flush so you don't ground pound. with the dz101 8k-6k rates are plenty stiff, i would not go any higher. you may even have problems feeling the tires at the limit with these rates. stickier tires would help, in dunlop world that means the sport maxx or better star spec. before you buy anything ask yourself if you could make a pitch to someone on why it's the best value for your dollar. i easily can on the koni gc combo for $800, in the same light penske and moton own the high end market, great values for what they do

 

so then the spring rates are say 8k/6k thats what they are permentant or you can adjust that? i was also asking on another thread what dampening adjustment means and what its benefits are. but more so just wanting to clear out the spring rate deals

 

a spring rate is just that, it's how hard the spring is to compress. imagine a car on a 100lb/in spring, you push on it, drive it or have sex with the dashboard. it moves so much. now we try 200lb/in, now when you hump the dashboard it moves less since there is more spring pressure. as far as shock adjustment goes. having a shock that can adjust in the range of spring you run helps dial in the dampening. when people say konis run out of adjustment at 600lb/in they just mean that above that the shocks aren't controling the spring to their liking. the biggest problem with some of the low dollar coilover {besides them blowing up} is what the adjustment does. sometimes it isn't much. i have a 2600LB DC2 with 500lb/430lb rates on konis. the adjustment is mandatory. if i couldn't back the valving off for street driving the car actually gets so stiff that it skips when i'm cornering on rough roads. going into a 20mph corner at 45 hearing your tires chip, not from being at the limit but from actually being out of touch with the road is not fast, it actually gets kind of scary. backing the valving off lets the suspension react faster and stay in touch with the road. when you get adjustable shocks your best bet is to start at full soft, drive on a place away from people where you can do a lot of 20-50mph cornering at the limit. racetrack, abandon parking lot etc. bring the valving up until you like the feel of the car. you almost always set the rear tighter than the front in a FWD car btw

 

stiffness/spring rate is totally seperate from ride height correct? how/where do you adjust the rate?? pics maybe

 

pics as in pictures that is not pic the coilover..haha..but if you know where on that then hey!

 

you still aren;t getting this. when a spring is wound it has a specific rate. think thicker steel versus thinner. it's just saying how stiff the spring is

 

Definitely in the 350-430f 300-400r range for a fun yet fairly comfortable/tolerable ride.