long time reader, first time writer. heh. i just finished wiring my z6 head on my 90 hatchback std.. my p28 ecu is throwing a code one for o2 sensor and a code 26 for injectors. i had everything wired correctly and changed my main relay a two times. i used a stethascope and listened on the injectors and im not sure what the clicking is supposed to sound like.. loud clicking or light clicking? iv tried my ecu in a friends car and it ran fine. any ideas what the problem could be?


i just tried wiring the injectors straight from the ecu to the motor and still the same code and no start..

 

bump.. the sun is going down.

 

What route did you go with for the injectors?
Did you use OBD-0s and keep the resistor box
or
OBD-1s and delete the resistor box?

Check your distributor.

Check your O2 wiring.

 

im using obd1 injectors from a eg 4 door from the junk yard. not sure what model but i dont think it matters.

my buddy put 12v straight to the injectors to test them and you could hear them slap open, i figured that didnt hurt em. i think they only run off like four ohms though right?.. if anything it broke them in from not being used for years.

i also put a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires on. i have spark.

im pretty sure the distributor has nothing to do with injector pulse though.. is this correct?

any more ideas or questions about this problem would be appreciated. thanks

 

no resistor box.. btw.

and the car should still start without an o2 sensor anyway.. i can deal with that problem after i get the car running

 

i don't believe that the P28 has a code 26??

 

Maybe he means code 16?

 

Distributor triggers your injectors and your spark plugs.
Can you take a pic of your cap/wires - want to see if you got the right order.

O2 really easy wiring so I'm surprised it's triggering a code. Since it is triggering, it might be telling you that you have some wires done wrong and in turn it won't start.

If you pull the plug wires and crank it over a few times, do you smell fuel in all cylinders when you pull the spark plugs out?

Good call jliCRX, there is no 26.
Thinking he meant 16.

 

i definitly meant code 16.. sorry. the funny thing is i do smell fuel in the cylinders when i pull the plugs.. i light smell of fuel. but iv also sprayed a little starter fluid in the intake mani and i get a very slight sputter ike it wants to start. is it common for injectors to go out? im probably just going to the junkyard saturday to pull a bunch of injectors. im hoping its just injectors and not ecu..

let us pray..

 

i cant get a pic right now but if your looking directly at the distributor from the passenger side fender the plugs are in a diamond form.. as opposed to a square if that makes sense..? a top plug wire, a left and right side plug wires and a bottom plug wire.. starting from the top going clockwise the order is #3, #4, #2, #1.

sory theres no pic heh, but im sure you guys know what im talking about.. is this the right order?

 

is your timing right?
you might need to adjust the timing

 

timing is good.. i have an aem tru time cam gear advanced 4.5 degrees or so to compensate for the half a tooth the belt is off.. this is killing me. iv been trying to get this running on and off for 6 months. iv had alot of projects over the years and i get pissed at this damn car alot so i stop messing with it for a while til i get back in the mood.. kinda like a girlfriend or something.

 

Do you have power (B+) on what use to be the RED/BLACK wire at the injectors? The other wire at each injector should flash as the eng is cranked. Best to use a LEDiode with a 220-Ohm resistor, a normal test light might over load the driver in the computer.
Repair manual says substitute a known-good ECU.

What's the fuel pressure? Is there gas in the tank?

 

Why is your timing a half tooth off? I would try out another dizzy also

 

his timing is half a tooth off because the deck height is shorter on d15's compared to d16's, so the cam rotates too soon if you time it to stock. that's what you either use a y7/y8 gear (what i did when put an a6 cam in my b1) or you get an adjustable one.

 

Does the firing order look like this? From the way you were explaining it, it sounds like they are switched around, or I might have read it incorrectly.

 

i have good gas in the tank.. and i have an aem ajustable fpr.. i know how to ajust it i just dont know where an ideal setting would be for it. i dont know how to check for fuel pressure, but iv taken the bolt out of the fuel filter and i definitly have gas getting to the fuel rail.

so if im testing for injector pulse, i test the red/blk wire on the clip or the brown/red/blue/yellow wire?

i also jsut put my p28 in my buddys car and it cranked right up.. and his car stopped smoking too lol. so im borrowing his p72 to see if that will start my car for any reason. its a known good ecu as well.


**to dephtone.. i have a z6 head so my distributor isnt quite like that.. but the plug wires are in the right order. my distibutor is more advanced or retarded than the one in the picture.. not sure which. i will try to post a pic soon but im pretty sure theyre correct.

thank you all for the help btw.. im f****** inches from getting my baby started, heh

 

so im going to the junkyard tomorrow and see if i can get some spare parts to maybe fix this issue. on my list so far of probable solutions is:

distributor
injectors
main relay

iv tried the p72 and my car is still not starting so im positive its not the ecu. any more suggestions before i go out the the j/y tomorrow morning well be awesome. thanks duuuuuudes...

 

try the fuel pressure regulator. that could be your problem.

 

If you are running obd1 make sure you soldered all the wires together on the resistor box plug.

 

You said when you sprayed starting fluid you got a reaction. That leads me to think it's a fuel problem. I would switch to brake cleaner (it's mostly alcohol and isn't as hard on the eng as starting fluid) pop the intake hose off near the throttle body open the throttle and spray for 2-3 seconds into the intake. Quickley put the tube back on the throttle body and crank it, if it starts for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel problem. Put the hose back on the T.Body before cranking incase it back fires thru the intake so you don't have a Fire to deal with.

If you hook a test light from the side of the connector that goes from the injector to the PCM it should flash when you crank the eng. If not check power to the injectors at the other terminal on the injector.

If you hook a test light from the wire that comes from the ign switch to ground it should be on solid. If not try a jumper from batt(+) to the this wire & crank it.

When it was stock there was a blue wire from the dist that goes to the tach/cruise control, connecting a test light from here to ground the light should flash when you crank the eng.

The white wire from the dist to the PCM is/was the stock signal to the computer. It should flash when cranking the eng.

The Black/yellow wire is the power to the ign.coil and Igniter Unit.

To check fuel pressure you need a gauge designed for it with an adapter that is made for your car.

I hope this helps

Rick

 

thanks man, that helps a ton. i have power to the injectors now, i got a few extra main relays from the junk yard. it turns out that was my first poblem at hand, although i replaced it three times already. then i was smelling horribly bad gas and still getting no start. i had just added fuel to what i thought was an empty tank a week ago, so i took off a fuel line at the fuel filter and ran the fuel pump for a while. i added more gas and i turned the stater til she fired up.. finally.

i still have an o2 code and when the car runs, it purges bad and thick white smoke comes from the exaust and the intake port on the valve cover. i ajusted the fpr,so that is good now. im not sure if its the bad o2 sensor that is making it purge.

now i know this is a no-no, but i have two rubber hoses still disconnected and no coolant running through the motor. i only had the car started for a minute or so, i figured i was safe with the temp.

can you guys please help me with these hoses so i can get coolant in my car? one hose is coming from the back of the block just below where the head seats, the outlet comes out at an upward slanted motion and the hose connected to it is in a "U" shape.. i believe it is for coolant but not sure where it leads to, i cant see under the manifold too well.

the second hose comes out from the bottom of the back of the intake mani, i believe its about an inch away from where the mani mates to the head.

when i plug these hoses with my finger the motor shuts down within a few seconds.

keep in mind this is a d15 88-91 block with a z6 92-95 vtec head. any help with these last few problems will be greatly appreciated! im damn excited iv finally got it running after two years of sitting!!!

 

i have a question need an answer what has more potential a str8 d16 z6 or a d16 z6 head on a d15 b7 block?