Need Help with new rebuild
Hello everyone, I have a 2000 CRV with a B20Z that had 213,000 miles when the motor blew. I pulled the motor and had it rebuilt. The machine shop bored it .020. I alsp needed a new head since the original had 5 cracks in it, all from the spark plugs out. The motor ran great but it burned oil, a lot of oil. I was going through 3 quarts of oil every 2000 miles. I ended up putting 15,000 miles while working with the machinest trying different things he suggested. He finnally told me to pull the motor and bring it back and he would rebuild it again. He really didn't find anything wrong with the rebuild but, he thought it was the oil rings. It also had 2 bent valves, he said the carbon was built up on top of the pistons so much that it bent the valves. I have got the motor back and installed and now have about 1200 to 1300 miles on it. At first it seemed to be working really well. At about 300 miles I needed to add a little oil but, really didn't think anything about it. Just figured it was break in. Since then I have been checking the oil daily and it seems to go for days with no oil burning but then all of the suddon it uses a little bit of oil. This has happened twice now and is making me very nervous. Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be happening? I was told by a co-worker that at 1500 miles I will need to do a valve adjustment. Could this be the reason for the oil burning?
I am very sorry about the length of this but I am very nervous and hoping to find some answers. I dropped a lot of money into the car and don't want it to be a waste.
Thanks in advance.
I am very sorry about the length of this but I am very nervous and hoping to find some answers. I dropped a lot of money into the car and don't want it to be a waste.
Thanks in advance.
It seems like a better option would have been to get a used engine from an online vendor.
Valves that are in need of adjustment will not cause the engine to burn oil. I have never heard of so much carbon on the pistons that it will cause P2V contact, sounds like your machinist/engine builder is hosing you. I have also never heard of rings wearing out in 15k miles on a factory style rebuild.
Valves that are in need of adjustment will not cause the engine to burn oil. I have never heard of so much carbon on the pistons that it will cause P2V contact, sounds like your machinist/engine builder is hosing you. I have also never heard of rings wearing out in 15k miles on a factory style rebuild.
i think your machinist did not assemble or machine the engine correctly. it should not be consuming that much oil after a rebuild.
stop wasteing you time and money and just find a used low mileage engine to swap in.
good luck.
stop wasteing you time and money and just find a used low mileage engine to swap in.
good luck.
The machinest actually has a very good reputation. As far as buying a low mileage motor I was having a hard time finding a B20Z with low mileage that was comparable in price on what I originally thought the rebuild was going to cost. I originally was expecting to spend about $1000 but, I kept adding things for him to do. And then the head was an unexpected cost as well.
With this new rebuild I am only burning a little bit of oil so far but, with it being a new rebuild I don't think I should be burning any.
With this new rebuild I am only burning a little bit of oil so far but, with it being a new rebuild I don't think I should be burning any.
Your link shows a B20B not a B20Z. From my understanding the B20Z has more HP. The B20B is available all over but the B20Z is much harder to find and is more expensive.
At this point I still don't think it is worth buying a used motor since I have put all this money into the original and still have a warranty. Something must be going on with it to cause it to be burning the oil but, I just don't know what it is. I don't see any smoke so I can't tell if it is burning during acceleration or deceleration. From my understanding that would tell me if it was rings or valves.
On the original rebuild I had great compression. I was between 180 and 185. So I would think it was not the rings but, the head was all rebuild as well. The only thing that I don't know is since the head was replaced did I get a head from a B20B or B20Z. And does it even matter. I don't know if there is a difference.
At this point I still don't think it is worth buying a used motor since I have put all this money into the original and still have a warranty. Something must be going on with it to cause it to be burning the oil but, I just don't know what it is. I don't see any smoke so I can't tell if it is burning during acceleration or deceleration. From my understanding that would tell me if it was rings or valves.
On the original rebuild I had great compression. I was between 180 and 185. So I would think it was not the rings but, the head was all rebuild as well. The only thing that I don't know is since the head was replaced did I get a head from a B20B or B20Z. And does it even matter. I don't know if there is a difference.
You should just buy one on E-Bay it is kinda pricey but the mileage is fair.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33615
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33615
Trending Topics
B20B
* 1996-1998 specs
* NON-VTEC
* Found in: USDM and JDM Honda CR-V, Honda Orthia
* Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
* Power: 126 hp (94 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
* Torque: 131 ft·lbf (178 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
* Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
* Compression: 8.8:1 or 9.2:1
* Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
* Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
* Redline: 6300 rpm
[edit] B20B / B20Z
* 1999 - 2000 specs
* NON-VTEC
* Found in: USDM CRV as a B20Z, JDM Honda CR-V and Honda Orthia as a B20B
* Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
* Power: 146 hp (109 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
* Torque: 133 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
* Rod length: 137 mm (5.394 in)
* Compression: 9.6:1
* Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
* Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
* Redline: 6300 rpm
* 1996-1998 specs
* NON-VTEC
* Found in: USDM and JDM Honda CR-V, Honda Orthia
* Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
* Power: 126 hp (94 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
* Torque: 131 ft·lbf (178 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
* Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
* Compression: 8.8:1 or 9.2:1
* Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
* Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
* Redline: 6300 rpm
[edit] B20B / B20Z
* 1999 - 2000 specs
* NON-VTEC
* Found in: USDM CRV as a B20Z, JDM Honda CR-V and Honda Orthia as a B20B
* Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
* Power: 146 hp (109 kW)) @ 5400 rpm
* Torque: 133 ft·lbf (180 N·m) @ 4300 rpm
* Rod length: 137 mm (5.394 in)
* Compression: 9.6:1
* Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
* Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
* Redline: 6300 rpm
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