hey guys.

started putting my new b20 together today! (finally)
bearings all fine on the crank etc etc

going to do the pistons tomorrow. looking around some people insist on just using plain engine oil on the rings before they go in, others say assembly lube, others just plain wd40.
any ideas as to what i should be using?

 

nothing on the rings, use regular 5w30 on the cylinder walls. make sure to gap your rings properly also.

and assembly lube is for bearings and cams only

 

use oil on the rings. and in the rod b, i hoped you did on the main b. also prime the oil pump as best as you can just add oil in it. and make sure you put a new frount main seal and rear main seal.

 

and use 5w30 non synthetic for brake in for about 500-1,000mi than u can use syntec

 

actually i was planning on using a straight 30w non detergent oil for the first few changes.
,and alot seem to recommend it. but looking on theoldones page they say they just use wd40 on the pistons and go right from there and let the oil system do the rest??

 

using oil on the bearings is dumb...just get some assembly lube

I usually will spray the cylinder walls with wd40 just to aid in assembly. It makes everything slide around a little easier when your turning the crank to install the other 2 piston/rod.

I usually will lube the ring compressor also, it helps it slide in a little smoother too

disable the injectors when priming the pump or you run the risk of washing the cylinders and contaminating your oil with gas

 

man either way will be fine, your overthinking it

just dont forget to oil your wristpins or you WILL be sorry. assembly lube or 5w30 is fine. NO WD

 

you DO NOT need to prime your oil pump. its not a chevy

simply use assembly lube on the bearings, cams and wristpins and regular 5w30 on the cylinder walls.

if you dont have assembly lube you can use regular 5w30 or preferably a thicker oil on the bearings, cams and wristpins. you will be fine.

again, no need to prime the oil pump, you wont see oil pressure until the engine is runing anyway, cranking it over doesnt provide enough rpm to make pressure.

 

I prefer WD40 on the cylinder walls and spray a dab on the skirts but only if the engine is going to be run right away.
Straight 30 weight on the bearings and assembly lube on cams.

 

X2.

 

I use 90w gear oil hahaha... I learned a trick from some old timers to use assembly lube, and oil when installing crank, and rod bearing's.

 

i wouldnt be so sure. on a new engine i always take precaution. no use in risking time, money , and effort....to save 2 minutes. i alway prime my pumps. i also use assemble lube on the bearings. and i learned a good ring trick form one of the greats(in my sig) so that will stay a secret.

on my next build im going to use either ATF or wd40. i dont like oil it drains to fast. it doesnt keep lube for long.

 

that statement makes it sound like you have assembled plenty of engines.

if thats the case you should know cranking the motor over does not build oil pressure, if you do things properly and keep an eye on an oil pressure guage you would know that.

i tried to prime the oil pump on my first 2 builds and quikly learned it to be a myth. since then i have built dozens of motors w/o priming the pump and have had 0 issues.

while your cranking the motor over trying to make pressure, all your assembly lube and oil you applied to the bearings is now being wiped and your doing more harm than good. actually your doing NO good at all lol

how do you think your wristpins get lubricated???

next time try an oil pressure guage and you may learn something new

 

MMO for rings and cyl walls here.

 

on my last build i used lucas engine oil stabalizer as an assembly lube on all the bearings....it has to be the best assembly lube ever. it sticks to everything and does not run off like 30wt oil or assembly lube.

5w30 on the rings/grooves and cylinder walls. and you should be good to go.

wd40 is ok if you plan to run the engine within the next couple hours or so.....it tends to dry out if you let is sit for too long.

 

on my new motor after i got done cleaning it, i sprayed wd40 in the cyl's to just clean the pistons and wipe the walls slightly, but my motor's already assembled...

either is fine, wd does dry quicker tho..

 

 

I could see your point and agree

Then again I've been told by one of the best engine builders in the states, that you should crank your car over.. W/o the valvecover on, until you see oil at the top....
I've also too have built and tuned a good amount of motors, and have always managed to have some oil psi throught the motor, not on the guage, but enough to where oil will show itself on the top end of the motor..

 

man thats an aweful lot of cranking to do, i hope your filling up your oil filters before doing this.

 

oh, of course...

 

Kinda off topic but...: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/wd-40-b-series-shootout-2513785/

 

i take an oil squirter, fill it with 10w-30, turn the block crank up, a few squirts in each piston then rotate the crank 360 degrees a few times, seals the cylinders, and fills the oil rings nicely and it eliminates a dry start up

 

i actually have plenty of engine experience. built plenty of cat and perkins engines. now spinning the engine at low rpms does allow oil to flow, remover the valve cover and take alook at the oil followers ontop of the cams. on a empty oil pump you need to create suction. quick easy way is remove the hex head bolt ontop of the pump and pour alilo oil into it. i

and as for the gauge( i would rather my gauge atleast read above the zero) i have that.

 

I always use oil when installing. unless i have lube handy but it does the same thing. I build 2-3 engines a week it works fine. The one thing i use wd40 for is when iam honeing the cyl walls or gas.

 

i used jager