I figured I was bound to have problems w/ this rebuild. First it wouldn't even start, we tracked that down to a bad #2 injector. Now it will start (if given some throttle) and will run (already idled the engine at 2k for 20 min to initiate break-in) but will not idle on it's own. We already tried adjusting the idle screw and that did nothing (as I figured). It's not throwing any codes.

It's late, so I'm going to bed and plan on doing as much research as possible tomorrow, but was figuring I'd get a jump on the game and see if anyone had any input.

Here's all the info, I'll try to list everything relevant:

92 GSR chassis
b17a block and head, standard rebuild machine work and parts
p30 pistons
ITR intake cam w/ spoon cam gears and ITR valvetrain
ITR intake manifold
unknown TB (probably b18c gsr, it's been taken apart, cleaned, put back together)
stock injectors cleaned by cruzin performance
stock intake
Megan 4-1 header
SMSP cat
RS*R exhaust
stock intake
AEM fuel rail
B&M fpr (fp is currently right around 40psi)
stock p61 ecu
ngk plugs
ITR plug wires

This is definitely the most involved rebuild I've done, almost everything has been taken apart, cleaned, and/or replaced w/ OEM or better parts, so there are a lot of variables. Any knowledgeable input is appreciated. TIA!

 

Look for intake leak...You can look with brake cleaner (if the motor die when you spray it on the intake side)

Also you said that you taken the tb apart,just to be sure you can install a friend tb on your car for testing.

 

I saw this same problem before with a hydrolocked motor- freshly rebuilt but the only thing that wasnt done was piston to wall clearance wasnt checked. turns out the bores were egg-shaped and that was causing a terrible idle and it was down on power, even though it was all new pistons, rods, and bearings. Just some info on what ive seen before, so check the piston/wall clearance.

 

flesh, wouldn't an intake leak cause a high idle? I guess I didn't make it clear enough, the engine won't idle as in it stalls when you take your foot off the throttle.

iskate2, I'm not about to pull this engine apart to check internal clearances, tons of other troubleshooting which I should perform first.

 

We have seen incorrect valve timing on numerous fresh builds, that would be the first thing to check. Also check to be sure that all of your connectors are hooked up properly-TPS and MAP sensor connectors not switched, for instance. Make sure that the ground at the thermostat is tightened.

 

By valve timing, you mean mechanical timing between cams and crank? That's dead on, I did it myself numerous times with the different valvetrain stuff I installed while building the motor. Plus I just double checked it again last night.

Connectors are all hooked up right. Somehow the IAT and IACV were switched before we tried to fire it up, but that was easy to hunt down and find. Everything is good now regarding wiring.

Grounds are all good. They're all fresh and double checked.

UPDATE: Checked the plugs and 1, 3, 4 were all on the lean side. I changed out those injectors for some others and it fired up and was able to idle, albeit quite shaky. After messing w/ the idle screw some I got it to calm down. But now it's still not as steady as I'd like. It'll sometimes stall if the rpm drops too quick. Hopefully that's something they can work out on the dyno?