Hey honda tech. Well I did the whole brake upgrade for my 91 crx. MC, booster, prop valve from a da, rear disk upgrade, and steel braided brake lines... I did all of this and it still doesn't brake how it supposed to break.. I don't know what else to check any help is appreciated. Thanx

 

it probably did "break" that's why... Did you bleed the system?

 

You need bigger front brakes, why not use the DA front brakes?

 

Yea I bled the brakes more than 10 times... Do I need to change the knuckles to upgrade to the DA calipers?

 

What I meant to say was can I change the calipers and rotors without changing the knuckles, or do I have to change all of the setup?

 

It is easier to get the whole front DA brake upgrade. The rear disc brakes are not going to make you stop better.

 

you said you changed your m/c, did you bench bleed it first?

 

^^ x2

 

Bingo.

 

Hi forget those brakes just buy some Hawk HP+ pads and you should be happier. Or some other performance pad.... Try that first.

 

Too late.
He already did a 40/40 prop valve and rear discs.

 

No I did not bleed the MC! How do I do that? o.O I will be doing the DA front brake upgrade, but not right now due to the low crx fund

 

fastbrakes kit! 11" brakes with the stock knuckle FTW.

well, after you bench bleed the master and get some cash

 

Beat me to it.

 

K two ?'s... How do I bench bleed my MC, and how much is that kit so I can start saving up for it...i'd like to stick with my own knuckles cuz I spent a pretty penny installing new bearings on them...

 

http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm


Is there a reason you need more stopping power than the stock brakes can supply? A stock brake setup with good pads, fluid, and SS lines should do plenty for you. All the rear disk's do is add weight.

 

Well I have a B16 and I wanted to upgrade the brakes since the rex is an HF... Needed to be comfortable with my braking power

 

You have stock HF brakes up front? Why are you going to get a bigger MC/BB with the small brakes on? You are going to warp your rotors.

 

Well stopping force is stopping force, if he has bigger MC/BB it will just be less pedal effort for more force on the rotors. So unless he now wants to stop NOW everywhere he goes or he has a habbit of riding the brakes, the bigger MC/BB will not just warp your rotors.

I have some decently sticky 205s on my rex, stock HF system and im still plenty happy with the stopping power i have. I dont ride the brakes or track the car so overheating is never an issue. I also use a considerable amount of engine braking when i drive.

If your brakes were an issue of concern before you spent this money i would have to say something was wrong before as it sounds it is now. I would bet you have some crap high mileage pads on there.


And if your really into stopping fast, get an adjustable prop valve. Start heavy front bias and turn to the rear until the rear locks up just before the front, then turn it back to the front a bit. This ensures your rears are as strong as they can be. A lot of people think rears dont do much for stopping, and in general thats right. But dont disregaurd them either.

If your road racing or really spirited driving you will need to adjust your rears to your own driving style, riding this close to rear lockup can get you into trouble if you like to trail brake or dive in on people in corners and late brake. Also the above isnt the best setup if it rains a lot or worse. just things to keep in mind

 

if you want i will trade you a clean 13/16 mc with brake booster and 3030 valve for your 4040 and 15/16 mc and brake booster...i have the wrong setup in my car and i already have the front and rear da brake setup...!!!

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/easiest-brake-upgrade-you-never-knew-about-details-inside-1171175/ read all about it Mang!

 

I'm running the 11" fastbrakes upgrade with rear discs and a 40/40 proportioning valve. My car stops pretty well even though I'm only running Autozone pads F&R. Had it over at Heartland Park Topeka last week and it stopped very well - hardly any lockup but good firm pedal - even though it did require more pedal travel as my MC is still from a stock DX. I"d recommend replacing brake lines (as stock are rubber lines are about 20 years old if they've never been replaced) and putting in DOT4 fluid - ATE Superblu is what I use on my Porsche and Honda - works great.

 

just be sure when you switch from dot3 to 4 that you use ones that are compatable. you can run into some issues if they dont like eachother.

 

Well my brake upgrade was not in the best condition when I got the car... I replaced the front brake assembly to DX but I didn't change the pads cuz they "looked" new... Come to think if it, the pads haven't worn out for the two years that I've had the car...that's pretty odd. Hmm... Ok...so tomorrow I will bleed the MC, get pads... Ill prob get hawks, bleed the system again, and will post pics of the progress..

 

Oh yea I forgot to mention that I bought that synthetic dot 3/4 fluid from auto zone...idk if that affected anything also... Will update soon...