HI! new here
Hello everyone! I'm new here from accordtuner. I actually can't believe I never signed up here for so long but anyways, I'm from TN and here's my ride.
1994 Honda Accord LX with a JDM H22A swap from auto to manual. lowered on Skunk2 coilover springs (not full coilovers note) and KYB GR2s.



swap is still not complete though. when I last drove the car, the speedometer didn't work and the engine was in serious limp mode. It didn't even have enough acceleration to get up to speed on highways. throttle response is slow even in idle, and idle is very unstable, too. I didn't have all the vacuum lines routed right yet, but it would be very low and unstable (on the verge or stalling) so I had to open up two vacuum lines to raise it a little, but I think it's stil a little voilent. I found out I didn't have the oil pressure sensor wired up, actually I had a ground hooked up to it instead (don't ask) so I fixed that, and the CEL went away, but now the car won't start at all. AGAIN.
1994 Honda Accord LX with a JDM H22A swap from auto to manual. lowered on Skunk2 coilover springs (not full coilovers note) and KYB GR2s.



swap is still not complete though. when I last drove the car, the speedometer didn't work and the engine was in serious limp mode. It didn't even have enough acceleration to get up to speed on highways. throttle response is slow even in idle, and idle is very unstable, too. I didn't have all the vacuum lines routed right yet, but it would be very low and unstable (on the verge or stalling) so I had to open up two vacuum lines to raise it a little, but I think it's stil a little voilent. I found out I didn't have the oil pressure sensor wired up, actually I had a ground hooked up to it instead (don't ask) so I fixed that, and the CEL went away, but now the car won't start at all. AGAIN.
oh, well ur in the accord forums, there's probably seperate section for the teggys, but you're welcome here. actually you can just click on my pics, and it'll take you to a site where you can upload pics!
anyways backc to accord99power, I just realized what the problem might be. I remembered I hooked up one ground to that tiny metal bracket that holds the wiring harness to somewhere...... I highly doubt that was a good place to ground it to. I'll try to extend it to reach the intake manifold or something and see if it runs tomm.
anyways backc to accord99power, I just realized what the problem might be. I remembered I hooked up one ground to that tiny metal bracket that holds the wiring harness to somewhere...... I highly doubt that was a good place to ground it to. I'll try to extend it to reach the intake manifold or something and see if it runs tomm.
Yup! G101 on the end of the intake manifold is often times the culprit for no start swaps.

This image shows an F22 not an H22. No matter what engine is in the bay. The Accord engine wire harness still needs to be grounded directly to the intake manifold no matter what engine is in there. Make sure that whatever stud or bolt you choose to attach the ground to the manifold with. That the manifold surface is clean and free of any sort of coatings or dirt. Most times the manifolds have a clear coating on them and that will interfere with the ground. I suggest that you give the surface of the IM a light scuffing. Use a wire brush, steal wool or sandpaper before hooking it up.

This image shows an F22 not an H22. No matter what engine is in the bay. The Accord engine wire harness still needs to be grounded directly to the intake manifold no matter what engine is in there. Make sure that whatever stud or bolt you choose to attach the ground to the manifold with. That the manifold surface is clean and free of any sort of coatings or dirt. Most times the manifolds have a clear coating on them and that will interfere with the ground. I suggest that you give the surface of the IM a light scuffing. Use a wire brush, steal wool or sandpaper before hooking it up.
Last edited by GhostAccord; Aug 15, 2009 at 05:59 AM.
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Yup! G101 on the end of the intake manifold is often times the culprit for no start swaps.

This image shows an F22 not an H22. No matter what engine is in the bay. The Accord engine wire harness still needs to be grounded directly to the intake manifold no matter what engine is in there. Make sure that whatever stud or bolt you choose to attach the ground to the manifold with. That the manifold surface is clean and free of any sort of coatings or dirt. Most times the manifolds have a clear coating on them and that will interfere with the ground. I suggest that you give the surface of the IM a light scuffing. Use a wire brush, steal wool or sandpaper before hooking it up.

This image shows an F22 not an H22. No matter what engine is in the bay. The Accord engine wire harness still needs to be grounded directly to the intake manifold no matter what engine is in there. Make sure that whatever stud or bolt you choose to attach the ground to the manifold with. That the manifold surface is clean and free of any sort of coatings or dirt. Most times the manifolds have a clear coating on them and that will interfere with the ground. I suggest that you give the surface of the IM a light scuffing. Use a wire brush, steal wool or sandpaper before hooking it up.

ok, found out the problem. when I took the distributor out and back in, the wire from the external coil got stuck and..guess it wasn't getting through? (I converted from internal to external coil) so once I let that loose it fired right up, but the engine's still running in limp mode. Another thing though, is when I grounded the G101 (I grounded it to the driver's side of the intake manifold cuz that's as far as it could reach) 3 CELs come one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhWHepR-Mkc codes 10, 11, and 41. But there is no code 11 listed anywhere? If I take off that ground and just let it hang, the CEL goes away. but the engine still runs in limp mode............wtf
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