so either I really suck at searching the right things, or iI' not looking in the right places but I seem to only be able to find info on b16 swaps into either 92+ HBs or crxs, and since I am going to be dropping a b16obd0 into my 91 HB could people help me out with either steering me in the right direction of the posts or providing the info. Not sure if there are differences in the swaps between the different cars.

Am I able to still use the stock shift linkage, throttle cable, and motor mounts. Some of those need to be changed when it comes to the crx but I am not sure if the HB requires the same. Also I have the ecu for the b16 does that mean i do not need to add/change some wiring for the second 02 sensor, and vetec stuff (which was discussed in a crx swap).
Can I use the stock motor mounts or do I have to buy aftermarket ones in order to mount the motor to my car?
And final thing is am i required to make a dent in my bay for where the altenator sits?

If yuou could help that would be appreciated

 

Swapping a B series into a 91 hatch is exactly like swapping it into a CRX. All the parts are the same and technique is the same.

This is also saying that currently in the car is a D series motor also.

You can use stock SIR mounts but it would just be easier to use aftermarket mounts as they bushings are new in them and you have nothing to worry about.

All your info you need to swap in a B series:

B-series.
These are by far the most popular swaps. They are fairly easy for the average joe to do and are pretty fast right out of the box (errr…clip). But in doing a b-series swap you WILL need to do some things in order for this swap to work:
-Get some mounts. I like Hasports as do many others but Place Racing, HCP, and some others make them as well. NOTE: the B16 JRSC fits with Place Racing mounts in the EF chassis. I have done it. I don’t know about the other mount kits. If you know, please tell me.
-You have to either find EF SiR shift linkage or you can shorten 90-93 integra shift linkage by 2-3/8” . I do the latter because DA linkage is easy to find and its cheap. I also always shorten it in the straightest portion possible. The 3rd option is to get some adjustable shift linkage From Hasport or Place Racing.
-You need (maybe not NEED) a tranny that has a Cable actuated clutch. This will be covered on a case by case basis in the motor portion of this guide.
-If you have a Dual-Point car you will NEED to convert it to Multi-Point. If you are going the VTEC route you will need to wire the VTEC stuff in all EFs no matter the trim level.
-MPFI wiring: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/4g...iring.htm-VTEC wiring; wires to add if using PR3/PW0:
o Pin A8 – VTEC solenoid.
o Pin B5 – VTEC oil pressure switch (plug with 2 wires, Black is ground)
o Pin B19 – Knock sensor.
o Pin C8 – Second oxygen sensor
-Get some 90-93 integra axles, JDM EF SiR axles (good luck finding them if they didn’t come with your swap) or get custom ones. You need to have a 90-93 teg intermediate shaft with the teg axles and an SiR int shaft with the SiR axles. If you get customs ones ask the manufacturer of the axles which intermediate shaft you should use.
-If using 90-93 axles, take out the dust rings on your knuckles. Also take off the dust rings on the axles. It sucks but you pretty much need the clearance for the axles. Try to stay out of the dirt.
-You need a 90-93 integra throttle cable (except if you are going JRSC, then you can use the stock one).
-You need to make a large dent in the frame rail right below the shock tower (right under the rectangular hole). This dent clears the alternator pulley. NOTE: if you’re putting a JRSC in this dent will NEED to be further forward and a lot deeper. Trust me. Experience talking. We pulled the motor a few times messing with this.
-Your stock exhaust probably wont bolt up (if it does you are lucky). If you are using a stock exhaust manifold on the b-series then you can use you stock D-series down pipe on the b-series manifold. But what you really should do is get rid of the stock manifold, buy a header, and get some 2.25” exhaust made at a muffler shop. Or you could buy an aftermarket cat-back exhaust and get it modified to fit. Either way you WILL want to get rid of that 1.5” crush bent stock crap and the stock header/downpipe.

ECU pin outs are here: http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/ECU_Pin_Outs.xls
I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but it really isn’t when you get down to it.

 

Have you already looked through the "FAQ" thread we have at the top of the forum page?

 

B16=too much work go single cam with high compression pistons. Depending on where u get the pistons it could be cheaper. I have had a d16z6 with p29 pistons and 3layer headgasket stock i/h/e with a p28 ecu and apexi vtec controller and walked all over ek's eg's w/b16 and a kept up with a ls n a crx cammed out. So in my opioion single cam is the best bang for ur buck

 

www.d-series.org <--- check that out if your gonna stay single cammin..

 

Thanks this is kinda what i needed to know. Was not sure if when i went to do it I would experience different stuff then if I was doing a crx.

And ya I looked under the FAQ and after that those were the questions i had left.

 

If i have the ecu for the b16 does this still apply?

 

Yes, DPFI cars only have 2 injectors, MPFI has 4 injectors, plus DPFI don't have a Cylinder Position Sensor wired in the distributor like MPFI cars.

And yes you will have to run wires for VTEC for it to work properly.

 

thanks