So i have been doing some research on doing this to my h22 and i was wondering if this would be good for a weekend/track car. My buddy did it to his SE-R and said his motor shook really bad. So to people that have done this what are some goods and bads or some advise...maybe some engine dampiners would help with the shake...

 

bump

 

I would say it not really neccasary for a DD, I mean I have never actually seen power inprovements, it kinda just speculated. I removed mine and the vibration is defanitly increased plus I have polyurathane motor mounts but not too bad.

 

Well like i said its just gunna me like my weekend car maybe drive to work every once in awhile. But more for track so how much does all that stuff weigh

 

anyone else

 

it vibrates a lot but I got used to it and doesn't bother me now. I've also got poly motor mounts. A properly balanced crankshaft pulley helps too I had to buy a new one because it wasn't balanced right.

 

is it really worth it or should i just get a single belt crank pulley

 

if you get rid of drag, it should increase power right?

and if you're looking for pulleys let me know if you would be interested in a set of Unorthodox Racing pulleys, crank+alternator+PS pulleys.

 

idk I just replaced mine with a Euro R single belt, that's what I would do, but I'm a big fan of reliability.

as far as the balance shaft belt, just take it off, it's not that big of a deal. You can even cut it off and your done.

 

were did you get the euro r belt from?

 

It's hard to know for sure, but some have speculated that removing the balance shafts can lead to a higher tendency of oil pump failure. I'm planning on deleting mine in my build, but am also planning on an ATI damper to help with the vibration suppression.

 

The only reason why I could see oil pump failure happening because of removal of the BS is this.

The honda engine is designed in such a manner, that it functions with everything else in sync.

Now you remove those 2 balance shafts and plug the holes up and you now have more space for the oil to flow through.

I am still skeptical of how removing the BS can increase oil pressure. Mabey Im thinking about this wrong, but you now have more volume in the engine for the oil to flow.

You do have to plug a few holes up , but I dont think that the volume in the holes is equivalent to the volume added by removing the balance shafts. Follow me?

You now have more space in your engine, and that would decrease the amount of oil pressure in the block.

Mabey someone else can chime in here and add something Im missing or not understanding correctly.

Oh, and I just cut the balance shaft belt off instead of removing it. For 125 dollars and the amount of work involved, fuc* that. IMO

 

How about for 1/6th of that?

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/%2420-h-f-balance-shaft-removal-2391818/

 

Yeah I did see that. I was going to do that myself, with my engine, but Im not confident in my tapping skills. Plus you need a press

That is something I dont have laying around.

 

It doesn't have anything to do with oil pressure. Oil pump failure has to do with the vibrations introduced by eliminating the balance shafts, since their whole purpose is to eliminate second-order vibrations. It's a little like the whole crank pulley debate. Some will tell you it's strictly an NVH comfort thing, while others will tell you it does actually have effects on your engine's health.

 

So by the sounds of it. If i want to replace oil pumps all the time dont get one or do something to counter act the vibration

 

When you plug up the holes , you're doing so on your crank girdle. The crank girdle is responsible of the oil passages to your 2 balancer shafts, by plugging these holes up the oil can no loger travel to the shafts , and thus bumping up the oil pressure.

 

with or without balance shafts my motor vibrates quite a bit because of the urethane motor mount inserts. the shafts themselves weigh next to nothing so they don't require a lot of torque to rotate them, any power gain from removing them is negligible. for the amount of work involved it is definitely not worth the hassle.

 

Yes, they have a very low MoI but they are actually 8 pounds of cast iron that do take 1.5% of the whp to spin. I ran without the BSs for 10,000 miles on my current hybrid. Heavy cast pistons and poor R/S ratio make it vibrate a bit at harmonic frequencies, so I put the belt back on. The next build, when I get around to it, I am going to toss them. I've got quite a bit of lightweight components to reduce the reciprocating/rotating mass that contribute to the 2nd order harmonics. I can live with 330g pistons on the end of 500g rods in a 99mm stroked K-series without BSs so I think I can get away with 317g pistons on 500g rods in a 97mm stroked F/H23 VTEC with better motor mounts in my daily driver.

 

Yes, but you remove the 2 shafts, leaving more space.

Thats what I am saying

 

Acid, the BSs don't typically float in oil. The oil level should be well below that. Shouldn't affect the volume of oil in your engine.

 

So would it be worth it to buy the kit and do it

 

^ well that depends, are you willing to remove motor from the bay and dig into the block to install BS delete kit ? .. If your motor is already apart then I say yes it's worth it, you can always hold off on this mod until you rebuild your engine. Like said before BS-delete is not magic, you will not gain HP as this is not a performance upgrade, but you will save some weight, bump-up your oil pressure, and free-up rotational mass. Worth it IMO.

 

ok sounds good ya my motor is completely out and apart so i guess the next step for this is get the delete kit