I'm getting ready in the next month or so to do this swap but I have some small questions. I've done the appropriate searches and have the step by step but wanted to confirm somethings I'd need to do for my car as the swap guides I got were for a CRX.

Facts:

I have a b16a2 (jdm) motor - confirmed by the 2 gray colored plug distributor.

I have to convert from DPFI to MPFI and update to OBD1 and add VTEC wiring. I'm likely going to get the Monotech kit just to extremely simplify this procedure.

Motor I bought (used) came with a YS1 cable tranny. It shifts good and has a very new clutch. It also only came with the Int Shaft (no axles).

The ECU that came with the engine had a bad soldering job done on it and was supposed to be a Spoon ECU - which I cannot confirm.

I have Yonaka motor mounts

I have a no name b series shift linkage.

Questions

What kind of axles do I need to get to have it adapt to my car. Will the DX knuckles accept these axles? I hope I don't have to get customer made ones.

I want to buy energy suspension shifter bushings and wonder if the EF shift bushing kit will work also on the new b series shift linkage (says it will work on Integras on the package but want to confirm).

I bought a new radiator for my EF Hatch - it is a stock one and I removed a/c system and installed 2nd fan to turn on at same time as normal fan does. Will I need to upgrade to a bigger radiator? I tried it before but found out that CRX radiators don't fit in the Hatches. I will be adding an oil cooler at a later time and I will run water wetter in my car.

I'm running Skunk2 Sport shocks and coilovers front and rear. I can't recall the spring rates but should I upgrade the fronts for the extra weight? I did remove the entire a/c system and I relocated the battery to the truck with an Enersys 13lb battery (run a solar trickle charger to keep it juiced up).

I will have more questions when I read and think through more stuff. Thanks in advance.

 

http://www.crxresource.org/modules.p...rticle&sid=134

 

If the motor stamp in fact says b16a2 then it's not a "JDM" Motor. Only USDM motors came stamped with a number after the letter, ex, b16a2, d16z6, d16a6 etc.

You don't have to run an upgraded radiator, your stock one will work correctly.

Stock DX knuckles will work, only if the car was a CRX HF would you need to change those out.

Why would you run a trickle charger on the battery? Do you have a power drain somewhere? If not, there would be no reason to run any kind of charger, your alternator will take care of that.

 

Thanks - I found that same swap guide through a search on HT...but that post didn't have any pictures and this one does.

Motor stamp says b16a (so it was a JDM motor) - supposedly out of an Integra XSi. But it is the 170hp obd 1 version not the b16 1g motor.

I run a trickle charger b/c I'll park the car at the long term parking airport for up to two weeks at a time when traveling. The charger is only 1.5 watts so it doesn't juice up the battery but may counter any loss leaving it with good cranking amps. Plus now I can claim my car is solar powered.

 

I got to take the car out to Heartland Park yesterday and had a blast. Got a good 1 1/2 hours track time (very good deal for that much track time). It was fun running the stock DPFI engine, autozone pads but I was running 11" fastbrakes kit and that worked awesome. Outside of some glazing and really focusing on getting a good brake pedal - it was quite fun. I was able to run a best time of 1:48 (config was missing turns 1-3 complex) when I was pushing it before the brakes would get a little mushy (I had spare Hawk HP Plus but decided to just see what stock teg sized brakes felt on it). I really need to upgrade to the 1" master cylinder from a EX sedan - should make a world of difference in brake pedal feel too.

Next up will be the swap and definitely some reclining sport seats and 4 point harness - I'm so unused to sliding around when trying to push it through corners. So used to having 6 point harness, HANS, etc.

 

I'm getting ready to tear down the motor and rebuild it from scratch.

Does anyone have a complete parts list of a b16 teardown and rebuild with stock specs in mind:
bearings
gaskets
timing belt
water pump
all hoses
improvements or upgrades to stock b16 more for reliability rather than power
etc.

I also got the Omniman DVD and was wondering if I should do some of the tricks he does like use GSR rod bearings and re tang the stock rods. He milled down the head but I'm not really looking at doing that.

 

How many miles does the motor have? If its a low milage motor I would leave it alone. You pretty much have it summed down to what you will need, I would do everything OEM, dont go on ebay n buy bearings and piston rings. If you need to change the rod/crank bearings, there is a code behind the flywheel on the block, write that code down and go to your nearest honda dealership and get the bearings there. As for the pistons, I would go slightly higher comp (thats me), with certain B series pistons (somebody chime in), but thats only if you want to go that way, get honda/acura OEM piston rings also.

edit: what does 'jaje' mean? lol

 

It maybe a lower miles unit. I can't confirm as I bought it from another guy - he said there should only be 40-50k miles on the engine. I've been reading about people using B18c rod bearings as they say you get better oiling and less friction w/o a reduction in reliability (same reason the b16b uses them instead of the b16a bearings).

jaje is really jj (my nickname) but every message board I tried to use that name it was already taken. I wound up making this one up when studying Japanese in college (and the girls too).

 

If its in that milage range I would leave it alone and worry about other stuff that needs to be done. You said its going to be a daily driver, no high revs?

 

It is my daily driver but I also track it sometimes as I instruct for the PCA and Audi (I get a kick out of showing 300hp+ cars and their drivers how fast a well driven "momentum" (small lightweight fwd) car can be). So it'll get its fair share of track time but not all out racing.

 

dx will not work!

 

as far as i know there will be no problem in fitting of the knuckles.you can try to do that.

 

I thought it was STD hatch and CRX HF knuckles would not work. The DX and Si CRX / Hatch had the same knuckles. DX only had DPFI meaning you had to convert to MPFI.

 

I'v never had a problem using DX knuckles only STD and HF as the splines are smaller in the knuckle.

 

If you start looking for EF parts, you're bound to run into problems haha...

 

dx knuckles will not fit.. i just pulled dx knuckles to replace with si knuckles so i could do my h swap

 

As of last week the swap is in and running. Had a bunch of issues that took me for the longest time to address. I bought a b16a2 with ys1 cable tranny (sitting on pallet). Beforehand I decided to do the rywire conversion harness and ECU jumper (DX to MPFI / OBD1 w/ VTEC) instead of taking hours to require it myself. It worked great - no issue at all with the wiring and complete plug and play (big help from Peter & Ryan). I also decided to have the engine installed at RevLine Motorsports here in KC, MO as they know how to do this properly (and I was kinda over my head with all the little niggling issues that kept on cropping up.) Chuong & Jesus were great tow work with and helped make this happen.

Issues:
No wiring harness came with engine
Intake manifold was missing fuel injectors
Intake manifold had crack on back that causes major vacuum leak and wouldn't allow the IACV to bolt on properly causing a major leak.
Intake manifold was missing several sensors and key bolts.
Knock sensor was broken
Various bolts / nuts (critical ones) were missing
An exhaust stud was broken and still in block
Missing Integra rear T mount bracket
Came with P30 ECU but the board was fried (someone miswired something and blew the IACV part of the board and did a hack job of soldering). Wound up putting in a chipped P28.
Came with YS1 tranny so shifts still drop out of VTEC. I will address this eventually (get LSD S1 or Y1 tranny) - but may in the short run have VTEC engagement point lowered slightly.

We did a leakdown and it had 20% loss in all 4 cylinders (but I suppose that is common for Honda engines that sit for a long time). We got it up on the dyno and it put down 140whp (no header) which is pretty strong just after some idling. More power should be ready once the rings properly reseat themselves. It breaks loose in 1st - 3rd when VTEC hits (roads are kinda dirty still).

Simple bolt ons:
Yonaka Mounts (steel)
AEM Hybrid CAI
New waterpump and timing belts
CTR pulley
JE Engine Dynamics Cam Gears
ITR valve cover (old one was cut to show the cam gears)
CF spark plug cover
NGK plugs
MSD 8.5 comp spark plug wires
Unknown 4-2-1 ss header
Custom made ss exhaust with mangaflow muffler (buddy of mine fabbed this up in trade for my old d15b2 engine / tranny - he races ITC in a DX and needed some spares)

Video of car running w/ no header (now much quieter with exhaust)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0n2fZjYU5wQ

Purpose of car: daily driver and occasional track warrior (when I'm too lazy to tow out my 944 Spec car).