Just bought a 91 Accord with a f22a1 motor. It had a broke cam. Here is a link to what it looks like

Broke Cam



You can see where the break was how it was gouged pretty bad as well as the one to the right.

I have a replacement head that I will be putting on but want to ask if there is anything else I should do to the motor to clean or test the oil passages in the block to make sure that this doesnt happen again. I am thinking about pulling the pan to check the oil pickup but then if I am there I may as well do rod bearings and rings and will be going over budget pretty quick if I do everything.

The fella said that there was no oil pressure light or noise when it broke.

Replacing the oil pump is an expensive preventive measure that I dont want to jump into unless 91 accords are prone to this problem. The car shows to have 150k miles on it.

Thanks for any suggestions about anything that should be done while I am doing. Thanks!

 

Im not sure how much income you have to spare but you can usually buy a complete used F22 engine for less than $500. The damage to that cam is severe and theres no telling what kind of bottom end damage may have also occured.

 

Wow thats not exactly what I wanted to hear but definitly an interesting thought. With the head job being 160 and the head gasket set being 100, belt and tensioner, water pump, etc I will be ending up at the 500 mark anyway. If the engine is only worth 500 I may just have to rethink the plan. Thanks for the response.

You are right for sure so I guess I will pull the pan, and look around and make sure it is all good and metal shavings cleaned out. Put rings while I am there and I should end up with a good engine hopefully.

 

i second the whole new (used) engine idea. especially with any F22/23 or D15/16. cheap, plentiful and interchangable within series

for the sake of the hard-headeds who may be reading this and still want to keep the old block... at a minimum i would drop the pan off and check the oil pickup screen for metal fragments and other trash. i would also clean the inside of the pan as well as possible.

i don't feel like removing the pan is absolute cause for replacing the main and rod bearings. though not a bad idea when engine failure is likely attributed to oil starvation, i wouldn't want to do that without a complete teardown and rebuild.

 

Since you guys both recommend replacement engines tell me this. If you were to get a replacement engine what would you do to it before you dropped it in? I think timing belt, but if you do belt you should do tensioner and water pump, and if your doing that you need to do the valve cover gasket, and my vision keeps growing and growing till I have paid twice what the car is worth. I have never seen this auto tranny work so that would be the icing on the cake to get the engine good to have a bad tranny.

Now I am thinking that with 150k on this block, and head gasket kit enroute, do valve stem seals myself (cuts out $160) pull the pan, clean it up, check the rod bearings visually timing belt, put it back together and see if there are other problems. Hopefully I will get lucky and get another 50k out of it.

I dont have a shop so an engine swap in the driveway doesnt sound like a good time. Maybe a last resort.

I just cannot figure out what could have happend to have the oil not go to these two places and have no pressure light. If it is a clogged passage in the head then my replacement head will remedy that. hummmmmm

Thanks for the input

 

Well as I pull the head off I am finding out what clogged the head up. It is Muck. I am asking any rebuilder out there who can tell me how the oil passages flow. If you know please steer me in the right direction. While I have the head off and the pan off where can I spray brake cleaner so this gunk ends up in the pan instead of packed in the oil pump. If pipe cleaners are a better solution or if you have a method to dissolve this gunk I would really appreciate the guidance! Thanks!


Also, is the tensioner reverse thread or something? I cannot seem to be able to break it loose. Used a closed end wrench and it stripped. Fixing to have to apply a little heat to it because it is tight, real tight.

 

if your going to try and redo your block, to clean it heres a easy ghetto way to do it. pull the oil pan, head and everything. then rent a pressure washer, nothing crazy just something with a little more pressure than a hose.
then hose out the oil and coolant passages with water and engine degreaser. that will remove all the grease and gunk. before rebuilding it youd want it to dry out for a day or two before rebuilding it, but that would get it clean

 

i have done motor swaps in the driveway before and with the right tools they are not much harder then in a shop

 

Thats a interesting idea and I just happen to own a commercial pressure washer. Thanks!