I know what your thinking....doing a rear drum to disk conversion is beyond basic, five decent sized to bust loose, un hook all the plumbing and re attach new stuff, seems easy enough even for super newbs like myself. well everything was gong smoothly
(yea right breaking 10 yr old rust, i did the necessary research and prep for the build(breaker par, piping, new setup, amd torch)all the pedigree ****
So
busted three 17 mm bolts into the chassis of my car...Fu**!!!!
ALRIGHT so im not freaking out but not happy, grab the drill and some extractors. bust one bit after another with little progress even a piece of a extractor bit broke off inside this 17mm(now im freaking out) illl post pictures so you guys ca understand where specifically it happened, best way i can describe is theres 2 17 mm bolts supporting the trailing arm in a bushing(2 broke on pass side 1 on driver).
what the freak should i do guys!!! please help i gotta my car off stands i need my girl!!!!!
HELP HONDA TECH!!!!

 

lets see those pics.
this happens quiet offen... buddy did it and oh boy was it a bitch.

 

BY THE WAY guys, i know im a freaking idiot for having this issue

Bash away, itll motivate me


seriously bro, do it

 

get yourself a cut off wheel and some new bushing. i had the same issues putting on my rear suspension.

 

Ouch man.....didnt Billy Mays have some really good extracting bit...might work

 

if the bolts are seized in the bushings no bolt extractor in the world is going to get them out.

 

right!, so wtf i do? i was planning on just drilling progressive size bits as long as it takes till the bolt is thin enough for me to i dunno mess with,m break?

 

Burn out the bushing with a torch. I wish I was kidding there...

 

im a little co...nmfused, the bushing im talking about it no longer there, twas a part of the trailing arm which is now off the car, the bolts are siezed and broke inside the chassis of my car? HINT i should check out my manual huh? KINDA DUMB

 

what a nasty choice lol

 

yea....

 

pics? can you see the bolt pop thru the other side of your chassis? if so cut off the nut welded to the chassis and just get some replacement nuts and bolts.

 

na man. theres no nut, its in an enclosed area that is not accessible should i say, cut into that and see what nut is there and swap out? thats seems a little extreme you know? whatever it takes but ****

 

yup..cut a flap on the other side and break the welds of teh nut. the nut is actually a square nut that is welded to the frame/subframe

 

shiit....alright, how to break the weld, chizzel that ish?

 

muscle or cut off wheel.

 

will cutting into this area affect my car negatively at all
?, unsafe maybe

 

there are larger extractors out there i know ment for tractors. you should look around for one of those so you dont have to cut in to your frame. And i would eventually invest in a set of Air tools Impact wrenches save time and evenually sanity by breaking bolts. When you replace all the bolts i would replace them with Galvanized Grade 8 bolts that way they will be in there for the long haul! I suppose you can drill that bolt out eventually if you get a big enough drill bit you can clear the main guts of that bolt out of there then start pealing the threads from the frame part.. then get a tap set and tap the threads just incase they are damage. Sprey some Bolt anti siez stuff in the hole to lubricate the bolt then the oil in there will keep the bolt from rusting in the future. so basically
1 find a tractor sized bolt extractor OR
2 Drill out the bolt and peel away the threads of the bad bolt. those are the 2 best options with out damaging the frame
EDIT I DO NOT RECOMMEND CUTTING IN TO YOUR FRAME UNLESS YOU CAN WELD.... it will def effect your cars structure negativly any cut you make in the frame weakens it.

 

You need carbide drill bits for this one, not those cheap high temp steel ones. Also you should get some kind of cutting fluid in there, should help cut through that bolt. You really have no options with a torch and im thinking an extractor will just waste your time, cuz its prlly seized in there. Drill a hole out bigger than you need, and rethread it. My .02

 

your either going to have to drill it out and re tap, and cut into the car.

 

yea thats plan a and b, it sucks because im not using air tools yet, cant afford it, what im working with is making my job a very ill equipped one...freaking sucks I WANT AIR TOOLS
but in the meantime my carbine bits are too good for my shitty drill, i need some drill cheap and quick, trying to borrow decent one from nieghbor or relative but dont have patience for it, on other hand dont have cash to buy out sears or even harbor frieght,
help

 

Air tools wont solve your problem btw, ive had more broken bolts with air tools, then without. The only other thing i can recommend is taking a very small drill bit, about the size of a coffee straw, and drilling into the subframe. Then taking some pb blaster, sticking the straw nozzle through the drilled hole, and spray the bolt to help loosen it. Then try and take a bolt extractor to it. or you could always take the car to a local dealership or repair shop and have them remove it. Its Ft Lauderdale, theres gotta be some1 around on HT that could give you a hand.

 

Damn that bites ... I can only really sympathise. Your problem is exactly what scares me about doing this same swap on my own vehicle. Canadian winters + 15yrs of salt mean those bolts are heavily seized on there.

Since I don't have air either, I plan on marking the bolts I need removed, bringing my car in to a shop with air tools and asking them to remove them, apply some anti-seize, then put them back on. Then I can remove them manually at my leisure back at home. Shouldn't cost me too much.... maybe a 1/2hr labour and some torch time. A lot less aggravation, too.

 

its thoses bults that stop me from doing this myslef...
but even if you had air tools, this could have still happened. just would have broke alot quicker

 

Just for future reference what I've done is soaked the "known" to be stubborn bolts in some PB blaster over night. I mean REALLY soak them. Then right before I work on the car spray them again and wait a few minutes before I start. Sounds like a long process but it has always worked for me.

I know this didn't help at all but good luck man.