I got a 95 ex that won't start. I am beyond my knowledge on this one. Car is an Auto.

Cranks right over.
Timing belt is put on right.
180 Comp. All Across.
Sparks in all 4 cylinders
Took off fuel rail while starting. All 4 injectors pulse and shoot out fuel.
Replaced with known GOOD ECU.

I don't know what else it needs. Good timing, compression and spark = STUMPED *** HOLE.

Help me figure it out and I will PAYPAL you 50 bones if you are right.>>>>

 

Maybe crank or camshaft position sensor?

 

I have the same problem on my b20 everyone says check grounds mine are all grounded still noting. check your main relay as well, let me know what you did to fix it if you ever figured it out brotha

 

Check the firing order.

 

If the main relay is jacked. . won't the car not crank over at all..

Firing order is good. I have been working on hondas for about 7 years. That's why I can't believe I can't figure it out.

Yes, could be TDC cause I don't have another good dist.. good call.. If you are right I owe you 50..

 

When was the last time the car ran?

 

Does the car have a cat? Have only seen it twice, but it is def a possibility. Are the plugs fuel soaked/flooded? Poor fuel quality is a strong possibility. I would not put much weight into TDC. Have never seen bad dizzy( coil or ign excluded) components fail to a no start. What were the failure conditions. Going down highway/ came out to and no start......? I am betting on poor fuel quality. Diesel mixing even maybe. Let us know.

 

The PGM-FI Main Relay has absolutely nothing to do with the engine turning over, it supplies power to the fuel pump, [fuel pump relay] and the fuel injectors, [injector relay] both are housed inside the PGM-FI Main Relay, the injector relay also supplies power to the ECU/ECM and a few engine sensor/valves.

You said you had fuel from the injectors, but pulling fuel rail and seeing the injectors "pulse" fuel is not telling you very much, other then the PGM-FI Main Relays injector relay is supplying power to the injectors and the fuel pump relay is supplying power to the fuel pump and although important to know I would want to know what the fuel pressure is, to find that out you need to install a gauge.

If you know for sure your timing is correct and you have spark, [and it's a good spark] then fuel must be the problem, [maybe just low fuel pressure].

Can you have a good spark, [any spark] without a working TDC, CKP, CYP sensor?

Question...

When you turn ign. switch on, [run not start] does your cluster "light up" does the CEL turn on and can you hear the fuel pump priming the fuel system for a few seconds and does the CEL go out as soon as fuel pump stops priming?

Just for ***** and giggles, recheck the timing, make sure timing belt has not "jumped" a tooth.

If fuel filter has not been changed in a while, do so.
At the same time install a fuel pressure gauge, you can get one for under $30.
Try the above and let me know. 94

 

It might be fuel. I will try to throw some starting fluid up in this mug and see what it will do. I am at my last straw with this POS.

History.

I bought it from a kid that replaced the head gasket but didn't know how to put the timing belt back on. Well got the car for 500 and figured I could fix it cheap and sell it. DUH. Wrong!!

He said it did start before and ran great. Go figure, but I don't think he's lying. It must be something absolutely stupid.

Checked timing - GOOD
Checked Spark - GOOD.
Compression - 180 across

It took the nuts off the dist. and rotated it as my friend tried to start it. It sounded only like it was going to start around where's it's suppose to be. I will take the headers off and try to start it like that. They might be plugged. Car has been sitting around for about 5 months.

Any more help is GREAT>>

 

I'm sticking with a sensor you said you are getting spark, timing is good, fuel coming out the injectors....wait make sure he hooked the injector wires up right i work on a chevy ventura van and two of the injectors wires were wrong and it wont try and start and not turn over after about a day of looking i looking though the wire dia. and say that swapped them and it started right up.....then the ign lock switch went bad about 200 miles later and it was $600 from gm so the free van i fixed went to junk yard for $500 lol

 

This is assuming you have fuel, spark, and compression.

 

Definately your distributor sensors. You can test the sensors on the dizzy but if you can find a parts store with one in stock, it's actually easier and more accurate to just get a new distributor and return it if it isn't the problem or if you want a cheaper used one. I'd say that dizzy sensor problems stump more technicians than any other problems- at least with this generation honda. There's just no way to know for sure exactly when the fuel is being squirted in relation to piston position.

 

Mine started after weeks of going over everything new dizzy ecu wires playing the wire game timed 4 different times checked all grounds main relay fuel new fuel rail reworked firing order even a new head gasket timing belt **** theres probably more but the last thing I did before it started is take my plugs out of my other teg and whamo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But it runs like a bag of major ghetto asssssssssss well it at least starts

BTW my number 1 cyl. reads 216 compared to the rest of 230-240 WTF what could that mean! shoot me 50 if plugs work brotha!

 

I don't know how it could be the plugs when it fires about an inch away when the plugs are out and sitting on the vavle cover. I think it could be the Gas or dist. sensors. just going to try to swap one out with a good one. I am out of options and ideas..

YIKES>>

 

thats the way I felt sit on it and try the stupid ****! im still not out of the nightmare now I got to fig out to make this pos run right. swp that dizzy for sure tho

 

Have you checked the valve lash? You said the kid before pulled the head. He might have pulled off the cam and cradle which would jack up the lash.

 

I pulled my cams to do my head why would that effect the lash? spool, check that firing order like gsaura said for **** and giggles even though you think it might be right, back to the basics thats how I got results

 

Loosen the nut on the fuel filter and purge the fuel pump and see if the gas comes squirting out seeing if you have good pressure.

My car personally had this issue, and my fuel gauge end up being incorrect, I had to put gas in it, take off the nut and let the air out of the lines so good fuel pressure could get to the rail.

 

Are you sure that distributor belongs to that car? Is the distributor rotor on the proper cyl when in TDC? happened to me. I was rebuilding a distributor using the shaft out of a b20 for my civic. when I put it on nothing happened. I then noticed the shaft was different Check that and let us know.

 

Again. Poor fuel quality or restricted exhaust has to be the answer. Think if cam timing were off 180 comp would n ot happen. If injectors pulse and spray not the problem. If firing order is correct and a stated 1 inch arc is present then ignition seems capable. Only thing left is fuel quality. Even if fuel pump was weak the car would start and idle. i.e. Fixed a car once the owner put a carb elec fuel pump on instead of intank high pressure unit. 7 psi max the car still started and idled fine any amount of throttle opening and died. Besides the bearing/ igniter/coil I have never seen an internal component failure with a distributor that would not allow the car to start. I have seen loose/ improper routing of wires in the distributor but was a no spark failure. I have seen broken camshafts that still spin the distributor and give spark, but comp results found bent valves on 2 cylinders. I like no start cars.

 

thanks.. i got to try taking off the header a little bit to let the exhaust out. Also the fuel sprays the whole damn engine bay. I am sure that there's enough pressure. It's crazy. Might be bad fuel. just going to re check EVERYTHING again. thanks for the ideas.. Hope one of them works tomm..

 

too much fuel pressure, too little fuel. check the big 19mm nut at the end of the fuel rail and make sure the holes are lined up.