I had a d16z6 full motor that i tore apart and started building for turbo. Anyways, life happened and i took the rebuilt head, put it on a $100 block and sold the car.

I now have a 95 dx civic with a good motor in it and i kept my d16 block and vitaras.

I was planning to buy a couple junk z6 heads from a friend and rebuild one of them for my motor, then I had a thought.

Why not just use the b7 head, i know its not vtec and probably doesnt flow as good and wouldnt handle the higher revs (a whole 700 rpm, OMG!!)

However, it would be cheaper, the head is in awesome condition, i dont need a different ecu if i do it this way, i dont have to do any vtec wiring (not like its hard anyways)

now down to the question i had.

when doing a d15z6 mini-me swap, you have to pull the oil jet between the number 2 and 3 cylinders in the block to feed the vtec solenoid and components in the head.

if i was to put the b7 head on the d16 (d16b7 mini-me lol) would i have to plug that back up? or would it be ok to leave it open.

i assume it would be ok to leave it open, the HG should seal it, but i wanted to make sure.


And before the vtec crazy flamers come in. Im not 100% sure i will do this, but I am considering.

the turbo will make up for no vtec

 

oh and 1 more question while im here.

Arp headstuds for a d16z6, would they work with the b7 head on a z6 block?

im thinking no, but some clarification on that would be nice too

 

Not to crap in your cherios, but D15B7s use flat topped pistons, Z6s are dished, you're going to have a major drop in compression. I predict it will have to be boosted just to get out of its own way.

 

lawl he's building it for boost.

 

i have to.....DE DEE DEEEEEE

im doing a ycp vitara build.

im gonna have a pretty large drop in compression anyways....thats the point.

20lbs of boost for me!


now, anyone have an answer.

as i said, not 100% sure ill do this, in fact...i probably wont do this, but im curious

 

just build a vitara Z6 :-\

 

whats wrong with you people...

I AM BUILDING A VITARA D16Z6

The block is bored, i have the pistons the rings, the rods, (need a crank, but thats another story) i have the turbo, intercooler, blow off valve, i have the turbo, i have injectors.

so as you can see its almost complete minus the crank, the bearings, and WHAT I AM ASKING HERE

its a simple question which should yield a simple answer

i dont want your suggestions as i know what im doing, i dont care what you have to say unless its answering my two questions.

its nice in life to have more than 1 option for things.

i have 2 options right now, 1 = slightly more power, 1 = slightly less power and a considerable amount cheaper.

they should both be reliable, and the power difference after boost will be pretty small.

 

TTT

for an answer

 

up again

 

hope this helps, if anyone has more knowledge feel free to add to what i say. i just did what you are talking about. i spun a rod bearing on my 93 civic dx. i pulled the d15b7 motor out. i used a short block d16y8 motor. as mentioned d15 flat top pistons, d16 dished. i cannot tell a loss of power from driving it. i left the oil hole open. with the valve cover off and engine running i am oiling the top end so i assume its ok. i used the d16 head bolts they are shorter with the d15head. i used one longer d15 head bolt in the corner where there is a raise in the head casting. hope this helps

 

thank you.

i didnt figure the oil hole would matter, the head gasket would seal it off. but i wanted to be sure.

from what you said, i am going to guess that my ARP headstuds will NOT work with the d15b7 head.

not that it matters, i got them off ebay, and they sent me washer from OEM headbolts, which wont work so i have to order new washers for them anyways.

ill just rebuild a z6 head, as i want to use the ARPs and im not buying any more, that would offset the money i would have saved by using the b7 head


thanks for your input

 

if the arp studs are for the d16 block you are good, if they are for the d15 block they will be too long. i got lucky and the d16 short block i got had the head bolts screwed into the block. i assume these bolts where the stock d16 head bolts but could be wrong.

 

they are d16 block ARP studs.

i thought whether you could use them or not depended on both the block and the head.


ill go look at ARP's site to find that info out

edit:

their catalog doesnt even show for anything d15 of course here is what it shows.

HONDA/ACURA
Acura B18A1, M11 208-4302
Acura VTEC B18C1, M11, GSR 208-4303
B16A 208-4601
B20B, w/B16A head 208-4306
Civic D16Y 208-4305
F20 S2000 208-4702
Honda D16Z - Only, M10 208-4301 - Thats what i have
Honda H22A4, VTEC 208-4304
H23A 208-4307
K20A (A2 & A3) 208-4701


Majestics parts shows these head bolts for each

d15b7 - 944542 013 10 BOLT-WASHER (10X140) (SAGA)
d16z6 - 944542 020 10 BOLT-WASHER (10X140) (SAGA)

considering those are the same number i would say that my arp studs will work. anyone that can concur would be great

 

i was always told you would have to put that oil jet back in, other wise the oil pressure wont be high enough?? idk. as far as your b7 head goes... if you've got it go for it. although if you want a bit more performance without spending big bux i'd sugguest going to the j/y and trying to find a cam from a d16a6, cam in 88-91 civic/crx si's, and 90-91 civic ex sedans.

just a thought. good luck w your build!

 

i could take the oil jet out of my b7 and put it in the z6 block, i dont think it will affect the oil pressure, as the head and head gasket should seal it off. i just wanted to make sure the head gasket would in fact seal it.

EDIT: misread your post.

if im gonna buy a head for it, im gonna get the z6 head. as i said, my friend has 2 he is willing to sell, they both need rebuilding

 

the d15 head bolts measured 140mm, the d16 block i got had 120mm head bolts which is the ones i used to put the b7 head onto the d16 block. i am not sure about oil psi, i can visually see that the rockers are oiling and do not have a cel on.

 

that oil jet feeds the vtec solenoid on vtec heads.

i think ill just leave it open.


why are your headbolts 120mm long?

the bolts listed on www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (majestic honda) show both the d15 abd 16 with 140mm head bolts

 

Awwww damn!!! I wanted to see the D15z6/ D16b7 build.....lol

This thread gave me an idea for my build(that won't be ready yet) I was thinking of doing the same build. Z6 block with a B7 head w/ Bisimoto 1.2 turbo regrinded A6 cam. Yeah the head won't flow as well as a Z6 but I'm not a vtak nut-swinger and I don't suspect the slightly restricted flow will keep me from building a 300whp DD.

I say go on with what you origionally wanted. Be different......as long as its safe. And when boosting your block is gonna be the weak point. And yours is built so I see no issues besides what timing belt to use.

 

use the b7 timing belt, you want the belt that corresponds with the head

im still considering this. its cheaper overall for me to do this. this head is ready to bolt up.

where as i would have to rebuild a z6, then buy a p28

only questions i had were those two. the oil jet question is answered, i dont think ill need it, but i can just pull the one out of the d15 block and use it.

the headstuds i think will work, honda shows the d16z6 and d15b7 using the same head bolts, so the studs should work the same as well.

now i still need a damned z6 crank!!!! its so hard to find just a crank in good shape. (i been looking for over a year)

 

Did you ever end up doin this? I stumbled up on this thread after seaching for some answers for mine. I know how to do it and what I'll need. I just need to source everything. I'm just curious how this turned out.

 

im sorry but i just dont realy understand why you would do this to a boosted car? besides just being cheaper? you spent how much on a turbo setup, but wanna get a less performing head? and its a D series head, they are everywhere and they are all cheap. it would be like me doin a reverse ls/vtec and put a LS head on my B16. just makes no sense to me.

 

for under $100 you could get a Z6 head. It seems a silly thing to cheap out on.

 

The point of this setup is for the cr of 8.5:1 which is awesome for boost. Not everyone is a vtec nutwinger. On a single cam vtec gives negotiale gains. With boost in the eqaution its trivial even. He's gonna make his power goals regardless of how much better the z6 head flows than the b7. He knows the head is good and is adequate for his goals. Should be all that matters.