Just got done installing a new head gasket on my H22a4, got everything back together and started it up and it when straight to 4k rpm and surged up and down from 3k-4k. I could rev it but it would stay stuck at those rpms. Then a few starts later it went down to surging at 2k-3k, popped a CEL and wont let me rev the engine at the peddle or throttle?? Timing seems to be on bc is sounds fine. Only thing i did while the head was off was remove the butterflies in the intake. I tried messing with the TPS and MAP but they were both fine before i pulled everything. Any help or ideas would be great. Thanx

 

figured out part of the problem, pulled all the injectors and plugs and there was no difference. Was checking out the wiring by the ecu since the previous owner had an AFC wired in, noticed one of the wires was off, found out where it went and put it back on. Started it up and it went straight to 4k then back down to 1500k continuosly. Im thinking its the tps since the housing was cracked when i got the car but it always seemed to work, ordered one anyway. I never seen a tps go to that extreme tho, i mean its so annoying my neighbor actually called the cops on me yesterday saying that i was out reving my car all day. LOL Dumb **** didnt realize they cant do much til its after hours, cop just said to try to take a break every so often. Im gonna try to check all the wiring on the afc, cant find a good wiring diagram since it seems the vafc uses different colors.

 

...

 

ok i replaced the tps but dont think that was the problem, checked the code and it was a No.1 cylinder position sensor.... Car idles at like 3k then back down to 2k and so on. Im hoping its not my timing because it sounds like its running fine, even when i rev it up. Any suggestions from anybody ever having a similar problem? I heard if the sensor got anything on it, it may throw the code as well.

 

So i wiped the plugs off the connect the sensors to the crank and the cel doesn't come on but still runs the same and checked for codes and still number 9

 

This has got to be an air leak on the intake manifold. First, check the cold air idle valve. You can just remove the big intake tube and cover the hole in the (bottom, I think) metal intake pipe. There are several holes, but the hole you want is about the size of a pencil. The other could be the IAC. You might have to remove it and just cover the holes.

If you still have a problem, look for loose screws, broken gaskets, etc.

 

I already sprayed the intake with cleaner while was running and no changes, all top end gaskets are new. I don't think code 9 would anything to do with those, but I wanna check
everything b4 I take the timing cover off again. Don't seem to be getting much help in this thread tho.....

 

I had the same problem, had to put the secondaries back in.

 

too late for that since i left the spacer in cut and ported everything out since the car is turbo'd

 

sounds like you know what you are doing 4sure. also try and pinch off vacuume lines to see if they might have a leak. and if not check the timg would never hurt to do that too kinda pain but might be off had that happen to me on a car but didnt have the high idle thing that's weird, check the IAC valve you can ohme it out i think you do pin 1 and 2 and then 3 and 2 on the sensor should be around 16 to 28 ohmes or so. you will get it fix thoe

 

Re-check if you didnt cross the plugs for map and TPS, theyre the same and will plug into each sensor and wont trigger a MIL code..........
Engine would not take any abrupt throttle though.....

Also try to bleed the cooling system off the 12mm bleeder on top of the thermostat housing

GL!

 

both those plugs are good bc they are marked, ill try bleeding the system again. Im wondering if the balance shaft/oil pump belt is off a tooth, if that could triggler the sensor. Like say my timing is on but the smaller belt is off. When i stuck my bolt through the back of the block to hold the oil pump still it have a little play, not sure if that could have made the difference. I think ill do a compression test today to check if everything good as well.

 

just did a compression test and i dont think these number are that great so hopefully it is the timing.
Cylinder 1- 170
Cylinder 2- 175
Cylinder 3- 180
Cylinder 4- 165


Any suggestions?

 

those are weak... your ruining your motor

 

obv. im not running it like that, havent driven it since...... anyhow, timing is dead on. Cleaned everything around the sensors and about to put the lower balance shaft belt and pulley back on. Another thing i didnt mention was that i plugged off the coolant lines going to the front of the intake manifold where (i forget what sensor) is located by the fuel rail. Could that have anything to do with the idle? BBL after i get everything back together and see how it runs for a 2nd time.

 

everythings back together and lined up, runs the exact same but no number 9 code. So i unplugged that IACV to see if it would make a difference and it did. Car died down alot but surged really fast from 1500 to 2000. Now the CEL doesnt come on but i get a code 14 IACV when i scan. This is getting really irritating now. Could taking out the butterflies have been the cause?? The only other thing i did away with was the black box connected to the bottom of the intake manifold that had vaccums and a plug running to it. I dont think its wired into the cars harness since its a civic so i took it off.

 

ok so now im pulling my hair out now, hooked the sensor up that went to the black box under the intake which is connected to the charcoal canister and vaccum ontop of throttle body which i had plugged off before. Car still runs the same and doesnt throw any codes now????

 

purge control is what its called, gonna check my pvc under the intake and spray around the intake manifold gasket since i already sprayed around the spacer and throttle body the other day

 

looks like im pretty much talking to myself in here, guess no one else has a clue or willing to put there 2 cents in. Any how i just ordered new gaskets for the plenum which wont be in til t/m but i cleaned the IAC and FITV and made my own block off plate for the EGR even tho its not plugged into my harness or vaccum ran to it. Dont know what else to do if the new gaskets are the problem since i already changed the throttle body gasket as well. Only thing that seems to make the idling go down but still surges is when i unplug the IAC, so i might swap that out t/m as well since i can get another.

 

new day bump

 

so i got the new plenum gaskets in and.... STILL idles the same.. WTF Im about to give up if a new TPS doesnt work and another IACV doesnt work.

 

so nobody thinks it could be the butterflies i removed?? Another thing i was wondering since the engine has arp head bolts, is there any difference in tq spec compared to stock head bolts??

 

What did you do with the bar that holds the butterflies? Pull it out and plug the holes? With what?

 

did u check the 3 nipples above the intake manifold?

 

i completly removed every so its hollow on the inside, kept the spacer tho