Not sure if I should post this here or in the integra forum....but ill start here.

Ive got a 92 civic hatchback with a JDM GSR swap.
I havent had this car very long so i dont know a TON about it.
What I do know is it runs like garbage.

First off theres something messed up with the idle. When you start the car it revs up to about 2,000, then drops down to almost dying, then slowly goes up to around 500 and sits there, barely idling.
I change the TPS sensor, and that didnt help...so now im not really sure.

Next... I can hear ticking and the car smokes pretty bad when vtec kicks in...so Im going to rebuild the engine, top to bottem.
Ive got a pretty good idea on what i need for parts in order to do that, but I know theres a lot of little things that I will probably forget.

Wondered if I could get some help with a good site to buy from, and a list of parts I will need for the rebuild.

Here is a list of the mods the car has:
GSR b18c JDM motor and trans
everything motor/underhood related is integra (fuel filter/mast cyl)
civic ex tach in vx cluster for full rpm range on tach
2.5 " stainless catback exhaust
bbk intake manifold
Integra type r stock header
70mm throttle body
edlebrock fuel rail
AEM pressure reg
RC 310 injectors
AEM intake
B & M fuel gauge
custom mapped ECU
stock ECU

Thanks in adavance!

Tyler

 

Start with valve stem seals to cure the smmoking during vtec

and for the idle issue:
check for vaccuum leaks
bleed cooling system
clean IACV
remove FITV take apart and screw in the white plastic peice

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

Ive had a lot of hondas/acuras....so im pretty framilar with them, Ive just never owned a GSR, so its a little new.

 

valve stem seals tend to leak under excessive vaccuum load. so when vtec hits the load increases greatly which in turn lets oil squeeze throught he stem seals when they are worn

 

The guy I bought this car from said the motor only had about 60K miles on it. SO Maybe it doesnt need a complete rebuild? Maybe just the top end....which would save me a great deal of money. It just doesnt seem to pull that hard to me. Like I said ive had quite a few hondas, and the vtec on this one just doesnt seem like it should.

Im going to do a compression test today...see how that goes!

 

Anyone else?

 

TTT BEFORE I GO HOME

 

get a valve job. works wonders

 

its funny, sorry to thread jack, i have the same dam ideling problem, and it was after my water ppump and timing belt change.

 

Thats weird because they installed a brand new water pump and timing belt right before I bought the car...

 

So...I did a compression test last night, 223 across the board, all 4 identical. So im thinking the bottem end is probably ok...maybe just have the top end rebuilt?

 

squeeze the water hoes(all the water hoes),this happen to one of my swap eg/b18c1 and i come to found out that the cooling water didnt reach to the aicv,its was a air pock some where and then its was done,running like a champ

 

Sorry to say, any engine will run like garbage with those parts on there. We all use Honda's core, but their components aren't good enough? This could be the reason why there are so many headaches? Run the 240cc injectors and the stock ECU and see how poorly the engine runs with all those parts if your not doing that already.

Do a good valve adjustment. Set your distributor timing to 16.50 degrees. Do you have cam gears? Put them to 0, 0 with the changes below:

bbk intake manifold - Your vaccum level is lower than it would be with the P72 intake manifold. Your "custom ECU" or stock ECU is probably using the fuel values for a lower vaccum column, which means more fuel at idle, unless that was tuned properly. Other than that, check for vaccum leaks.

70mm throttle body - does your intake manifold inlet match this diameter? Regardless, if you want performance, the stock 60mm TB / GS-R manifold will fill the cylinder more in an rpm range compared to the 70mm TB/bbk will. If anything, bore your stock TB and match the P72 intake manifold. Yes, you can play with throttle body adjusts, but it's a waste of time.

edlebrock fuel rail - no reason for this. Did you ever see 100 psi of fuel pressure with an aftermarket rail? POS. Remove and install OEM fuel rail.

AEM pressure reg - remove and install OEM fuel pressure regulator.

RC 310 injectors - Use 240s with the stock ECU and keep the 310s with a tweaked OEM combo and tuned/scaled map. You can actually use 290cc injectors with the stock ECU, just need specific Honda components.

AEM intake - Use the stock arm, which is stock length with a revised OEM air box. (start thinking)

B & M fuel gauge - POS also, get a liquid filled guage or a Honda service fuel pressure guage.

custom mapped ECU - are you using this?

stock ECU - or this?


Keep it simple because putting any aftermarket parts together will hurt reliability and performance.

When it comes to the mechanical and performance aspect, stick with OEM components, built right. The rest is experimenting and theory, just depends the approach you take. I personally stay away from aftermarket. IMO, they are garbage. Some have good quality, but it is not performance, just myth based. Disagree? cool, fine. your car, just a recommendation. good luck.

 

Right now the custom mapped ecu is in it. I am going to put the stock computer in it when I get out of work, and see if that helps any?

 

ttt