Did a search and couldn't find the info I'm looking for. Those air intake ducts that hook up to the stock air box and take in air from the inlet at the front bumper... do they require removal of the front bumper to install? Not that that's a big deal. Just curious.

Thanks

 

I think I've heard of people doing it without removal of the front bumper but heard its a heck of a lot easier if you do.

 

its all most impossible to do it without removing the bumper. You need to remove the stock cooling plate and in order to do that you need to remove the bumper plus why would you want to scratch up ur expensive carbon fiber or kevlar snorkle by trying to squeeze and wiggle it into its place when you can just take off the bumper remove or cut the cooling plate install the snorkle and put the bumper back in

 

i did it without removing the bumper and no scratches, but it was a bitch. At the end, i wish i'd just taken the bumper off, but it is doable if you're careful..

 

Thanks for the info guys. For anyone that has or has seen/heard these intakes, do they make the engine's intake noise any more audible from outside the car/inside the cabin? That's what I'm looking for really, not any measly HP gain. I'm going to try a cheap knock off before investing in anything pricey like the full Password:JDM kit. I don't like the huge empty spot left by the airbox removal made by the tube-type CAIs like the AEM or Fujita (**** like that).

 

i noticed no difference my bc spec III is too loud for me to noticed anyother noises

 

Have you considered the K&N fipk? Its tube style but basically sits in the same place as the oem airbox rather putting the filter down behind the bumper. Cleans up the engine bay but still leaves something there rather than a big gap. I just put mine on saturday and like it. Its hard to hear it too much over my invidia but I can tell a good bit of difference.

 

Yeah I did consider the FIPK but is looks like there's too much potential to suck in hot air, especially at low speeds. Although K&N claims almost 10HP I figure their dyno runs were done with the hood up suckin in "cold" air. Probably insignificant in terms of total performance gain, if any, but it's that **** thing again.

 

Take off the bumper to install the snorkel and while you're at it, cut out the fake brake ducts. Even if you don't route brake cooling tubing it'll help with underhood temps.

 

It's a great idea. Thanks for the tip!!

 

No power difference on the butt dyno but it sound different. It does what it was made to do so can't comlain.

 

I have the PasswordJDM kevlar snorkel

I have to remove bumper and the cross member bar behind the front bumper

 

I was also worried about the FIPK and heat soak, so I installed the AUT cooling panel which directs the air from the front bumper to the stock air box air ram (which is where the FIPK filter sits) Seems to be working well.

 

rather revive an old thread then create a new one for one question :

Do you guys recommend cuting or removing the oem cooling plate when instaling a snorkel?

 

cutting, trim it. i did and it looked better than not having anything there

 

and create massive amounts of drag, increase interior noise, decrease mileage and have a much higher likely hood of your fender liners peeling off and getting torn up by the tires...

The "cooling plate" is designed to force air through the radiator instead of over it - if you really have to use one of these ridiculous snorkels that do nothing more than decrease money in your pocket trim that piece as perfectly around it as possible and use door sill foam to fix any gap.

Or just get a V2 intake and at least gain some hp for your money..

 

heres what mine looked like

 

^clean, and I've never seen that strut bar before!

 

yea sux it got bent up when i wrecked it

 

Thx black, I'll hack that cooling plate and I'll try to make it look oem as much as possible.