Alright guys, I need your help on a few things that have been giving me a hard time getting my d16z6 to run right.

I have a 1995 honda civic sedan with a d16z6 motor that I just swapped out for the older d16??(the motor was shaved and I never knew the exact model engine it was, it was the one with the dip stick on the right side.) But besides that, I swapped the motor and got a few cel codes. a 22, 21, 9 and 41.

Now I have the other motor, wich means I have spare sensors, but I have no clue which sensors need to be changed, and I mean the exact location. I would greatly appreciate it if I can get some pictures on where on the motor these sensores can be found. Thanks

P.s. you don't have to show me the vtec cel's I know where the soliniod is.

And also would any of those cel's cause my car to sputter or overheat?

 

21 and 22 have to do with VTEC...which im assuming your new motor is probably a d16y7 which doesnt have VTEC

9 is a cylinder sensor which i think maybe be for a knock sensor? not to sure about that one

41 is your o2 sensor

 

Code 9 is for the CYL sensor in the distributor housing.

 

Ok, so the o2 sensor is on the exhuast manifold correct? If that's the case, then that has been changed today, the actual sensor was seized, I had to use another pair of headers instead. And for the cyl sensor, you said it was in the distributor? I'm using the distributor from my older motor, and it was a vtec motor also, the reason why vtec isn't working is because my car doesn't have the wiring for it, but I am running a p28. I would greatly appreciate if someone can show me where code 9, can be fixed. And also, everytime I turn the car on, it would rev high, as if the motor was in the middle of the winter, and it would be like 80 outside. I changed the o2 sensor and it still does it, eventually the car warms up and drops idle, but I know that cannot be normal. I'm hoping that fixing the bad sensors would fix that as well. Any more tips/pointers? Etc

 

Usually, to fix code 9, the distributor housing must be replaced. Nonetheless, this code can also be caused by a bad CYL sensor wire (there are two) running between the sensor and the ECU, or even by a bad ECU.

For the high idle, clean the IACV and FITV on the throttle body and also check for a disconnected vacuum hose or a leaking TB or IM gasket.

 

Ok thanks ill make sure to get that done, and ill keep you guys updated for sure.

 

Ok, so I got a different o2 sensor from my older car that never had a problem, and completly changed the distributor. I also looked up another thread for the vtec to be connected, and reset the ecu. I turned the car on, and what do you know.. the same codes are back. So I'm convinced that it could be the wiring, so I should get a civic ex wiring harness(not the motor harness). Hopefully that would get it done. But it doesn't make sense if the other motor didn't have the codes. And also I did clean the iacv and its good now thanks on that one. And as for the overheating, I used the thermostat from my older motor, there a bit different, but should do the same job, and I'm not having problems with it yet. So any ideas?

 

bump

 

any pointers?

 

If you clear the ECU by removing the under-hood 7.5A Back Up fuse for 2 minutes and then run the engine, what codes if any are now thrown?

What problems does the engine currently have?

 

it has a bit of a misfire, nothing too serious, and it will have days when it runs stronger than other days.. i dont know if that makes any sense to you. but ill try that 7.5 back-up light thing you told me to try. i was looking at another post with the same code, and im going to check out the wires as well. i really appreciate your time. i should be back with a response by tonight or tomorow

 

Ok, so I know you have read the other post on the whole spark plug thing and how it can affect your o2 sensor or what not. Well just about yesterday, I changed the spark plugs(ngk) and cap and rotor for new ones at advanced A. And I also did the ignition timing. After this I removed the 7.5 back-up light fuse and waited about 3 mins, and put it back in, and turned the car on. It stayed clear for a good 3 sec. Until codes 21,41, and 9 where back. Now I'm not too worried about the vtec c.e.l, but just mostly for 9 and 41. I tried a different ecu and even a different dizzy. I haven't tried the wiring harness, I checked it, but maybe something is just wrong with it. Some guy is selling me another ex wiring harness for 40. I'm going to end up grabbing that and switching the harness's and see if that does it. I know ron you mentioned something about a ground, do you think there is a single ground that can cause these codes to re-appear? Once again thanks

 

I reread your first post and see that you likely swapped in an OBD0 D16 engine. So I think you are on the right track by installing the correct engine harness and also possibly obtaining an appropriate ECU.

 

it can actually be the other way around.. the motor i had, was from a ek, if im not mistaken it was a 97 sohc, but the i.d(or whatever its actually called ex.d15 etc) was shaved from d16 on. all i know from what the original seller told me was that the motor was from a 97 ek, and the dipstick was located on the corner of the motor. now im not sure what exact motor it is, or if it was 0bd1 or 0. but when i swapped for the z6 it had the wiring that came with the z6, thats why i keep thinking it can be the other wiring from the engin bay to the ecu.. im not sure if a o2 sensor coming from 2 different sohc motors would have an affect on it working. i havent tried a obd0 or obd2 dizzy yet either,i have been trying obd1. im going to just try the wiring harness next, and if not, a obd2 ecu and see what happens. thanks, and im always open to ideas

 

Oh, okay. A stock 97 Civic would have either a D16Y7 or D16Y8 engine that would run with an OBDII ECU. Your replacement D16Z6 engine is OBDI, so you must have an OBDI ECU, such as a P28. Do you have an OBDI ECU? If so, which one?

 

i have a p28, but how do you know if its obd1 or 2?

 

bump?

 

P28 is OBDI, so that's good. I assume the replacement distributor is fully compatible with your D16Z6 engine, right?

Here's how to troubleshoot codes 9 and 41:





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Thanks for the help ron. I got something for you, I changed the ecu today from p28 to p06, and it cleared 21 and 9. It came up with code 19 while the car was still off, and 41 when I turned it on. So this must mean that my p28 is messed up or something, because code 19 is for an automatic tranny. And 41 is still the o2 sensor, so ill just buy a new one I guess. But when I had the p06, it had a very lumpy idle, and wouldn't go past 4k(must be because the ecu is for a auto tranny.) What do you guys think?

 

Yeah, possibly the P28 ECU is bad and causing code 9. The P06 is for a D15 engine and an automatic transmission, so I'm not surprised the D16Z6 engine does not run well with this ECU. Pick up another P28 and go from there. I would also suggest that you test the O2 sensor wires before replacing the sensor.

 

Will do

 

this ecu is going into time-out. i was just involved in a hit and run accident in my four door, and now have to get my car back on the road.