Car is running fine at idle and all the up to 5000 then it starts to break up so I checked the map and tps sensor voltages.

MAP -22 vac=.75v-.9v TPS o%=.5v
0 vac=2.9v WOT=4v



I have checked what the values are in my manual and they definatly arent what mine are. Ronj can ya help me out here? Do you think I need to replace em''

 

^^^^ someone just tell me I need a new one or give me some insight

 

ok well if the car cuts out and ur not getting right voltage my guess is the normal honda dizzy issue with the igniter. if ur not getting proper voltage from the dizzy i dnt think u would get right voltage elsewhere. i could be wrong but just dont forget about the dizzy also what motor and what obd is it

 

also if u have questions for a certain somebody search for their name and private message them

 

96 Civic, right? What's the set up? Is the CEL ON? Have you measured the fuel pressure?

I don't see a major problem with your MAP and TPS readings, though you might try fiddling with TPS adjustment to see whether you can get it to read closer to 4.5V at WOT.

 

ok so its a 94 civic. Its my wifeys. OBD1 of course. Havent really checked anything else. in the haynes manual it says that the map should be at 1.5v high vac and 4 to 4.5v no vaccum. And the message wasnt just directed to ronj but he seems to have the answers. It does have a brand new dizzy on it. A little update. I put a new map sensor on it but still the same 2.9 v

 

I forgot its the stock d15. nothing special.

 

no CEL even when it cuts. just a thought my take could be off about 2000 rpm becasue its an automatic si cluster with the tach and it may just be hitting the stock rev limit. But im still stumped as to why the map and tps are reading those voltages

 

The Haynes MAP voltages are different than those shown in the Civic service manual (see chart below from the 92-95 Civic service manual). The chart suggests to me that your MAP voltages are just fine. I'm also not too worried about the TPS voltages.

 

The rev limit is determined by the ECU not the tach gauge. Does the CEL work? Try measuring the fuel pressure.

 

I know that the tach doesnt determine the rev limit. LOL Im saying it only breaks up at like 5500 to 6000 then I shift. I think the tach is off a couple thousand rpm and Im actually hitting rev limit. Anoter update> found out that the distributor was complete clocked to the front of the engine making it about 4 degrees retard. Fixed that and now it is running fairly well. I will check the fuel pressure but I have to go get a gauge at jegs or something. unless there is an easier way.

 

I am going to try and clock the TPS sensor a little bit but I have to take the TB off to notch the screws or whatever the hell honda put in there so I can loosen them.

 

Haha...I didn't understand what you were saying. You could be right about the inaccurate dash tach.



Nice find with the timing. Skip the fuel pressure measurement if you think the ignition timing correction has solved the problem.

 

This is more than likely my problem right here. ^^^



I cant remember which one it is. I would imagine its the b7 but i will update later my wife just went to work. Thanks RON for all the help. We just got the car in a trade and it has been a two day nightmare figuring out what was wrong with it. I had to remove an aftermarket cruise control and all the wiring plus make a harness for the rats nest that was suppesed to be the aftermarket gauges. I probably pulled out three or four wires that were 12v+ laying on metal. plus had to put new carpet in it.

 

Nice work. Sounds like you are making good progress.

 

Im getting there. Still having problems with the radio wiring. It was cut. So the radio was wired directly to the battery. I was doing some testing on the wires and found my 12v switched (yellow/red) wire but I cant find the memory wire. I did find a white wire in the harness that only put out 4v or so but it was only on with the the switch. Any Ideas

 

Radio memory comes from the WHT/BLU wire protected by 7.5A fuse 32 under the hood. This is the BACKUP fuse used to clear ECU codes.

 

Ok didnt check or know that at all. I will look tomorrow. Im thinkin the wire with 4v was white and gray. I do know it wasnt the blue and white wire. Cuz I checked that one about 5 times. I did remember it was the white and blue once you said something.

 

Another update> The engine is still breaking up. I finally took it to about 7000 according to the tach, which is about 1500 to 2000 past the breaking up. Any ideas now. How about that ICM or other dizzy problems

 

Inspect all ignition system components and test the coil and igniter unit. Also measure the fuel pressure with and without the FPR vacuum hose connected.

 

The blk/yel wire should see 12v with koeo. correct? what else should I check? I know the dizzy is only about a month old, but that doesnt really mean anything. Im thinking that the spark plugs may be the wrong heat range or the wrong gap.

 

Yeah, battery voltage on the BLK/YEL wire in the distributor. It's worth looking at the plugs too. If they're fine, I'd shift focus to the fuel system - pressure, FPR, injectors.