Yup, I'm finally going to do it, it seems. After being in the MR2 world for ~10 years, I'm moving on. Personal circumstances have forced me to consolidate down to one car.

I'll put this up here for those that don't want to read the thread:
ASKING PRICE - $11,850 OBO

The short facts: I'm the 3rd owner, AFAIK. The chassis has 116,8XX miles, the powertrain has ~40k (? JDM clip). It's a T-Top car with ALL options - power everything, leather, cruise, A/C, P/S, ABS.

The gen3 clip was swapped complete - body harness, engine harness, etc no hacks. This car is probably one of the most SOLID SW20's I've been in. It is also IMHO, the best possible ride quality you can get for amount the car is dropped (little to no gap all around). I drive this car all around Chicago where the roads suck. Like any lowered car with bigger rims, the big bumps aren't fun, but it soaks up all the rest MUCH better than all the coilover cars I've been in, and the majority of lowered vehicles I've been in, in general.

The interior is SUPER CLEAN - I'd give it a 9/10. The paint is original Toyota 202 Black and has seen better days (I'd give it a 6.5/10), but still shines great. A complete buff job would do wonders for this car. On cloudy days or dusk it looks like a million bucks. In the sun you can see all the imperfections. However it has a super deep reflection and no fading/hazing except slightly on the rear spoiler (which should buff out)... I can't even get a camera to capture it, it so faint. The car has no rust except a quarter sized bubble at the top right of the windshield.

The car has never seen snow in my possesion and has been rained on less than 5 times. The previous owner said some lady backed into the front/side of the car in a parking lot and dented the RF door and fender pretty decently. The insurance replaced that door and fender and some of the red under the new paint at the bottom of the door can be seen in bright light. The door could use to be repainted, but it's in the shadow of the bottom half of the door and hasn't bothered me enough in 7 years to do anything about it.

The car has a clean clear title and carfax. The car drives as straight as an arrow. With the help of a 40 year+ performance vet, we dialed in the alignment on a brand new Hunter photo/laser alignment rack to the EXACT specs I wanted for camber, caster, and toe all the way around and it shows. The car tracks perfectly straight at any speed. All of the wheels and tires balance perfectly. There is absolutely ZERO shake in the steering wheel at any speed - part of why this car feels like the most solid SW20 I've ever driven. The car also has all of the 93+ factory suspension upgrades (xmember, tie rods, sway bar, etc).

With the seats, steering wheel, and all power functions working flawlessly, it feels like a much newer car. I have put well over $15,000 in parts alone into this car to make it the ultimate street car, IMO.

Here is a rundown of what the car has (along with estimated prices for parts):

Exterior

-93 front lip [$100]
-OEM Toyota JDM clear corners [$50]
-OEM Toyota solid sidemarkers [$50]
-Hella H4 headlight housings/bulbs [$50]
-Authentic GReddy Gracer Sideskirts [$350]
-94+ Tail lights [$300]

Suspension, Chassis, Wheels and Tires

-17x7.5 +35 5Zigen 5ZR Copse wheels, 215/40/17 Falken FK451 GR Betas
-18x9 +44 5Zigen 5ZR Copse wheels, 255/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sports [$1,500]
-Eibach Sportline Springs [$200]
-Koni Yellows front, JDM Bilsteins rear [$500]
-Complete Prothane bushings all around [$100]
-New TwosRUs Ball joints, front and rear [$100]
-New TowsRUs Inner and Outer front tie rods [$160]
-New OEM 93+ Toyota rear tie rods [$125]
-93+ Rear Subframe
-New High & Tight rear sway bar endlinks [$100]
-Autopower bolt-in roll bar [$350?]

Interior, Sound

-Corbeau A4 Seats in Red [$600]
-Corolla S red stitched steering wheel [$100]
-Celica GTS airbag [$200]
-Redline Goods black leather shift boot [$50]
-Skunk2 gunmetal 400g shift **** with red lettering [$50]
-Double gauge pillar pod [$25]
-Pioneer headunit
-Infinity Reference components in the doors
-MTX amp power interior speakers
-12" Infinity subwoofer behind passenger seat
-Kicker D-class amp with remote bass control [$700 total sound system?]

Electronics

-Zeitronix ZT2 Wideband with:
---Multigauge digital 52mm gauge with peak/hold for boost, EGT, AFR
---Zeitronix 3.5 bar map sensor
---Zeitronix warning box with LED/siren and relay output trigger
---K-type EGT probe with shielded wiring
---USB cable in glove box for laptop hookup [Total - $670]
-Blitz Turbo Timer [$75]
-Blitz SSBC electronic boost controller [$150]
-Independent fog light switch (for foglights on, lights off)
-MSD Digital 6 Ignition Amplifier with 2-step adjustable launch rev limitter
-Launch control switch wired to cruise control switch on clutch
-MSD Tach adapter
-MSD Blaster 3 Coil
-MSD 8.5mm Ignition Wires [Total - $400]

Powertrain

-Complete Gen3 Clip (compression: 178psi +/- 4psi) [$3800]
-Kelford 262 Intake Cam with 10.5mm lift [$350]
-Gen3 240 intake cam on the exhaust side with 8.5mm lift
-Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears [$200]
-New OEM gen3 tensioner, belt [$150]
-New seals for:
---Water Pump
---Oil Cooler
---Distributor
---Valve Cover
---Exhaust Manifold
---Water Neck
---Throttle Body
-Caldina GT Sidefeed Intake Manifold (Ceramachromed) [$300]
-ATS Phenolic Intake manifold spacer/gasket [$100]
-Aluminum adapter for flipped Gen3 TB [$50]
-Polished Aluminum 3" cold pipe [$150]
-Ebay Intercooler [$100]
-2.5" full custom hotpipe (Ceramachromed) [$100]
-Synchronic BOV [$200]
-Modified Gen3 heatshield (Ceramachromed)
-Firewall heatshield (Ceramachromed)
-4" aluminum intake pipe (Ceramachromed) w/ 9" S&B cone filter [$125]
-ATS GT28RS Turbo kit with:
---Rerouted External wastegate, Tial 38mm polished
---Polished Compressor Cover
---Entire hotside from adapter to downpipe SEAM welded for no possible leaks
---Entire hotside chrome ceramic header painted [Total ~$2,500]
-GReddy PEx exhaust [$700]
-Fidanza lightweight Flywheel with brand new friction surface [$300]
-ATS Clutchmasters stage 4+ unsprung clutch [$475]
-New OEM TOB [$50]
-Additional 4ga. ground run from chassis to trans to intake manifold

The Good:
-Car looks super exotic
-Engine makes tons of low end torque for a turbo-4
-Car went 11.9@116.6mph (capable of 350whp+ by weight) w/meth (meth system no longer installed)
-Feels/looks like a much newer car

The Bad:
-Paint imperfections show it's age a bit
-A/C included but not hooked up (only compressor removed)
-Cruise control included, but not hooked up
-Passenger side T-Top drips slowly in heavy rain

Pics to follow...

 

 

 

Thats sex. Wheres the intercooler? My buddy has a huge one on his and he cut the back part out for it haha

 

It's a sidemount. See the vents in front of the rear wheels? The left side feeds the air filter, and the right side feeds the intercooler.

Sidemounts have been proven decent up to 400whp. Higher on E85. If I were to keep it I had plans to do an E85 tune. I have a Power FC and 850cc injectors that could be negotiated into the deal if someone wants to do that. I'd expect ~375whp with the cam gears adjusted and running E85.

FWIW, she went 11.9@116.6mph with stock cams, stock intake manifold, and a little bit of methanol. I took the methanol kit off because the boost switch failed on me on the highway, not turning the pump on, and blew a ringland. I put a fresh JDM gen3 longblock on it this spring with PERFECT compression and vowed never to use meth again. E85 is much better... no switches or external pumps to fail on you.

 

Ah, no ****. I was asking bc I am thinking about purchasing a friends...

Removed thread, was just using a reference =D

However Im not quite sure how long a 500hp one would last being a DD.. Im asuming yours is more DD friendly? =D

 

Mine is absolutely DD friendly. It still has the gen3 factory boost cut at ~18.5psi. That's about the upper limit of safe boost on pump gas anyway. So even if you were a moron and tried to crank the boost on this car, the CAR wouldn't let you kill it...hehhe

And the JDM gen3 map-based ECU (stock from toyota in Japan from 94-99) is LEAPS AND BOUNDS better than the crappy AFM based USDM computer. Idles like a rock, throttle transitions are smooth.. no flaky AFM to go out on you, and vented BOV makes no difference.

 

Car would be 10 times sweeter with a snorkel

 

Your friend has a nice car. Those SC61's are beasts for peak power. It's too bad they spool like pigs. Just my opinoin, though. Those turbos don't make brutal torque until after 4500rpm. The GT28RS in my car will never make 500whp, but it does make significant torque before 3500rpm - much better for a fun DD that you don't have to be doing 75mph+ to enjoy.

Again, that's my opinion.

 

No ****, thanks for telling that to me man.. Ive been thinking about getting his MR2 however I dont know **** about them, Im a Honda guy =\

I was just considering it because it was different haha. Lemme take a night to think about it, its def. something Im interested in.

Ya haha I knew there was a big turbo difference but I mean, Im going to and from work.. Going to my girls house, etc.. I dont need 500hp to do all that haha. I just wanna be able to play occasionally, thats all

Also, dont you think with the intercooler being in the spot its in that it can actually damage the motor with rain being able to get in it like that?

 

Snorkels are for ricers.

They HURT performance. The car was designed with full plastic undertrays the length of the car. They guide airflow from the bottom of the car up through the engine bay and out the engine lid. The fins on the engine lid were designed to help air passing over the top of the car to SUCK air out of the engine compartment.

When you put a snorkel on it, you shove air down into the engine compartment where it hits all the air that is naturally trying to get out and stalls it out, basically making yourself a HOT air intake

 

 

ttt

 

Entertaining offers.

 

Fawking nice!! Bump for a fellow 2 owner, I wish my interior was as clean as yours.

 

awesome car looking for any trades at the moment??

 

bumperz

 

SOLD.