97 cl h22 swap (yes i have searched)
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From: manchester, tn, usa
97 cl h22 swap (yes i have searched)
my question is more on the wiring...i have a 97 cl...i am wanting to stay obd2...i know in order to do that i will need to find a obd2 p13 (very rare i know)...and i know i will need a 96-99 h22...my question is with the obd2 p13 and the obd2 h22 will that be just a plug and play with my cl harness? or will there be mods i need to make? help would be appricated
Re: 97 cl h22 swap (yes i have searched)
Well it seems quite obvious you haven't searched as they are clearly listed in the Accord FAQ H22 swap section.
http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...hread.php?t=29
http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...hread.php?t=29
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: manchester, tn, usa
Re: 97 cl h22 swap (yes i have searched)
clearly i have already saw and looked over that post...and if you scroll down and read where it talks about harness and ecu it talks about none ex cars...now sense my car came stock with the f22b1 (which is a vtec motor...there for meaning i am already wired for vtec) does that mean all i should have to add is the knock sensor? or is there more than that? and yes i know wires might need to be extended...so like i had said before what i am asking is with a obd2 p13, a obd2 h22 and running the knoch sensor wire...is that all to the wiring?
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Re: 97 cl h22 swap (yes i have searched)
Are you not seeing the IAB wires? The extending of other wires? Any of that section?
*Wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
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gianinline
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Mar 5, 2006 09:58 AM
