hey, well i have a 98 2dr accord 4cyl with the autocrap tranny.

Last week noticed that my car is really sluggish all of a sudden ie when you floor it the car downshifts no problem but the acceleration doesn' increase as it should. It still acccelerating as if I was giving it light throttle.

I' swapped out the NGK Iridiums with NGK G power platinums and still same stuff. The wires looked intact and no rips or anything like that. THe iridiums only had about 55-56 000 KM on them as well as the wires.

The air filter is KN re-usable OEM replacment has only about 10-12 000 KM and have given it a quick cleaning as well.

Still at the same point. I do notice the engine seems to be working harder as it has a deeper tone then it. It feels like somethign is holding it back.

As a result I think, its running hotter, but the temp guage is showing normal operating temp. As when I open the hood after a drive its extremely hot. Even the PROP rod to hold up the hood is hot to touch. It has never ever been li ke that before.

It would be greatly appreciated if anyone has any tips. I'm at my ends with this car I just replaced the tranny about 5000-6000Km ago. And just need this thing to get me another year without blowing up!

EDIT: It was a clogged cat! Shoulda listen to AFACCORD woulda saved 60 in diagnostics!

 

No check engine light? Is your tranny slipping? A haynes manual at your local autoparts store will help alot. My personal suggestion, Use Bg intake system cleaner and run Lucus Fuel injector cleaner. See if problem get any better, if not at least you have a full tune up now. go buy the haynes manual and procede with more diagnostics.
P.S. Dont give up on it, i love my F23a1, im now hoping something goes wrong so i can fix the damn thing somemore, haha!

 

NO CEL at all which is weird. I'm ordering 7mm denso wires this week for the hell of it.

Tranny is not slipping as far as I can tell. Its shifting like butter when you drive easy. Its slightl jerking when your driving it hard as its always been. The tranny i a MCJA JDM tranny replaced less than 8000KM ago. I was getting wicked mileage with new tranny up until last week 8-8.6L/100 KMx now its gone to 10-10.5L/100km since its the cars been acting up.

I ran a concentrated fuel injector cleaner abotu half a tank ago and it hasn't done anything. The car is not boggin though so i didn't think i needed it.

I'll try a TB cleaner this week. But I really doub't it. I might just take it to a shop but i'm broke and diagnostic labour is always more than straight labour which is what I'm afraid of.

On another bored someoen said check the timing which is a bit harder for me to do but I can do it on the weekend.

any other tips?

 

open up the oil fill cap, is there white grease looking stuff inside it ?
pull out your dipstick is there white grease on it?
if so check your coolant level.

this is just a idea, but this happend to me.
i felt that my engine was very sluggish after the winter, and i was lossing coolant like mad. my low oil pressure light came on after i drove it for another 3-4 months. i bought a jdm f23 with 50k miles for 670$ and droped it in. the end result was a craked block...

just to be safe do a compression test.
non = compression with loss of oil or coolant - headgasket
= compression lossing coolant into oil - cracked block like me.

i hope this isnt ur problem...

p.s. are you feeling this power loss with ur a.c on :-p

 

Nope no white grease or milky oil on dip stick or oil cap. Coolant to the top.

I don't have money to just drop in an engine its a good 800-900 w labour I just did the tranny awhile back too.

This power loss is not with a/c on and i'm afraid to even see what would happen if the a/c is on. Its like the engine feels liek its choking.

I don't know how to do a compression test. But i do have oil loss. I always have to add oil every 1000K just a bit not too much though.

 

well thats a good sign, that means you dont have block or head problems.

next thing i woud do is replace your dizzy Rotor and cap, this is a 20$ replacement, if there is alot of wear to the cap and rotor your loss of power can be apparent.

if u want to do a compression test just to see if ur headgasket is in good shape then all u need to do is go buy a compression tester 20-50$, disable power to dizzy buy dissconecting the power that goes to it. unscrew each spark plug and screw tester inplace for all 4 cyl. when the tester is screwed in go into the car and push on gas and crank engine for 10 seconds. then go see what ur compression is - repeat for other 3 cyl. 100-160 lbs is normal but it should be the same all the way across.

 

Thats goign to have to wait till the weekend. Hopefulyl I'll order parts tnoight from rockauto.com they take about 2 -3days to come into canada. I refuse to buy from canada lol.

Although I'm debating on whether to take it toa shop or not. How can a cap and rotor need replacing in 50K KM? The last one i replaced was for the firt time at 150K.....I could tel it was the original one when I replaced it.

 

Your catalytic converter might be plugged up. Have someone rev engine while you check for good flow out of your exit pipe(s)

 

"...full of sound and fury, signifying nothing." - Thank you Mr. Shakespeare

 

Just tried this with a co-worker over lunch break. Lost of pressure my hand easily come off.

 

May still want to try to pull the codes anyway. Seems like I have heard this problem caused with either the tps or the vss.

 

but there are no CEL lights. woudl it stil have a code then?

 

I'm not just quoting this guy because it's fun to do. You won't be able to tell by sticking your hand over the exhaust either.

 

Very well could be a code that you haven't noticed the light in the past. It is so easy to do and only takes a min. You can do it with a paper clip.

 

Sure you can or you can unbolt the cat and see if it runs better

 

the only problem is I live in canada. Unbolting a CAT is not easy lol.

I'm gonna have to get a shop to torch the bolts out as the bolst are not gonna come out easyily at home.

But since my accord has 2 O2 sensors. One before cat in header and one DIRECLY SMACK DEAD in the MIDDLe of the CAT. A clogged cat would definetly show a CEL wouldn't it?

Especially if its acting the way it is.

I will have to wait until saturday to unbolt the CAT at a shop.

 

1) you dont need a rotor and cap, check spark on all wires, if good you dont need a cap and rotor.
2) Next putting your hand on the exhaust is a fast way to burn your hand.
3) Is your engine shaking really bad?
4) Get a haynes manual and dont waste money on misc. parts that wont make a difference. Diagnosis with haynes manual.
5) just my 2 cents worth of info. good luck!

 

yes youll get the cel and prolly have to spend more money replacing bolts etc +labor.

 

Unless I am mistaken, not all problems will cause a CEL. I was thinking that the ECU has to see the problem so many times or for so long before you actually see the CEL come on. However, it will still store the code without turning on the CEL.
What is the first thing that should be done when you think you have a problem?
1. CHECK FLUIDS
2. CHECK FOR A CODE.
It takes little effort and ZERO dollars. Take your unpainted metal paper clip and bend it to complete a circuit at your diagnostic port. I think on 98 it is pin #8 and #13 but you may want to verify that first. Then turn the key on and count the flashes of the CEL. Each long flash at the beginning is 10 and the short flashes are 1. So 2 long flashes followed by 4 short flashes is code 24. A Haynes manual will tell you what that is or you can call autozone or Honda and they will tell you what that code is for. After that then you can start guessing at problems. If there is no code it could be that the engine is starting to lay down on you mechanically which doesn't give a code. Also maybe dirty injectors or bad gas. Should have a code if it is converter problem.

 

Fcucking genius. Boy I learned something new today. Thanks. I'd like to know where exactly it was I suggested this

 

hey moron i did'nt say you did! Stop being a Gina and read closer. Since you want to try to flame me here it goes. Hey genius, how do you check for a good flow out of the "exit pipes"?? its called a MUFFLER not "exit pipes" ! Open mouth insert foot before you look even worse noob, dueces!

 

We'll I tried the Paper Clip thing As i've done in the past to pull codes when the light is on. It didn't give me anything with the paper clip thing thing time which is what I expected.

And for the sticking hand on exhaust thing. I used a thick cloth, and this is how some shops usually check for exhausts leaks, at least thats what they did to mine after installing new pipes to make sure its all good. Of course its done when the engine is cold.

I'm going to clean my KN filter tomorrow even though its pretty clean, hold it up to sun and u can see right through it. Some of its dirty, but I've driven with worse OE dirty filters and never had these problems.

 

Just an observation from left field: This happened suddenly. It amounts to a loss of mileage of 20%, a loss of power, and a lot hotter engine. I'm thinking timing, (a belt slipped a cog) or maybe something around the distributor. BEFORE spending any money LOOK closely. The distributor is covered with dirt. Do you see any new clean area, where something may have moved? This sort of thing. My '92 LX is giving me problems, so I feel for you!

 

hey you know what that was my first impression when all this happened as it won't throw a CEL either.

I don't have timing light to check timing but will check the distributor area as I was unaware you could adjust timing on my generation accord like that.

I prob will take it toa shop cuz I know you can fark **** up by doing it wrong. Or i can try the manual way by rotating crank pulley and see if marks like up.

 

1) air filter is more then likely not your problem, run without the air filter and drive alittle ways to see if theres a difference.
2) Did you get a haynes manual yet?
3) timing is not adujsted by distributor, your computer controls timing