its a d16a6 obd1 the engine is surging when i hold the throttle at a steady spot and i dont know wat it could be ive replaced alot of the sensors the dizzy and spark plugs and wires are new, it has an obd1 map senor, i wasnt sure wat it call it before but the engine is surging

 

bump

 

Have you checked the TPS?

 

wat do you mean check it wat should i do to check it, its plugged in and i actually swapped a different throttle body and it ran even worse so wat should i do regarding the tps

 

oh ya i checked the wires at it and there are 3 that go to it

 

let me check it again tomorrow sorry i got carried away switching the throttle bodys and messing with the iacv to check the wires, i got the diagram from my other post so ill check them i just felt like i didnt describe it accuratly i said it was missing and running rough but its more of a surging at a set throttle

 

also when i tried to see if my cell was working it didnt turn on, my battery light comes on nut not my cell light

 

bump

 

The CEL should illuminate for 2 seconds and then turn off when the key is turned to ON(II). Has it ever worked? If not, check whether someone removed the CEL light bulb from the cluster.

 

i have seen it turn on it randomly but not for long but it doesnt come on when i turn the key to on

 

You need the CEL working as it may give you important information about your problem. Inspect the CEL bulb and the CEL wires at cluster and ECU connectors.

 

Alrright I'll check it out my coolant doesn't read anymore either but occiasonally it'll read when it's all the way Hott but not for long so idk if it could be the cluster or not I just want my engine to run right so I can finaly drive it

 

I would test the tps voltage at idle and at WOT. Search for the service manual here on this forum for the voltages. The tps voltage should be a stead change and not flutter around. I would also hook up a vacuum gauge to look for vacuum leaks. For your coolant gauge issue, sub a known working gauge cluster in for the test. If the known working gauge is doing the same. Then you have a wiring issue to the coolant temp sensor or the temp sensor is bad.

 

Check whether the connector for the 1-wire temp sending unit located under the distributor is loose or dirty. Grounding the wire in the connector to the engine should cause the gauge needle to rise toward Hot. If this happens, the connector may have been loose or dirty, or the sending unit is bad.

 

but if my check engine light is not working and my coolant is working intermintantly (sp) could there be a problem with my cluster, im gonna take the cluster out and try and buy a si one

 

ill check the sensor though

 

To avoid replacing parts unnecessarily, do some checking and testing. It's pretty easy to check the CEL bulb, temp gauge, and few wires.