Used motor stores and "parts only" warranty issues ... feedback?
bought shortblock from "HIGH QUALITY - PRE TESTED - CLEANED - 6 MONTH WARRANTY*" local company
install motor, no start.
tow to shop, have converted to obd2 ($300), rough. have valves adjusted ($150), still so rough it's undrivable. Compression tests at 90/105/125/125psi.
motor seller guy says "omg we test everything i dunno how it would have got out of our tests like that, bring it in i'll give you another one"
so i'm out the 450 for installation, plus I have to uninstall/reinstall, just to get another potentially tested (and potentially ****ed) motor.
it's been suggested I file a BBB complaint and request a refund or split costs or reinstallation ... anyone been up against this before? Would that stand a chance?
install motor, no start.
tow to shop, have converted to obd2 ($300), rough. have valves adjusted ($150), still so rough it's undrivable. Compression tests at 90/105/125/125psi.
motor seller guy says "omg we test everything i dunno how it would have got out of our tests like that, bring it in i'll give you another one"
so i'm out the 450 for installation, plus I have to uninstall/reinstall, just to get another potentially tested (and potentially ****ed) motor.
it's been suggested I file a BBB complaint and request a refund or split costs or reinstallation ... anyone been up against this before? Would that stand a chance?
not really...as they all clearly state somewhere that doesnt include installation or nething like that....if it doesnt say it anywhere then you may have a shot
the site does say "Warranty does not cover any cost of shipping, labor, towing, installation, dismantling, reinstallation, transportation claim, or any other related labor costs."
the leg i'm standing on is that it also says everything's pre-tested and this obviously wasn't...
the leg i'm standing on is that it also says everything's pre-tested and this obviously wasn't...
Compression test kit is $40-50; throw the motor on the stand, hook up the starter to a battery, test each cylinder.
This is something you should've done prior to even installing it. Guys like that POS who sold you the motor don't dynotest or even compression test the motor.
If it's "guaranteed good" and you assumed it was good because of his statements; especially if you have paperwork stating "guaranteed good", take him to small claims. You acted on his good word and he did not deliver; due to this you're out some money. This is similar liability to buying computer parts that are FCC and UL certified that start on fire and blow out other components. Just because their warranty states something doesn't make it true.
Additionally, if the mechanic replaced parts and the initial diagnostic was wrong, ream them. You can take them to small claims and recover the full cost of labor as they lied to you or did not perform the work properly.
What you do is go to a shop that'll buy and replace the motor for you; preferably a dealer and you shop around; ask what the book time is, and work a deal. If the motor they get is trashed, they are liable. It costs more, but you avoid BS like this.
Additionally, when you change out the motor do the wiring and hard to reach parts; it's cheap to do it then and easy.
This is something you should've done prior to even installing it. Guys like that POS who sold you the motor don't dynotest or even compression test the motor.
If it's "guaranteed good" and you assumed it was good because of his statements; especially if you have paperwork stating "guaranteed good", take him to small claims. You acted on his good word and he did not deliver; due to this you're out some money. This is similar liability to buying computer parts that are FCC and UL certified that start on fire and blow out other components. Just because their warranty states something doesn't make it true.
Additionally, if the mechanic replaced parts and the initial diagnostic was wrong, ream them. You can take them to small claims and recover the full cost of labor as they lied to you or did not perform the work properly.
What you do is go to a shop that'll buy and replace the motor for you; preferably a dealer and you shop around; ask what the book time is, and work a deal. If the motor they get is trashed, they are liable. It costs more, but you avoid BS like this.
Additionally, when you change out the motor do the wiring and hard to reach parts; it's cheap to do it then and easy.
shop is waiting for a leakdown tester, eta wednesday, then i'll give motor seller a chance to make it right before filing BBB complaint. it's not right that i'm out $1000 on a "pre-tested blah blah blah" motor.
and this is my 2nd and last motor swap - your way sounds brilliant and if i ever have to do another I will do my research on the pre-testing!
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