I am working on 97 accord brakes.


I changed a rotor and pads due to the front right brake being stuck on which put the old rotor and pads thru some serious heat. My question is, is the caliper really frozen?

-Once I step on the brakes the caliper holds the rotor firmly, I cannot move the wheel.
-If i open the bleeder valve the caliper releases and I can turn the wheel by hand (the pads are still in contact with the rotor, but it moves)
-also, I put a C clamp on the caliper to push it all the way in. It would not budge until I loosened the bleeder

It is like there is a check valve in the brake line. Is this a symptom of a shot caliper?

 

sounds normal to me, but you might of put air in the system depending on if you closed the bleeder valve up before pressing the brakes down again.

I use a pry bar on the front rotors to get the caliper to move in. but if u never used a pry bar its hard to explain where to pry against.

Check your caliper slides, slap pads on and bleed the brake system, and you should be fine.

 

I cleaned up the slides with a scotch pad and oiled them up.

Its not normal... I apply pressure to the brakes and the front right will not release until I open the bleeder. I drive the car on jackstands up to 40 MPH and the front right wont spin. If I stick a crowbar between the wheel studs and I can barely get the wheel to move.

The best analogy I can use is; Its like there is a check valve in the brake line, the only way to release hydraulic pressure on the one caliper is to open the bleeder.

I have dealt with frozen calipers before but this is weird.

 

how did the rubber boots look, on caliper piston and slides? just to rule out torn, or missing boots..

i guess a corroded piston/caliper bore wouldn't allow the bleeder to release it... i'm with you on the "check valve" like symptom, although i'm unaware of an actual check valve.

also.. did you use oil on the slides or grease? i noticed you typed oil but i wasn't sure if you just misspoke.

 

but the caliper does move in and out correct? even if you have to open bleeder to get the caliper to push in it will go in right? Also have your replaced the pads yet,bleed the system, and still having this problem?
also wondering about you stating you used oil not greese (sly-glide)

 

i had that happen on my 97 integra it sucked bad, the boot on the caliper piston was all chewed up and wouldnt allow it to go back in, do not go buy the rebuild kit, they are worthless. i just went to autozone and they had one it cost around 75$ total because i needed pads too. just took it off and put it on. wasent hard needed an impact to get the caliper bolts off but 20min tops.
good luck

 

grease on the slide, correct.


caliper does move, but only with the bleeder open. I used a C clamp to push it in.


A friend that owns a euro repair shop said that sometimes rubber brake lines can get clogged.

 

Yeah I've heard of the rubber brake hoses coming apart on the inside and acting as a check valve, may be possible to swap hoses and see if the problem follows to the other side

 

Hey, did you undo the resevoir cap when you do this?

 

I don't see why that would matter, the brakes should release when my foot leaves the brake pedal.

 

No fluid would come out if itwas clogged right? if the caliper is moving then i would do the brakes, make sure to bleed it, then test drive it it would pull to that side super hard and youll know if the caliper is staying stuck down.

 

No fluid would come out if itwas clogged right? if the caliper is moving then i would do the brakes, make sure to bleed it, then test drive it it would pull to that side super hard and youll know if the caliper is staying stuck down.