Hello my name is joseph...
I have been building a car for road racing and weekend misc. use sense 2006.. lagging i know..
here is my problem
I want to get rid of all wiring that i dont need and make everything as direct as possible..
battery under dash/ both fuse boxes under dash (NO. a/c,heat,deffrost,no SRS) keeping basic radio
what would be the best way to do this reliably?
i want engine separate from chassis wiring

is a PAINLESS kit the best way to consolidate everything to a smaller fuse panel?
this is the last big step of the project help me please!!!

 

I have this very setup. I have a K24 swap and use Hybrid Racings race harness. I do not have a single factory harness in my car except the engine harness. What setup are you using?

 

The Painless-type harness would work well for you. Essentially, you'll want to start from scratch. Modifying the existing OEM harness would be a nightmare. Do be aware that there is some science involved with making a good, reliable harness. User Ekasey has made some posts here in the past about it. I'd also search for "Wiring" or "Wire harness" using these instructions: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2576327 I'm actually not sure how much this has been covered in detail before, unfortunately. There might also be some information in the Hybrid forum, and maybe the Drag Racing forum.

 

The painless kits are good, but I bought one and never used it.

Its pretty simple really, I was scared out of my mind to wire my car, but a buddy helped me and it was pretty easy. I think my issue was to that I'm not that good of visualizer(sp).

Beware it take A LONG TIME.

The basics are this...

Batt + to kill switch side A resetable break of 100 or 150 amps

Killswitch side B to ignition system To starter and alt POWER pickups (you can also go to the/a fuse panle from here if you have things on switchs that you would like to run when the ignition would be off.)

From the ignition switch you wire in the power and out to a momentary switch. The other side of this switch goes to the starter trigger wire.

From the fuse panel, I run another 50amp breaker going into the fuse panel. On the panel I have all of accecories fused and running out of it.

Probably missing some stuff but that's a vasic run down

 

Stripping down a stock harness isn't all that bad. Get your wiring diagrams for the car and figure out which systems you want to eliminate. Go through everything methodically. Keep in mind that some systems share power or ground with others. You are always better off using factory connectors. When you remove wires from the harness clip them off a few inches from the plug. Once you are done clipping wires you can depin them from the plug. If you are lucky you can remove the plug completely.

 

Thanks for the replys the motor is jdm B18C 97 R with 4.928 final drive.. is the 12-fuse painless good or 8-fuse better?

 

I will be driving this car on the street maybe 3 days a week.. . are there any downsides to the painless kit?

all of my wiring is already out except for the rear cabin harness

i was planning on putting the battery under the dash, would there be a better place for it?

 

Check the rules of the class you intend to race in and that they allow you to remove all that stuff. Some classes requires that stuff stays in the car.

 

do any classes allow no cage? i think time attacks have something like that... the car is more for fun.. not competing

i have'nt really thought about classes but im sure im already pushed up pretty high in the classes because of spherical bearings all around ... i think anyway

 

You can get on track without a cage/bar. Yes. But is it advised, well... Not really. You could run a few HPDE events and whatnot without one. Can you clarify this though? You are totally rewiring your geared up ITR powered track rat, asking about classing and you sound like you are opposed to a cage.??? Hopefully I am just misreading your post, but it seems you're a bit confused on what exactly you want to do with the car.
How about a 4 point roll bar?

 

With the fun comes danger ...Your safety is the first thing you should be thinking about.
Be smart and safe.. start looking into cages or something bolt in

 

yes i decided to re-wire the whole car... because i started messing with wire tucking... the bay and got carried away going under the dash (wanting to eliminate all un-used stuff) when i pulled the ac/heater and srs....
I OPENED A BIG CAN OF WORMS .lol

the goal of the car is to have a fun weekend track car .. that can be just as comfortable on the street... i set my sights on making the car as light as possible and keep full interior and carpet...

 

That sounds like a fun street/track car, rather than a competitive race car. Given that, don't worry about classing rules. The only downsides to a harness like that would be if you build it poorly (in which case it will give you problems left and right).

Zephyr's advice was good too, especially if you're on a budget (no idea if you are or not). And actually, re-reading your first post, that might make things a liiittle easeier if you want to keep your radio and speakers.

 

after going through all the wiring.. its really confusing.. i was'nt under the impression that wires spliced off MID WIRE.... to other features ..LOL...

i know there can be issues of making a poor quality harness... thats why i want to avoid anything near poor quality and get it done correctly..

i do not want to out source this to a wiring shop

how dos the painless kit connect to factory switches? and plugs IE taillights and headlights? do they have to be soldered?

 

It's begining to turn out to be anything but "painless" huh.

It's a shame there isnt more simple documentation out there. and even more of a tragedy that there are only a handful of shops out there that actually do this and make great harnesses.It keeps the cost up.

 

yes this wiring is becoming a BIG pain.. i figured it would be easy.. i made 2 wire tuck and sleeved engine harnesses.. i figured the interior/chassis harness was simular.. but its not.. i'll post updates using the advice given above

 

with all the painless kits ive done in race cars, muscle cars, etc, ive used the factory connectors for switches and lights, i eaither re-pin them if the parts are availible, or solder and heat shrink them.

the best advice i can gove you is to sit down, and figure out everything youi want in the car. be specific. wich lights, which gauges, where youw ant them located. go section by section.

1. taillights.
2. trunk.
3.rear of passengers compartment.
4. front of passengers compartment
5. dash
6. firewall
7. engone
8. front of car

start with the basic routing of the harness. do not loom. use zipties every 3 inches. also dont cut anyt extra wires until the last thing. after the basics are routed, get power to the harness. then, wire up the starter and ignition switch circuits.

after that, i start at the steering column, and work my way out from there. the column controlls the ignition and starter, lighting system, etc. last thing i do is dome lights and radio, cause they are that simple. test every circuit as you go. do one at a time as well. as in let headlight, test. right. test. high beams. test. etc.

hoe that helps.

 

i guess im going with the painless route .. mainly because of the smaller fuse panel... its going to be a frustrating venture.. but im DOWN to get down.. wish me luck.. i'll keep updated... i was messing with brake line tuck all day today so no work on harness yet

 

dusterb, thanks for the informative post Good info to have here.

 

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