i have a 97 civic 4 door ex the speedometer is not working. The 1st thing i did was change the vss. the vss is getting ground but the blue with white wire is not getting power. i checked the cluster i checked all my fuse's and my# 31 fuse is not getting power i dont know what to do next i been on this for 3 weeks now. its the blue with white line wire that is not getting any power. its drivin me crazy i need help......

 

get a haynes book read the wire diagrams and figure out its routing then fix it

 

The BLK/YEL wire supplies voltage to the VSS. In contrast, the BLU/WHT wire sends speed signal pulses from the VSS to the ECU and speedo. You would only measure speed signal voltage pulses on the BLU/WHT wire if a front wheel were spun.

If fuse 31 had no power, the engine would not start. This fuse has nothing to do with the VSS or speedo. Instead, check fuse 15.

 

Im going thru the same crap right now...

The VSS and alternator are on the same circuit... I kept thinking it was the alternator for a while cuz I had battery issues...

But I did the alternator test and it charges the baterry fine until the circuit blows...

With everything hooked up right and checked the speedo actually works... UNTIL its required to send a signal for VTEC engagement... When it hits vtec... My speedo konks out... At this point, im praying its the VSS cuz this issue has been draggin on for a while now... Missed two track days already cuz the car wont run right...

But I hope that helps a lil bit... and hope you get yours fixed

 

fuse 15 is good test with the fuse tester and the power probe. its fuse 31 is the only one with no power, its like there is no power going to the fuse box for that fuse i got a new fuse box and the same thing.

 

thanks bro i hope you get your problem fixed too bro.........

 

i had to run a neg to the main relay for the fuse pump to turn on. i ran the neg to the green with yellow wire.

 

No power at Fuse 31:
Does the starter crank the engine when the key is in ON(III)? If not, check the starter switch at the top of the clutch pedal.
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Again, no power at fuse 31 and the non-working speedo are two separate problems.

 

YEAH THE CAR CRANKS.... AND THE CAR STARTS RIGHT UP ITS JUST MY SPEEDOMETER DOES NOT WORK I CHANGED THE CLUSTER AND STILL THE SAME.

 

have you cleaned the plug and speed sencor connecting points out? mine stops working some times all i do is pop it ou an clean the points and it all works fine

 

Bypassing the main relay and supplying power directly to the fuel pump is unsafe. You should try to fix the bad BLK/RED wire running between the starter cut relay and fuse 31.

As mentioned earlier, the BLK/YEL wire (not the BLU/WHT wire) at the VSS connector supplies power to the VSS. Do you measure battery voltage at this VSS connector pin with the key in ON(II)?

 

I DID CLEAN THE PLUG, AND CHANGED THE SPEED SENSOR.

 

I DIDN'T CHECK THE VOLTAGE BUT I DID CHECK IF NEG SIGNAL WAS GETTING TO THE VSS PLUG THERE WAS 2 NEG'S.

 

[QUOTE=RonJ@HT;39271950]Bypassing the main relay and supplying power directly to the fuel pump is unsafe. You should try to fix the bad BLK/RED wire running between the starter cut relay and fuse 31.

COULD THAT BE THE CAUSE OF THE MAIN RELAY NOT GETTING NEG??????

 

Please turn off your caps lock key.

If you don't have battery voltage at the BLK/YEL wire and fuse 15 is good and receiving power, then you have pinpointed your speedo problem to the BLK/YEL wire, which has an open (=is broken).

 

I don't know what you mean by "not getting neg". But if fuse 31 does not have power, then yes the main relay also won't get power at one of its terminals.

 

it did have neg voltage...

 

What was the voltage? Why are you calling it neg voltage?

 

i put my test light on the negative of the battery and i started checking the wires on the main relay and when i put the test light on the the green/yellow wire on the main relay the fuel pump turned on and thats when my car turned on.

 

Okay, you have two separate issues, so let's avoid confusing the two.

1) Fuel pump/main relay: Your test result immediately above suggests that either the GRN/YEL wire is bad or the ECU is bad. You should continuity test the GRN/YEL wire from the main relay connector to the ECU connector. Also test the respective pins in the main relay and ECU connectors for damage.

2) VSS/speedo: Do you measure battery voltage on the BLK/YEL wire in the VSS connector? If so, continuity test the BLU/WHT wire running between the VSS connector and cluster connector.

 

im going to work right now, i will do a continuity test in the morn.
thanks bro.

 

1. I checked the GRN/YEL wire from the main relay to the ecu it has no continuity.

2. i measured the battery voltage and it was good on the BLK/YEL wire on the VSS.
i did not check the BLU/WHT wire from the VSS to the cluster its too hot. I had to pick up my wife from work.

ok so the main relay GRN/YEL wire is not sending signal to the ecu. can i run my own wire to the ecu from the main relay to see if that gets the main relay working????????

 

Nice work so far. The GRN/YEL wire is broken somewhere. First try to locate the break in the wire. Start by carefully inspecting the connectors at each end of the wire and the wire near each connector. Then trace from there. If you don't have success, yes you can run a new wire and splice it into each connector. Use the same gauge wire as the original.

 

ok thanks for the walk through getting the GRN/YEL wire to work. now i checked the BLU/WHT its not getting any power. how is it that these 2 wires went bad it all happened when i took my msd 6al out.

 

The BLU/WHT wire will only have voltage pulses if you spin the wheels. Also check the wire for continuity between the VSS connector and the cluster connector.

Did you find the problem with the GRN/YEL wire and fix it?