The car 1995 acura integra
The motor 96 JDM B18b
The computer P75 usdm
The code #10 Intake Air Temperature Sensor

The story, when I bought this car it had a code 1 for oxygen sensor, a code 16 for fuel injectors, a code 10 for Intake are temperature sensor and code 43 for fuel supply.

all previous codes are gone. the only one left is 10. well the JDM intake manifold doesnt have a spot where the IAT sensor would normaly go. i guess in japan they dont use them.

well the problem i have is that the car will idle fine for bout 30 seconds at about 900 rpms and then will die down to the point where the car will almost stall out. and then it'll sputter for about 5 seconds, and then work itself back up 900 rpms and will continuely repeat the process. car sounds like its got high lobe cams. the car is running rich i smell a lot of unburned gas.

to my knowledge the AIT sensor is just a electric thermometer to assist the computer in chooseing which map to run depending on how hot or cold the air coming in is. so even though the sensor is not in the manifold and i have it plugged into the wiring harness it should still function the same way correct? it would just not be getting a accurate temperature reading.

it makes no difference weather the car is warm or cold, the same thing happens.

are there any other common problems that can cause the same syptoms and not through a code?

are the only remedies to this

1. switching to a usdm or aftermarket manifold?
2. switching to a jdm p75?

any input or help would be appreciated thanks!

 

get a p28 and chip it.

 

how does that fix my problem? i dont even have vtec?

 

Newer Integra's and Civic SI's have the IAT on the intake arm. You can make a hole on the intake and put the IAT there or maybe tap it into one of the vacuum lines on the manifold.

 

thanks i'll try that if cant figure anything else out, but your right the intake arm should work just as well

 

any other suggestions?

 

you dont need vtec to get a chip ecu..i think you can cross off the IAT sensor

 

bump i have the same code.

 

I have the same issue:
I did a 97 JDM B18b swap into my 94 EG hatch, with a JDM P7H ECU
The Only code I have is #10. Which is the IAT.
Here is the funny part, the motor being a 97 JDM does not have the spot on the intake Manifold for the IAT. however the engine harness I have is a Canada spec o
OBD2a harness which seems to have both styles of IAT plug in the harness.
Let me Explain. The older b18s USDM has the IAT on the manifold were as the newer 96+ JDM has the IAT on the intake arm. (Such as the cold air intake) but my harness is from a Canada spec Teg. and seems to have both. NOW because my motor is a obd2 I should use the intake arm location as that is what my motor came with but from others threads I read people seem to Extend the manifold location one to there intake arm and use that. So I'm Confused because the colors of the wires do not match the Manual Wiring diagrams. What should I do?

 

now don't hold me to this but i read you can bypass the IAT

see below-if this is wrong someone correct me...

bypass your IAT sensor.
So the IAT measures the temperature and retards the timing accordingly to avoid detonation. But it's so hot under there, sometimes it reads alot hotter than it actually is, so the ECU retards our timing. 57* is the ideal air temp for good combustion in the computers programming. That temperature causes NO timing retard, or just a minimal amount. Thats what we're looking for at all times.

How to do it: Go to Radio Shack and get a 4.7k ohm resistor, they come in a pack of about 5 for $0.49. Take one of the resistors and bend the arms over twice on both ends so that they are a little thicker, so they will hold in the plug better. Now remove your IAT plug from the bellows (just disconnect it at the clip plug). You will now have the female end of the plug in your hand and you will see that it has holes for a two prong conection. This is where you insert the resistor. Push the resistor in so it sits flush on the plug. Now wrap the female end of the plug with the resistor in it with some electrical tape. Cut off the extra tape that will be hanging off the end that is going back into the male end of the plug. Now put the plug back where it came from, don't push it in to far because you may mess up the male ends of the IAT. Now just wrap the out side of the plug with tape again so that there is a good seal on it, and it won't fall out.

Thats it, you're done!

You will now be getting a reading of 52 degrees from your IAT. Unfortunetly there are no resistors that with cause a 57* reading. 52* is close enough to avoid retarded timing.