i have a fully built b18 with a fully built gsr head. (p&p, 5 angle valve job, port match IM)

my priority is to get the thing running first and it will be a turbo motor in about 9 months.

$ for $ what is better for the next 9 months or so after i get it running.

the goal is to save as much money as possible so i can build my turbo setup.

 

a tune, because u will most likely blow it up before even turboing it. my 2 cent

 

WTF!?

LETS GET AN ANSWER RELATED TO MY POST

im not going to blow up my motor because its FULLY BUILT and im going to be making sub 250whp before i turbo it.

 

lol what? fully built for boost or fully built NA?

if u are going to go boost why are u even bothered about a ebay header....save u money for s300 or something.

 

He made a good point. did you tune it? If not, then do that first. Are you implying that "FULLY BUILT" motors are bullet proof and will not blow up? What is your setup?

 

that is perfectly related to your post. besides, 250whp before? is this a high compression turbo setup or am i missing something, lol...

 

fully built for turbo.

i already have a basic tune and the engines not going to blow up making 200-250 horse when i have built it for 600+ (im not goin to make that much but it will sure *** hell take it)

I DONT HAVE ANY SORT OF EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR HEADER RIGHT NOW. thats y i am wonder if its more beneficial to buy ebay headers or stockers for now. i need somthing on it so i can drive it until i have the money for a turbo setup

with a port and polish, 5 angle valve job, port matched IM, and a full vitara valvetrain i thought that maybe a stock manifold would choke the engine too much.

 

You're not understanding what were trying to tell you. A motor built to handle 10349758234698 horsepower can blow because of bad/no tune. Whether it be bad a/f ratio or something else.

And if you've spent allllll this money building the motor why don't you spend a little more and buy a nice header.

250hp BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I want to see dyno.

 

i dont understand how ur makin almost 250 hp without turbo if u built it for boost that mean u have a lower compression i would think can u post a dyno please shut me up

 

MY CARS NOT GOING TO BLOW UP!!!!!!!

I ALREADY HAVE A BASIC TUNE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i didnt say i was making 250 hp. i said "sub 250" meaning i dont know what im making but i know its definatly no more than 250.

i dont want to spend the money on a nice header. im trying to save money. i just need something to get me by for now.

 

get a throw-away oe manifold.
when you're done with it in 9 +/- months, it'll still be worth the same (and look the same).
i'm not sure why there's confusion about your original question.

g/l.

 

You already have the basic tune, good; just get a stock manifold til you get the turbo setup on it. I doubt you'll be trying to set any land speed records with an engine built for a turbo, without the turbo, right ?

 

help me here im confuse, u state,
"$ for $ what is better for the next 9 months or so after i get it running", then he says
"I DONT HAVE ANY SORT OF EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR HEADER RIGHT NOW. thats y i am wonder if its more beneficial to buy ebay headers or stockers for now. i need somthing on it so i can drive it until i have the money for a turbo setup,
" and then he also says "I ALREADY HAVE A BASIC TUNE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

How could u already have a basic tune if u have no sort of "EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR HEADER"? what u guys tune it without a "EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR HEADER" lol??

 

a basic tune or "basemap" is usually only there to get you to a dyno since your engine is no longer stock and this map was NOT tuned for your specific setup.

Also please understand that with lower compression vitara pistons and probably turbo cams, your engine is most likely to put out LESS hp than a stock motor would. Once turbo'ed it will be a "safer" setup than a stock GSR but for the time being it's probably less optimal.

I'd run a stock header since you'll know it won't crack and will probably be cheaper than an ebay one.

Get your engine tuned right away even if it's N/A for 9 months or you risk hurting it or blowing it up on this basemap before you even go turbo.

 

SUB 250...LMAO...My car makes SUB 1000. Good ****!

 

Buy whatever is cheaper to buy and install. Save $$. If your budget is that tight, I fear for the life of your "600 WHP" turbo motor. Do not beat on it until you have your turbo installed and tuned.

 

i wouldnt even drive to the dyno on a "basemap". just use a stock manifold. and your engine right now would prob struggle to **** out 100 horses right now....thats if you built it for "600hp"
and just because you have a "fully built b18" doesnt mean it cant blow up, it can and will if its not tuned correctly.

 

ok...some people are starting to understand me and im getting some answers im looking for.

 

OP..you need to understand where these guys are coming from. saying you made sub 250 all motor(with an engine built for turbo) would be a high comp. large n/a cam engine with a great tune. most all motor engines that are breaking 200whp are built only for all motor and even if the parts used could handle 600whp it would most likely grenade itself at some point based solely on the compression + turbo. now to your original question...sorry but i find it very trivial, just buy whatevers cheapest cause its gonna be dumped in 9 months for a turbo manifold. or if you can, buy that header that gave you sub 250 numbers

 

as someone else mentioned, his "basic tune" and the fact that he wants to drive it around until he can install the turbo sounds like a blown engine waiting to happen..
I'm not trying to be a dick or break ***** either..

 

i never said i made 250 hp.

i found the answer i was looking for from a few people... 'jus buy whats cheapest.'

I FOUND MY ANSWER! NOW GET OFF MY ***** ABOUT A BLOWN ENGINE!

 

Just a suggestion, so these guys won't have to say "I told you so" if it does blow, maybe get it tuned good enough for basic driving. Like, just get it on the dyno long enough to make sure bad things aren't/won't be happening inside the motor. Basemaps really are just something to get the motor started so the tuner can start with the adjustments. If you've already had this done, good, just say so, but I wouldn't drive on a basemap, it won't work good.

 

click, click BOOM

 

thank you 96halx...i will take your guys advice and get a tune. i jus wasnt looking for this whole thing to change direction. i jus wanted an answer of ebay vs stock.


thanks

 

there sure are a lot of "fully builts" in this thread. pretty much a fully built thread. lots of H-beam replies, blueprinted and balanced quotes, 5-angle avatars, and tuned signatures.